Changing fork oil - simple method?

Discussion in '6th Generation 2002-2013' started by Surlycamera, Jun 28, 2014.

  1. Surlycamera

    Surlycamera New Member

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    The procedure in the shop manual includes all the service for the forks. I just want to change the oil. Does anyone know of a procedure that does not involve removing the forks and completely disassembling them? I got new tires and I'd like to do this while the wheels are off. If the right way is to do as the manual says then so be it but it seems like an all day job. I'm used to the old days with remove the caps, remove the drain screws, pump the forks (try not to barf from the smell of the fish oil), replace the drain screws, fill with oil, check the level, replace the caps. Of course, then clean up the oil that shot across the shop because you underestimated how far it would shoot out the forks sideways. I digress....

    Anyway, do I have to pull the guts out to change the oil?

    Thanks,
    Matt
     
  2. FJ12rydertoo

    FJ12rydertoo Member

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    You don't have to pull the guts, but you really should pull the forks. Then you can drain and flush the gook out. If you try to siphon the oil out you may not get all the nasty stuff out.

    Yeah, I can remember cleaning fork oil off the floor ten feet away due to a miscalculation. LOL
     
  3. OOTV

    OOTV Insider

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    You don't have to pull the forks off to change the oil, but you do need to lift the front of the bike somehow without lifting from under the fork legs. I have a ratchet tie down and eye hooks attached to the rafters in my garage ceiling for this sort of thing. Once you raise the front end grab a bucket or catch basin and place it under one of the forks and remove the hex bolt at the bottom of the fork tube. This of course means that the front wheel and axle have already been removed. Before you do start taking things apart, you might want to pick up some new bolts and crush washers as these bolts have been known to strip out and require drilling the heads off in order to remove them! (I speak from experience)

    Once the bottom bolt has been removed oil should start to flow out but will not drain that well until you remove the top cap, which basically will allow the air to replace the oil and allow it to drain better/faster. I typically do one fork leg at a time and remove the innards in one piece and clean them with contact cleaner, as well as spray the insides of the tubes and let them drain completely.

    After the cleaning is all done, the trick is now getting things back together and the oil level set, which can be tricky but it can be done with some finesse and patience. Typically when replacing the oil in forks it is done by measuring the oil height in the tube when it's fully collapsed and without the spring installed, which is more difficult when still on the bike. If I am not mistaken the standard oil level is 130mm for the top of the tube, but when at an angle, you would use 110mm and the measurement taken at the inside edge of the tube that is closest to the gas tank. You can always go by fluid measurement but there is a chance of being off a little but it should be that far off to make a difference, but that's my opinion. That being said, going the extra few steps to remove the fork really isn't that big of a deal and if you're going to replace the forks seals, taking the forks off the bike is the only way to go IMO

    I hope this makes sense and is useful to you.

    Cheers!
     
  4. FJ12rydertoo

    FJ12rydertoo Member

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    Those bolts can also sometimes be a pain to break loose without an impact wrench. It's almost easier to remove the forks entirely rather than try to take that bolt out. Sometimes they loosen right up, but it can turn into a real nightmare if they don't, or if you round the head.

    If you decide to remove the bolt be sure to leave the forks assembled with the springs providing downward pressure. That will help. Absolutely use an impact wrench if you have one.
     
  5. Surlycamera

    Surlycamera New Member

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    O.K., all that makes sense. I have experienced the bolt on the bottom spinning before. Definitely will borrow an impact for that and having the spring pressure does help. My fork seals don't show any signs that they need to be replaced so that's the main reason I didn't want to take them completely apart. But...to do it right and get them clean I might as well just pull it all apart and follow the book. I have a stand for the front that supports the bike under the head tube so you can take off the wheel and do brakes etc. so I can take the forks off with out having to worry about it falling. I don't know how I got along without it.
    Very good advice gents, thank you.
     
  6. bitterpil

    bitterpil New Member

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    I pull the forks to change the oil. Don't find it to be an issue. There is a thread on VFRD about doing it without removing forks. I don't trust the measure and pour method.

    Just an oil change it nothing. 1 hour maybe. Get the motion pro fork oil tool $12 there is a knock off at cycle gear for something like $15. Make the job easy peasy.

    Edit: Measure in a cup and pour
     
    Last edited: Jun 29, 2014
  7. FJ12rydertoo

    FJ12rydertoo Member

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    What is it about the "measure and pour" that you don't like? Or are you talking about using a measuring cup instead of a tape measure?
     
  8. bitterpil

    bitterpil New Member

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    Measuring cup. All of the "easy" ways I have seen use a measuring cup which isn't the correct way. The right way is a tape measure or like I mentioned the motion pro type tool. It has a ridged tube with measurements on it. Pour in fluid. Suck out the overage. Boom! Done.

    Anyway what I have found is that most short cuts are short in quality. Which is why I pull the forks. Since I also change my own tires and such I just do it at one of the tire change intervals. It also allows me to inspect brake pads and change them if needed. Re torque bolts etc.
     
  9. sunofwolf

    sunofwolf New Member

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    Much simpler method-just pay $65 to have a shop do it:soap:
     
  10. FJ12rydertoo

    FJ12rydertoo Member

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    And hope they did it right? No thanks, I'll do it myself and know that it's right.
     
    VFRIRL likes this.
  11. ridervfr

    ridervfr Member

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    I wouldnt go near the bottom bolt on those fork legs unless I was doing fork seals, I have drain bolts on mine, but still choose to take one fork leg off at a time if I want to do a fluid swap. I measure from the top of the leg fully compressed with the spring oot too. I think fork level oil I went with was 125 mm, have a tool for it along with a bendy flash light, takes some time and patience to get it right. The latest fork legs I did were clean as a whistle inside compared to my other unit that looked like it was in a whales intestine and after two cans of brake cleaner was good to go. :vtr2:
     
  12. OOTV

    OOTV Insider

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    It's funny some forks have the drain bolt and others don't, it makes you wonder why the got rid of them. Two cans of cleaner?! Damn, what was in them tubes? Or how long was the oil left in there?
     
  13. OOTV

    OOTV Insider

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    Better yet, since the OP is in Indiana, just take the forks over to Jamie Daugherty and have them done up "proper" like!
     
  14. ridervfr

    ridervfr Member

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    Well, as much as a maintenance freak as I am, I can't see those fork legs not getting regular oil changes. I used the drain bolt method of getting rid of the old oil I think too, but I my memory is foggy as I burned oot lots of brain cells :hippie: I may have taken them oot of their trees and done it the proper way too with the springs oot and fully compressed but am unsure. As far as the manufacturers go, they hear a symphony of birds all day, it goes like this "CHEAP CHEAP CHEAP CHEAP." drain bolts on fork legs cost money, so why put them on there.

    I can tell you this though, the forks were 20 years old and were fine until I decided to use some 5 weight Honda fork oil, I instantly was unhappy with the ride and the seals ended up weeping. So, upon disassembly when I impacted off the bottom bolt and took the entire rig apart, I discovered a muggy mess in the bottoms of both fork legs. Took two cans of cleaner to blast that chit oot of there. Its almost a one owner bike that looks like it has 20,000 miles instead of 80,000 believe me, no chips or rust on those legs either. This latest one I got, I had to dress the fork stanchions with sand paper and a file, it took more time than the actually seal replacement. Cheers :thumbsup:
     
  15. thethaw

    thethaw New Member

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    I'm doing the simple way tomorrow ....with forks on....10w is manuel factory standard...18.4 US fluid ounces.....that's whats going in...
     
  16. FJ12rydertoo

    FJ12rydertoo Member

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    What is the simple way? Not snarky, just wondering. Siphoning out the old?
     
  17. Surlycamera

    Surlycamera New Member

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    Wow, I didn't realize there was anymore content here. So a follow up to what I did...



    I put the wheels on and forgot about the forks.


    O.K., I'm half kidding. I did just put it back together without touching the forks but only because I need to spend a little time and do it right. At the time I posted I was in the middle of one of those "vacations" where you spend the entire week fixing stuff around the house. Anyway, I didn't want the bike apart waiting on seals and a tool while fixing plumbing.:frusty:

    I have a list of other maintenance stuff I need to address on the scoot as well. But the wife and kids kind of like the toilets to flush and stuff. I say they are just spoiled.


    Thanks much everyone, and BTW I have a spare shock in the garage I've been meaning to send to Jamie Daugherty! I never realized he was so close.
     
  18. JimHanus

    JimHanus New Member

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    Has anyone experimented with different fork oil weight?
     
  19. OOTV

    OOTV Insider

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    If using the stock valving experimenting with different oil weight is probably fine, however if your forks have been revalved and re-sprung, the tuner usually recommends a specific viscosity. When I spoke with Jamie about what to use on the upgrades he did for me, he said he recommends using 5W Honda Pro Oils for all his upgrades. I assume the viscosity is part of the calculations he uses when determining what shims/spring rates he picks for your particular setup.
     
  20. JimHanus

    JimHanus New Member

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    OK, I'm in trouble. First fork bolt came out and back in OK. Second one was a total bit*h to get out. Now trying to reassemble I can't get enough torque on the drain bolt to get it to seal. The inside piece in the damper rod just spins. Any suggestions? I tried reassembling with the spring in place to put pressure on it but it doesn't make any difference. I'm at about the 4 hour mark and ready to give up. Any suggestions would be appreciated.

    Jim
     
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