Front brakes dragging

Discussion in '5th Generation 1998-2001' started by Darth Vader, Aug 1, 2019.

  1. Darth Vader

    Darth Vader New Member

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    I got told my front brakes are binding by the mot tester , now im paranoid. I delinked using firestorm ( superhawk ) fork lowers, calipers and m/c and was very happy how it all turned out but now i can only get 1/2 to 3/4 of a turn with a spin . 1 full turn if i go for it.
    Went for a ride and only used my back brake to stop and the rotors felt quite warm ( not hot ) calipers cold to touch. Ive overhauled the calipers using new seals and the pistons are like new. M/c got a new seal kit. Got new chinese rotors and brake lever . Ebc sintered pads.
    I would like the front to spin like the back does , whats wrong ?
     
  2. jfrahm

    jfrahm New Member

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    First, scribble on the rotors with a sharpie and then ride a short distance to see if they are aligned and engaging evenly.
    If this is not too far off I'd bed the brakes in HARD and see if things improve.
     
  3. bk94si

    bk94si Member

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    The return in the master could be clogged.
     
  4. Darth Vader

    Darth Vader New Member

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    I like this idea ,will try that this weekend thanks
    M/c new seal kit and the return hole clear so im confident its not this
     
  5. Captain 80s

    Captain 80s Member

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    The caliper seals are slightly "dished" and need to be installed in the correct orientation. The dishing helps retract the pistons slightly when the brakes are released. Perhaps you installed some/all of them backwards?
     
  6. Darth Vader

    Darth Vader New Member

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    I had a good look at the seals as ive heard this but mine are square ?
    I put them in both ways and it didnt seem to make any difference
     
  7. Captain 80s

    Captain 80s Member

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    It's barely discernible on the brakes I deal with (newest brakes I have are mid-90s CBR/VFR), but the seals are not symmetrical. A look in the Factory Service Manual for your bike will tell you.
     
  8. Diving Pete

    Diving Pete Member

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    Are you sure that your rotors are flat ?

    The chinese discs are generally regarded as not good. I'd be suspecting your discs.
     
  9. Darth Vader

    Darth Vader New Member

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    I took off the left hand caliper , jacked the front up and the wheel spins nice and free so making progress. Over the weekend ill split the caliper and have a good look at the seals.
    I know there not honda quality but they seem good.
     
  10. Terry Smith

    Terry Smith Member

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    I checked the VTR1000F manual; there is no mention of a specific orientation direction for the caliper seals.
    upload_2019-8-3_16-37-46.png
     
  11. Darth Vader

    Darth Vader New Member

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    Thanks for that , saved me a job
     
  12. Diving Pete

    Diving Pete Member

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    Ignore the calipers at present.
    Pull them both off & mount a gauge to ck the discs are at least parallel
     
  13. Darth Vader

    Darth Vader New Member

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    Not got a gauge , is there another way to check?
    Looks spot on to the mk1 eyeball
     
  14. Diving Pete

    Diving Pete Member

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    pick a fixed point on the forks, run a bolt to the disc to it BARELY touches (you need to be able to rotate the wheel). So if the resistance changes - Do on both sides - if it stays the same then you probably have this:
     
  15. Darth Vader

    Darth Vader New Member

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    The bolt thing is genius I'll get both calipers off and try it.
    Mine is the same as the video but id say a little bit more dragging.

    Plan of attack over the next few days is to check rotors, pump pistons out and push em back in x10 to check for sticking pistons then do the sharpie trick and bed them in Hard !
    If that fails i need a plan B
    Thankyou for everyones suggestions , VFRWorld forever !!
     
  16. Diving Pete

    Diving Pete Member

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    On the 4 sets of calipers I've totally rebuilt this year I have polished ALL of the pistons. I use autosol metal polish You will be amazed at the difference it makes. Also I use red rubber lube on the seals. Very happy with it.
     
  17. Darth Vader

    Darth Vader New Member

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    Had a day on this and have sorted it.
    Got the calipers off and jacked the front up and using blutac stuck a bolt on the fork leg so it just touched the disc and span it. The disc ran true on the left so repeated on the right and same so my discs are good.
    Pumped out the pistons one caliper at a time starting with the left and one big piston was not retracting. Tried to push it with my thumb but it wasnt moving. So out with the pipe grips and in out many times got it freed off . Did this on all the pistons on both calipers and mounted them hoping for the best and now no more dragging brakes.
    Mine are now like the video Diving Pete posted so am happy with that.
    Wheeling round the garage is significantly easier so job done. Its amazing how one stubborn piston can cause so many problems.
    Thankyou to everybody who offered an opinion. VFRWORLD forever
     
    Jim5th Gen and warewolf like this.
  18. Dainius_M

    Dainius_M New Member

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    Done everything, still dragging front pads. Any solutions?
     
  19. gips

    gips New Member

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    Replied on the other thread with a possible solution, but just remembered something that i noticed, when i bought my brake pads. There are 4 types of Pads that can fit the caliper. The difference is around 1mm each model. You need the thinnest ones, 7.5mm or 7.2mm depending on the manufacturer, altho i am almost positive a 8.3mm will also fit, not so sure about 8.5mm again depending on manufacturer. There are 2 more models 9.3mm and 10.3mm. All of those fit , but when you try to put the disk, it will go in very difficult, or not at all depending on the caliper thickness. Check your pads thickness, for this model its specified 7.5mm.
     
  20. Dainius_M

    Dainius_M New Member

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    It not true oem pads are 8,1mm without plate, with plate are 8,6mm. Mine OEM Nissin.
     

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