Intro and troubleshooting

Discussion in '6th Generation 2002-2013' started by Legnd, Apr 2, 2017.

  1. Legnd

    Legnd New Member

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    Hey all,

    Bought a 2002 VFR in fall last year that is in mint condition. I already plan on buying and installing a VFRness to hopefully not run into charging issues. I'll post pictures after I get it washed up for the season. Working to get it ready today I noticed a couple things.

    First thing is this:
    IMG_20170402_181333412_HDR.jpg

    Doing a little research I'm hoping it's just the stopper chain from the image and not a ground lead or anything.

    http://imgur.com/a/cJbBP

    Next issue is that I went to start up today and my neutral switch isn't working. I can shift to neutral but the dash light doesn't come on. I tried also starting the bike in neutral without the clutch pulled so I'm thinking it's the switch. Researching it now but has anyone had this issue before? Neutral light + switch was working normally before I put the bike away for the winter. Only other thing I can think of is that the highbeam light is slow to turn on when I turn on the high beams.


    I'll post pictures when I get it cleaned up and ready for the year.
    Thanks all,
    Legnd

    P.S. Anyone have a recommendation on tires? I'm not a hard rider and would be commuting/putting on miles so tread life is most important.
     
  2. RllwJoe

    RllwJoe Insider

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    Welcome aboard!

    I'll defer the expert advice to the sixth gen owners, but I think your guess is correct, that looks like the stopper chain.

    I wonder if your neutral light is just burned out.

    If it was mine, I would test to see if you have any DC current coming from the switch with a multimeter first.
     
  3. Legnd

    Legnd New Member

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    Thanks Joe.

    I didn't go digging into the neutral switch at all but I know it's not just a burned out bulb because it won't even try and turn over without the clutch pulled in. I'll take a gander at it tomorrow and test continuity as the manual says.
     
  4. Terry Smith

    Terry Smith Member

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    [​IMG]

    This is the starter circuit for the 6G. The starter should activate in either neutral, or in gear provided the clutch is in and the sidestand is up.

    The neutral switch is the terminal that projects from the clutch cover with a thin single wire attached. The switch should provide ground continuity when in neutral, or open when in gear. If needed the switch is inexpensive and simple to replace.

    Welcome aboard.
     

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  5. RllwJoe

    RllwJoe Insider

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    As for tires, search in the Mechanics Garage forum for opinions.

    There are many threads with a lot of good information that can be found there.
     
  6. Legnd

    Legnd New Member

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    Thanks, that diagram is much easier to digest than the full wiring. I'll be taking a look tonight and see if it's something simple. I'm hoping it's just something lose/unplugged. Forgot my multimeter at work :disturbed:

    Joe thanks. I know tires/oil threads are the worst just wondering if anyone had any specifics they knew got great mileage out of.
     
  7. Legnd

    Legnd New Member

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    Back again guys. Some more issues and I'm hoping you all have some input.

    Got the bike out and put the battery back in. No neutral light....Ok maybe just a burnt out LED.

    Get going and head out and get maybe a mile away and then the bike won't idle. It will kind of start back up but I have to use throttle to maintain RPMs or otherwise it dies.

    My thoughts are that it's hopefully just a loose connection that jiggles lose once I get going but I'm thinking more along the lines of clogged tank vent. I've gotten twice to about a similar distance and then the bike refuses to idle. The battery would crank all day but it just doesn't catch.

    Any other obvious things to check this weekend?
     
  8. RllwJoe

    RllwJoe Insider

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    If you suspect the tank vent, stop, open the fill cap to release the vacuum, and restart the engine.

    You will probably know if it's the vent when you hear the vacuum release.

    If it runs normal again for a mile, you guessed correctly.
     
  9. SweViffer

    SweViffer New Member

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    It could be that someone adjusted the idle while the bike was cold, and then when the wax body thingie gets warm the idle goes down way too far. Maybe?
     
  10. A.M

    A.M Moderator Staff Member

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    Welcome and hope you fix the problems you are having. There are so many knowledgeable members here with amazing experience always willing to help, as you already see here. Great place to be!

    I cannot help with the issues you are having, but I can help answer your question generally. You were wondering about tires that give good mileage. From all the tire threads here, which I hope you read for yourself, the general opinion you will find on high mileage tires is that any of the Michelin PR series will deliver. I've had many PR2s, set of PR4s, now run PP3 front and PR4 rear. All Michelin sets have run me well over 10K miles on my motos. Other members have had similar experiences. But when you have time, read up to see for yourself what it is you may be looking for. But you can't go wrong with Michelin if high mileage is your top goal.
     
  11. Jeff_Barrett

    Jeff_Barrett Member

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    In the photo ... that's the tether for the gas tank when you lift it up. No biggie.

    The neutral issue - so it does NOT start while in neutral and the dashlight isn't coming on? or ... ?? If the neutral light isn't coming on, and the bike won't start without the clutch, then yes, you will want to check the neutral switch.

    As for tires ... I LOVE my Bridgestone T30 EVO (GT Spec version - don't get the regular ones). They are very responsive and great in all conditions. They have great wear (unless you don't get the GT-spec). And you cannot beat the price!
     
  12. 34468 Randy

    34468 Randy Secret Insider

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    YOu mentioned a high beam issue. What kind of lights do you have on your ride. If you have HID, remember that when you turn them on, they take upwards of 12 - 14 seconds to warm up to an operating temperature. But they do turn on right away, just quite dim at first. Could that be your issue there?
     
    Last edited: Apr 12, 2017
  13. 34468 Randy

    34468 Randy Secret Insider

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    BTW. Welcome to the world of questionable character, perverted minds and drunken shennanigans. Scubalong used to be our official welcome but since he has to keep track of the R3 count down, he can't free up enough fingers and toes to keep up on welcoming you new prisoners.
     
  14. Legnd

    Legnd New Member

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    Bad news :( not the tank vent. Got the bike back home, it started to die. I opened the tank fill and then tried to fire it up and it still wouldn't idle. Next idea is.....Hmmmm.


    Another thought but I had the bike running last fall for 500 miles. Put it away and it was functioning 100%

    I was in a toss up between PR4's and T30 and now since I know the GT version fits I may go for those, cheers for the suggestion!

    If I turn the key in 1st gear the fuel injection fires up. I then shift to neutral, no light comes on and if I hit the ignition switch it just kills the light, no starter at all. If I pull the clutch in the bike will fire up and then I can let the clutch out and sit in neutral.

    I spent some time taking the fairings off the bike and it looks like I may have a bit of gas in my oil. The site glass is to the top, I don't know by how much. I have a K&N filter on anyways. Might as well fix that while I'm at it and change to clean oil + honda filter.

    I'm wondering next how to check the neutral switch, I'll research it but it seems like there is oil behind it...Is that something I should expect, oil coming out when I full take out the neutral switch?

    Thanks Randy. I don't know if it's really a problem. The first time I turn on the key and hit the high beam switch it takes maybe half a second to have the dash light come on. Probably just a slow relay.


    Thank you all for the help, I'll be sure to keep you posted as I track down the issues. I figure I'll find something so stupid easy and be embarrassed but oh well. I promise once I get up and running I'll post pictures. She's a beauty, 2800 miles and pretty much mint condition.
     
  15. RllwJoe

    RllwJoe Insider

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    When it falters or dies, does it do so slowly? Like it's running out of fuel?
    If so, I'm thinking that the fuel filter may be plugging.

    The starting issue may not be associated with the stalling.
    It sounds like you are on the right track, to check the neutral switch.
    Correct me if I'm wrong.
    With the motor off, and the transmission in neutral, the start button pushed results in nothing. Which is exactly what is sopposed to happen when in gear.
     
  16. Legnd

    Legnd New Member

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    I'm not 100% sure but it seems to just die. Unfortunately it happens after a couple minute. I start the bike, head off and then a minute late pull the clutch coming to a red light and it will just die.


    THe only odd thing about neutral (besides the light not working) is that I have to pull the clutch to start it, like it's in gear, make sense. But then once it's running I can let the clutch out and it doesn't die or anything. Typing that out I guess it's not that weird. I'll look into the neutral switch!
     
  17. RllwJoe

    RllwJoe Insider

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    "She's a beauty, 2800 miles and pretty much mint condition."

    Is that right? 2,800 miles, 500 of which you put on last fall? Is this the 2002?
    The fuel tank may be very rusty inside, which would plug the filter.
     
  18. Jeff_Barrett

    Jeff_Barrett Member

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    Uhhh ... are you hydro locked somehow maybe if your site glass is to the top?

    First things first ... drop the oil and change it along with the filter. Check your oil .. is it really fuel? That's not a good thing.

    If all is OK after that, try starting again. I would pick up the Honda Service Manual for the bike if you don't already have it and work through the instructions to test the Neutral Switch. What I find odd is that your dash lights go out if you hit the starter switch ... ooc, it does start with the clutch pulled in?
     
  19. Legnd

    Legnd New Member

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    Great call Joe! I think fuel filter is a definite check on if oil change + fixing neutral switch doesn't do the trick. I'll peek into the tank Saturday when I play with the bike again.

    Jeff, that is the current plan of action. Just saw it while I was down looking at the neutral switch and I haven't so much as turned it over since. I know it's not a good thing. I have the dreaded K&N filter on there now so I figure I'll kill two birds with one stone and got a new filter/oil and I'll change it all Saturday. While it's out I'll play around with the neutral switch.

    I'll keep you guys updated!
     
  20. RllwJoe

    RllwJoe Insider

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    I think that you would have a better chance of getting water (as a result of condensation) in the oil pan, than gasoline finding its way in there.

    2800 miles in 14 riding seasons would average out to 200 miles a year!
    Your bike has sat idle for essentially all 14 years!
    Just think of a warm humid day, and a cold glass of whatever you want to drink.
    The humidity leaves a very wet coating of water on the surface of the cold glass.

    In the same way, the metal "sweats" every time there is an increase in temperature and humidity.
    This is seldom a problem when the motor is run enough to evaporate the small amount of moisture that is present.
    However, if it is not warmed up for a long time, that moisture collects in the oil pan.

    This is essentially the same way that the fuel tank can rust, especially if it is empty.

    The only way that fuel can get in the oil pan, that I can think of, is by way of the injectors.
    Then past the piston rings.
    The injectors only push gas into the cylinder when the engine is turning over, and need the help of the fuel pump, which only builds pressure when the ignition is on.

    For all of the above reasons, I lean toward water if anything in the pan.
     
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