engine dies with quick throttle blip

I've found my 03s engine just cuts out if i blip the throttle quickly. Did it to me twice yesterday.

Anyone else experience this? Is there a fix or do i just need to roll on slower. It only seems to happen during downshifts.:frown:

likely this is a repost, but my search attempts yielded no suitable results. so link up if you know where this was already discussed.

 

lootyman,

This probably won't quite answer your question but i'll reply anyway. My 04 has died a few times on me when I have revved out in 1st gear within the first mile or less of a ride. Say I took off from a stop sign and went up to 40 mph in 1st quickly then pull the clutch lever in and coast because i'm comming up to another stop sign and the engine will die almost as soon as I pull the clutch in. Wish I had a answer. I asked the dealer where I purchased the bike and they didnt seem to know I'll stop now that ive written a long story, hope you find out whats up

 

My 05 also did this a few time when it was new, and usually only when it wasn't fully warmed up. And if I remember correctly, the VTEC engine isn't supposed to be run hard until it's fully warmed up, and I never rev mine past 5K or so until the temp is at least 170 degrees.

I think another contributing factor is that the factory fueling map is set fairly lean below 3K or so, so when you snap the throttle closed during a shift or when stopping, then the engine has a hard time settling into a idle and therefore stumbles or completely dies. I've found this problem is also more prone to happen when the engine is cold.

A few things to consider or try...

Try adjusting most of the cable slack out of the throttle. I only have about 1/8" slack, and believe it or not this helps because the throttle doesn't completely close unless you move it closed or take your hand off the grip. Also, many people have found that balancing the starter valves helps with this problem, and this also helps eliminate some of the lower rpm throttle snatchiness. Going with a higher pressure Turbo City fuel regulator helps with the idle problem and low rpm snatchiness, and others have found that running a Power Commander with a richer map in the bottom end helps with the lower rpm problem areas.

Lastly, one of the easiest fixes for the dying problem is to simply raise the idle from 1200 to 1300. Also, the factory tach is known to be inaccurate, so don't assume that it's right. I know I've hooked up an inductive tach on my bike, and the factory tach is off by about 100 too high. So I think it's safe to assume that if you think it's at 1200, then it's probably more like 1100. First try cranking the idle up a little and see if that helps...

 

It's pretty much common sense not to work any engine too hard until it has warmed up. For my 2000, that will be as soon as it will idle at ~1200rpm.

 

Thanks NVR2L8 for a very helpful post. Fuel regulator sounds good to me. I've grown quite used to the throttle slack and find it be extremely functional (i.e. releasing brakes and preparing for on-throttle without adjusting grip).

As for warming up, this happened to me at the end of an hour long ride:third: So, THAT'S not it

If the fuel reg also helps with 'snatchiness' that's how i'll go (pending cost, of course)

 

Give Tom a call at http://www.turbocity.com (714-639-4933)

In my opinion I think it's best to talk to him, so he can decide if your VFR can use the standard version he is selling for your particular model/year, or if he needs to modify a regulator to provide a little more pressure if you have a lot of engine mods. Oh yea, the cost is just under $100 which doesn't include shipping.

 

i have been looking for some of this information for more than a few years! tried everything except the presure regulator. thanks for the info, and the link.

 

If this were carbs, i'd suggest opening the idle mixture screw about 1 turn or trying the next larger pilot jet, but since injection is supposed to be better than carbs (???) you'll need to find out electronically how to richen up your fueling profile to fix the problem in a digital manner.

 

I smell some discontent with the FI generation here...just a sixth sense I gots. Ice-Hunch-Inn :smile: now you can say it in German!

 

1st did it to me after a long 2 hour ride (bike was a month old), After its 1st service, mechanic removed the slack in the throttle cable & also lowered the idle (to about 1200 RPM). So it happened a few more times & so I readjusted the idle to around 1350 RPM. I went on to a few forums & found this problem is common. Since it only does it every now & never had problems with it under throttle, I just hit the starter button & away I go. I have read though that this can happen to some bikes while cruising at speed (just cuts out). I'm no mechanic, but I've always considered it to be one of the gremlins you get with a bike with fuel injection, cat & O2 sensors.