Installation Instructions: Givi Wingrack on '86 VFR (using Givi's universal fit kit)

I'll be filling this in a bit as I go, but here are the instructions on how to install Givi's Wingrack system for hardcase luggage on an old '86 VFR. No modifications to the bike required, and aside from the install kit, only a couple of different-length bolts are required.

Fully Installed:


Parts List:
Givi N140 (or N150) as the indicators are replaced (US$180)
Givi Y128 Universal Fit Kit (US$100)
(3) M8x40 Socket Head Cap Screws (std pitch)
(3) M8x40 Hex Bolts (std pitch)
(1) M8x25 Hex Bolt (std pitch)
(1) M6x20 Hex Bolt (std pitch)

This is slightly excessive on the extra bolts count, but spares are always a good idea.

The universal fit kit contains lots of stuff, I used:
(3) long support rods
(3) medium support rods
(3) short support rods
(2) plates
(4) M8x35 socket head cap screws
(2) M8x45 socket head cap screws
(2) M8x35 hex bolts
(2) M8x45 hex bolts
(2) M8x55 hex bolts
(6) M8 25mm spacers
(6) M8 12mm spacers
(n) M8 Washers
(n) M8 Toothed Washers
(n) M8 nylon lock nuts

I started on the right side, but later discovered it would be better to start on the left, due to the helmet/seat lock.

Remove both turn signal stalks, both side panels, the seat and the rear cowl.

I used the long support rod from the passenger footpeg bracket (there's a spare hole immediately behind the footpeg), to the lower-rear mounting point on the wingrack. A 25mm spacer and a 55mm hex bolt at the foot peg, to position the rod between the footpeg support and the swingarm. A 12mm spacer and 45mm socket head screw at the wingrack. Just assemble the section at the footpegs for now.



I used the short support rod from the turn signal mounting holes to the upper forward-most mounting hole on the rack. 35mm bolt and screw, no spacers (see above image).

Now is where the two sides differ.

On the left, remove the front bolt from rear cowl-stay, where it attaches to the rear subframe (by the fuel pump and coolant bottle). Insert one of the two mounting plates between the cowl stay and the frame, and use the extra 25mm hex bolt and a washer to replace the original bolt (which isn't long enough). See the blow image for specifics (I used a bit long of a bolt, as the picture shows. 25mm is closer to appropriate.



Use the medium support rod as shown, to the front-most mounting point on the wingrack. In the photo below, you can see it attach to the wingrack immediately below the helmet/seat lock.



On the right side of the bike, I used a different point. Halfway along the length of the rear subframe, there's a threaded hole on the frame. M6, std pitch threads. Bolt the other mounting plate to this hole using the new M6 bolt and washer. The remaining medium length rod is used from this plate to the same point the other medium rod was connected to:



Those are the key pieces to getting it installed. The rest is just a lot of fiddling with angles, loosening and tightening the clamps on the rods.

Tips/Observations:

- bolts don't fit cleanly into the clamps past the rod when they're open. Use a hammer or a vise to close the clamps around the rods. This makes them exceedingly difficult to adjust, but you can at least get the bolts in the clamps this way. I tried to get things close as I could, then tighten down the clamps with a 3lb mallet and the garage floor.

- Keep the bolts somewhat loose until the end, stiff enough to hold, but loose enough that a rubber mallet or similar can move things around. Otherwise, it's very difficult to make the adjustments needed to get the wingrack in the right place. In the end, I just moved them by hand after getting things somewhat tight. Then I cranked it all down later.

- Use the top of the wingrack to keep the sides aligned. I did one side to the right place, then attached the top the rack, and other side to the top, and aligned it all in place.

- I didn't put the rear cowl back on until the very end, after everything was torqued down tight. I needed to remove the top plate to re-install the rear cowl, but havinng the cowl off meant that I didn't need to worry about scratching it when I was working on things.

- I placed the wingracks as close as I could to the sides of the bike, so I tried to use as short of bolts as I could, to minimize the risk of scratching up the cowl of the bike.

- My bike had already been fitted with aftermarket rear indicators, and the previous owner had drilled two small holes for routing the indicator wiring, and had (possibly?) cut out the factory indicator harness and crimped in bullet connectors that the wingrack indicators worked perfectly with. I assume these aren't factory, and some modifications will be necessary to wire the new indicators in place. The aftermarket indicators were not impressive. They'd eat bulbs in a couple hundred miles due to vibration, and weren't that usefully bright when they did work.

- Givi's engineering seems rock solid. Their packaging folks are less capable. There was no padding in the box with the rack and as a result the rack wings scratched each other up pretty well in transit, as well as a corner of the indicator was cracked (not the lens, but the body). Also, the universal fit kit was in a much larger box than it's parts needed, and had torn their bags apart somehat. One of the 25mm spacers had what appeared to be an M4 dia hole instead of an M8 dia hole. Luckily it wasn't needed.

Now I just need to go and pick up some hardcase luggage to mount. I wanted the racks first (Givi said it couldn't be done without major fab work) for fitting to the bike, then I want to go to a local dealer to mix/match cases to find the right sizes.

 

I need to make an update of this, with a couple new pics. The top plate is backwards in these photos (I don't have cases yet, actually). I've since swapped it the right way.

I do still need to buy cases, but man, their $$$. And I bought an iPhone.....

 

I just bought some e360 cases and hope they will be here soon. I maybe selling my E120 if so. They not that expensive anyways. You can buy the set for $180.00 or less. Brian...

 

Thanks woody77. Really appreciate the pixs & instructions. Looks great.

ABs

 

Ever get the bags?

Just curious as I found this via a search did you ever get the bags and what'd they look like?

 

Thanks for posting this, very helpful - I know it's a long time ago now - but did it work when you put luggage on?
It looks like it might sag under any weight unless you can connect a bracket from a top mounting hole to the pillion grab rail mounting point under the seat, which will take the weight.

 

It works well for me, with modest loads. The downward forces are carried by the links that attach at the frame turn signal mounts and the links that go down to the passenger pegs. It bobs a little on big bumps, but not enough to cause issues. I wish that the grab handle was available here in the states. If you have one, I'd love a couple close-up pictures of how it mounts, and how it clears the body plastics (which appear to have a raise edge that's in the way). My preference would be to use L-shaped brackets that mounted there, above the sub-frame, to carry the bulk of the weight, with the other points as stabilization.

 

Hi Woody77,
I've posted some photos at MobileMe Gallery so you can see the grab rail mount on the EU spec machine. Mine's actually French but it never surrenders, so I don't hold that against it!!
There is a section where the rear bodywork lip is leveled off. The grab rail bolts onto the same steel cross-member on the subframe as the seat lock is mounted on. The only other difference to your bike that I can see is that the saddle has slight cut outs where it fits over the thick alloy grab rail.
Now I may be in Preston, England... but I just noticed your location and thought what a small world!
I lived on the other side of the pond for many years and have spent a lot of time in them there hills, driving over 17 from San Jose and down to Santa Cruz from SF. I have family in Santa Cruz and an English biking friend in Morgan Hill - had a very nice ride up through the hills toward Watsonville on his Gixxer last year.
I am back over there for a week or two soon - can't wait. Much better weather for biking than here!