IDLE Goes wild after heat up

As soon as the engine gets hot the idle goes up allot. Any ideas? Otherwise everything works perfect.

Kirk

 

carbs??? I would say vacum leak.

 

das boots

I second that!Does not take much damage to the boots to mess up a VFR.

 

Have you tried fiddling with the idle speed adjusting screw ??

Start there.

It's normal for idle speed to increase after oil is warmed up.

 

prolly vacuum leak. I'm pretty sure that's an issue I'm havin too

 

I can't find that in shop manual......:crazyil temperature adjusts idle that is just awesome, ohh put slick50 in there guaranteed to drop idle by 500rpm's.. now then zmax will help adjust tire pressure ....duralube helps with brake fade....stp helps headshake..and the new belray chain lube you guessed it adjusts your chain as you ride.. Isn't technology a wonderful thing...:thumbsup::thumbsup:

 

Somebody shoot that idiot, please !!!

He hasn't owned many bikes.....


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Pontiac, feel each of your exhaust headers about 30 seconds after starting. Is one cold, others hot??

 

I've owned 14 bikes......:thumbsup:and oil temperature has nothing to do with idle, you burnout, drug addict, pathetic, piece of human shit !!:smokin::mullet:telling someone to shoot me is not cool, but hell someone set this drug addict delusional hippie on fire....ok we're even; nowthen when the bike warms up asshole, the carbs warm up with the engine therefore the air is not as dense ...hense the idle screw(air screw) you rat .as bike warms up it gets leaner.. nowthen you are the authority of all bike knowledge so please explain why the oil temperature raises the idle????oil run through the carbs? in fact as the bike warms up the idle should drop.I am looking forward to your response, but as I know red diaper dooper babies like you will only state a sentence becuase you have no information........ get out of the basement and help out mom with the dishes, she deseveres the help, haveing a looser of a son like you to deal with....just saying

 

Engine uses power to pump cold, dense oil throughout engine; as engine warms and thins the oil, pumping is easier, there is less oil drag and idle creeps up......got it ??

This is on any carbed bike, but maybe FI totally compensates for this effect and maintains constant idle speed hot or cold.

Remember the originator of this thread has a carbed bike.

>>>>>>>>>>>

dd:Your intensely personal and deliberately insulting outbursts have lowered the level of discourse on this website from a college debating society to a cage fight.

 

If your idle raises when warm/hot one of two things are common causes. Either a vacuum leak at the boots or you need to re-adjust your pilot screws. It is a fuel glitch.

 

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Vaccum leak around a loose boot, maybe.

Fuel screws, definitely NOT, cuz manual says set mixture screws for fastest idle at 1200 rpm.


After mixture screws are set for fastest idle on each cylinder (without going past that point) then the idle screw is used to set speed.

 

fine answer :thumbsup:there Mr squirrell man:hail: (to me that is).....but how about a slide sticking??or a bad spring? he should hear vacum leak,throttle cable sticking,etc could be 15 different things, a bike- carbureted -as we are discussing here if all is working properly every carb bike at first needs a choke to warm up,(all bikes i know) then if you ride it at first it may not have clean response,in fact hesitate, but if you rode it down highway for 10 miles and pulled off road and let idle it should be at what you stated 1200-1500.. another oilthread here maybe, if the oil is multiwieght 10-40 when it warms up as you say its 40, when its cold its 10, therefore actually thiner when cold..?? carb parts; float bowel and spring,mainjet, pilot jet, air screw, needle, slide, spring, idle screw is that it??which one is the mixture screw i forgot?????nowthen aren't the airscrew to sycnronize after sync then adjust idle screw when warm??hell i forgot damn carbs. gosh that some some good weed what were we talking about?:mullet:

 

"Fuel screws, definitely NOT, cuz manual says set mixture screws for fastest idle at 1200 rpm.

After mixture screws are set for fastest idle on each cylinder (without going past that point) then the idle screw is used to set speed."


Yes that's true IF they were set right to begin with. We don't know that or at least I don't. Also don't know the condition of fuel or fuel system. Could be a build up of varnish, recent dirt or what ever gas gunk you want to call it some where in the pilot circuit. This may lean the idle out some once hot. Just over the edge to being lean which should raise the idle.

Very simple to find out. Get it hot and check how many turns each one has first. To see if they are even. Then adjust to original position plus a quarter turn out. Test and check out come. Go from there. Of coarse that's after you checked the boot clamps at carb base and head.

The first gens are easy to do this on. The rest I don't know how much work it takes. So it may not be that easy.

 

Not sure if you were being facetious, but this is a fairly common misconception about oil. What the W designation in an oil specification means is that at 0 deg C the oil is no thicker than an SAE 10 weight oil at 0 deg C. The -40 (or whatever second number) means that the oil is no thinner than an SAE 40 weight oil at 100 deg C.

Here, I found a picture illustrating this:

 

so cold its sae10 and hot its sae40???soooooooooooooo

 

no!
It is the same weight as an SAE 40 (would be) at 100 degrees Celcius.
It thickens up as it heats up comparatively (to a single weight oil), but actually gets much thinner.
Use Proper punctuation, it's hard to understand you.

 

love this thickens up as it heats up but gets thinner .......here's my comment on proper punctuation another school teacher:xxx: in the forum:yousuck::censored::flip::flip::flip::flip::flip::flip::flip::flip::flip::flip::flip::flip::flip::flip::flip::flip::flip::flip::flip::flip::flip::flip::flip::flip::flip::flip::flip::flip::flip::flip::flip::flip::flip::flip::flip::flip::flip::flip::flip::flip::flip::flip::flip:did i puctuate that right??

 

DD:"- -as we are discussing here if all is working properly every carb bike at first needs a choke to warm up,(all bikes i know) then if you ride it at first it may not have clean response,in fact hesitate, but if you rode it down highway for 10 miles and pulled off road and let idle it should be at what you stated 1200-1500.."


It's poor practice to use the choke for starting if it's not needed or to use the choke ever to attain a fast idle for initial running.

Besides the high wear on piston rings and cylinders caused by oil film being reduced, possible oil dilution, the excess carbon building up on plugs , it wastes fuel.

A properly tuned bike will start and run WITHOUT choke in mild weather, and the idle adjusting screw can be used --as it was intended --to boost initial running speed (one-half turn is enough) and again to bring down idle speed after engine is warm.