Handlebar risers

So seemingly I got old overnight so to speak this year. Riding the VFR is out of the question on longer rides apparently. Popping ibuprofen before helps the back, but only temporarily now. Just a ride down to Gingerman track yesterday, eating more ibu there, the ride back was intolerable.
Would putting the 1 1/4" risers help to a great degree? I have the seat on the up position due to a hip pointer with legs cramped in stock position.
Any rides to the 555 or Dragon on it are not happening from here on. May have to sell. 2014 dx with luggage, front and rear rollable stands, and big cortech rear pack

 

Not sure if this is a for sale post or a handlebar post. I can tell you that hips can be stretched with great results. I never used to have that either. lol And bars are highly personal. I spent a few hunted miles on my little CB-1 yesterday with rearsets and lowered bars. It is fine as long as I'm moving body position. When droning, it is pretty challenging.

 

I have heard of guys having success using the 1.25" risers from Motopumps. I have the 0.5" risers from them and they do help.

 

I bought a piece of alum stock 1.25 by 1.5 inches and made my own. < $16.

 

Photos?

 

The 1.5 dimension fits down snug between the fork tube and the little rising "lip" of the handlebar.
Stock cut to a 2.5" length matches the width of the handlebar.
Using a couple existing 8mm bolts, cut the heads off and grind an end to a point to form an imprecise transfer bolt. Threading this down in the hole leaving just the tip exposed, position the block and tap down with a small hammer to make an impression for your drill to follow.
You really need a drill press for this project.
While the threads do pass through the bar, the threads in my case had to be "chased" with a tap to clean them up(following with air to blow out chips)
Threads of the transfer bolts have to be clean also, as you don't have much to grasp from above as you wind it down.
The second one goes much faster, as you are just duplicating the position, no need for the transfer process.
Used a 9mm equivalent bit for the holes