Flush turnsignals on VF750F? Is this doable?

Discussion in '1st & 2nd Generation 1983-1989' started by Outlawz24, May 12, 2010.

  1. Outlawz24

    Outlawz24 New Member

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    Ok...a couple years ago i had some LP turnsignals installed on my bike and the way the idiot at the shop put them on the front the forks snagged the wires and ripped them out of one of the signals causing a short and blowing the fuse all the lights on it except for headlight.. Now originally i had went with some of the LP cf finish plastic ones but the problem was they got hot and melted while the bike was just sitting in one spot and idling. Apparently our bikes throw a lil more voltage at the bulbs causing them to get hot enough to melt the housing. I want to run newer flush mount signals to eliminate the brackets under the nose of the bike but i do not want a repeat of the melting problem caused by the running lights. Is there any lights out there that will not melt from this or is there any way to prevent the bulbs from getting that hot? Also...will LED signals work on our bikes with out issues like fast blinking or anything?
     
  2. Fender13Bender

    Fender13Bender New Member

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  3. slowbird

    slowbird Member

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    These things (at least in my opinion) are never bright enough.
     
  4. Hawkrider

    Hawkrider New Member

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    You have a couple of options here.

    The first option, find a 3-wire incandescent signal kit that will allow you to use running lights. Then use a lower wattage bulb and a flash equalizer to slow your blink rate. This will cut down on the heat generated at the signal lens. Flash equalizers are common and relatively inexpensive. A google search should yield more results than you can read through in one sitting.

    Second option, and I have done this on a couple of my sportbikes (but not the VF), is to drop the idea of using flush mounts since honestly they suck as far as visibiility goes. Get some good LED stalk signals (like Shock Racing HERE) and use the load equalizer AND a running light kit. This will adapt your 3-wire stock harness to a 2-wire LED signal. Now, this option is definitely not the least expensive route, as now you're buying three things, and generally speaking the running light kit is not cheap. But it's definitely the most trick looking (to me anyway), brightest, and most reliable (no blown bulbs).
     

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