first timer question on fuel cutoff relay wiring 97 vfr750

hey everyone, hoping someone can help. I ust purchased a vfr and the previous idiot owner removed the contacts from the connector going to the fuel cutoff relay. have no idea why. but of course, the fuel pump does not work because of this. I have the relay but don't know what wires go to what connectors.
could someone take a look and tell me what color goes to what pin on the relay? the wire colors i have are red with yellow stripe, black and black with blue stripe. maybe you could list the colors starting from the key in the connector, next middle then the last wire. Reallly appreciate your help.!!!!

 

Top/ left to right - Bl, R/Y, Bl/Bu.

 

Thank you!

for taking the time and responding so quickly. very much appreciated!arty2:

 

Forget about that unnecessary relay !! by connecting the black and blue/black wires together, power is sent directly to the fuel pump. The PO delt with a failed pump relay just like that......

deleting the relay will result in MUCH faster, easier starting--especially after a few days of non-riding--with less battery drain and starter motor wear.

 

thanks for the suggestion. i will give that a try, but won't that leave the pump running all the time?

 

Sorry Squirrel, but I have to disagree with you this time. It is a fine temporary fix for when you are out on the road, but should not be used as a permanent repair.

The fuel cutoff relay is a safety device. Most safety devices are incorporated only after someone has been killed or injured without it in place. I'm sure there are many riders who wish the clutch and sidestand switches were invented before they had their brainfarts.

This relay will stop the fuel pump when there is no spark from the #4 coil. If the bike is involved in a mishap, do you really want the pump to continue supplying fuel, even though the bike is not running, until someone is able to turn the ignition off? Who knows how many people were BBQ'd, before this device was designed.

There is a built in timer that allows the pump to prime the sytem when the ignition is first turned on. This is identified by the fuel light, on the cluster, momentarily lighting up during start up.

So, I don't really understand why you would want to make this a permanent solution.

 

i do respect your moralistic, safety-is-everything response, just what i'd expect from a fine, responsible Canadian, but i've had too many relay failures over 26 years and delete the relay on all my Hawks and VFRs and never had a problem. just need to flick the ignition key to stop the pump. If a bike does tip over, often the engine will continue running for a bit, so the relay won't stop all possible disasters. Maybe lawyers rather than engineers mandated that relay ?? You can't deny that it makes starting easier and quicker if the bike has sat for a week or more, eh ??

 

I'm afraid that I can deny the starting easier notion, as far as carbureted bikes go. The purpose of the fuel pump is to keep the float bowl full. While the engine is not running, the float will not allow any more fuel into the bowl, as it has no fuel leaving it. The ammount of fuel in the bowl is usually enough to keep the bike running for several minutes, so adding more fuel before start up would make no difference, unless your drain screws are leaking. The purpose of the timed operation at the initial turn of the key, is part diagnostic (lets you know the pump is functioning via the fuel light) and priming of the supply line.

If the bike is fuel injected and the system had a leak, that did not maintain pressure properly, then having the pump on would be of benefit.

As for the engine running after the tip over. They added the bank angle sensor to fix that. The things these lawyers come up with to keep us crazy bikers alive, is just amazing. :wink:

 

I'm referring to carbed bikes only. Fuel in the float bowls evaporates every day, more in warmer climates, and can get so low after a month or more of storage that sometimes the battery wll drain before it fills the float bowls cuz, with a working pump relay, battery needs to power the the starter motor too for as long as it takes to fill carbs. Sans relay, carbs fill quicker without battery drain.

 

Wow Squirrel, you're really stretching this out to keep yourself convinced. It started with a few days, went to a week or more, and now you're up to a month or more.

If the bowls were empty, the pump would still be running the whole time the starter was, either way, if you started cranking right away.

When I take the bike out of winter hibernation, I prefer that there is no fuel in the carbs right away, so that the oil can get splashed around before it fires up. :tongue: As long as the battery is good and fully charged it shouldn't be a problem. One just has to remember not to run the starter too long, so it doesn't overheat. Although I have never had a problem with this method yet.

Knock on wood.

op2:

 

Whatever........i'll keep my bikes going without that relay cuz i know it works best for me.

You'll see a retraction and apology posted from the local burn unit if and when...........

 

LMAO

I sure hope you never have to write it.

So, are you more confused than ever there Woody?

 

So, guys, that is a lot of banter. my philosophy is I like to keep things stock.
if they put it in there, it is there for a good reason.
The reason I asked the question is the previous owner pulled the wires from the connector.
I found that I had the relay but when I attached the wires, the fuel pump still did not work. I reviewed the rest of the electrics and found the relay to be bad, probably the reason why they did the rewiring. I plan on bringing the bike to original condition.
really appreciate the help. will be ordering a used relay from ebay shortly then installing.
thanks again for your suggestions. much appreciated.

 

hey guys, finally got the used relay. funny thing is, I did resistance measurements on all three posts in all directions and get absolutly no resistance values like the one I have. I plugged it in and does not turn on the pump either.
this gives me the thought that either the replacement is also no good or there is another problem in the bike's wiring i am not aware of. I do get power on the two leads when it is running and on one lead when the key is just on, so this would indicate to me that the wiring is ok. does anyone know of what resistance values i should see when using an ohmmeter on the relay itself.....the saga continues.

 

I'm not sure what the values are, but this is not a typical relay. It is a cutoff relay that works similar to a digital and gate, where you need two highs to get a high.

Two questions; does the fuel light come on when you first turn on the key, and;

does the pump run if you jump the black and black/blue wires?

 

Yes, the light comes on and if I jump th wires, the pump comes on also.

 

Ok, that's a good start. The only other wire (R/Y) might not be sending the voltage from the #4 igniter.

 

You bought a used, fried relay. Like Squirrel said just jump the wires and chuck the fuel relay or dig deep in them pockets and buy a new one.
I jumped and chucked my relay on Squirrel's suggestion on my second bike and have not looked back since.
Corrected a lot of fuel delivery problems I was having with that bike.

 

OH, but Dukie, do you have any idea how painful and disabling third-degree burns can be, huh ?? LOLOL !! "Safety First" isn't just Canada's national motto !!

Firebird should keep a relay hooked up lest he or his bike turn into one, and is a Karazy suggestion..:crazy:

 

Camera captures bystanders rescuing man trapped under burning car | ksl.com

It is actually the bike that is burning.

I suspect he also didn't believe in ATGATT or helmets either. Some people have to learn the hard way, or no way at all.