Lets See Who Can Figure This One Out!!!

Discussion in 'Mechanics Garage' started by fpierce22, Jan 27, 2021.

  1. fpierce22

    fpierce22 New Member

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    Hi all,

    I still have my beloved 1998 VFR - right at 18,000 miles. A few weeks back the dreaded gauge cluster resetting started - (clock reset, trip resent). Before I could address it the entire gauge cluster died and then a few seconds later so did my bike. I thoroughly checked the R/R, battery, and Stator and ALL checked out fine. However since these (especially the R/R) are weak points in our electrical system I replaced them both - Mofset style for the R/R. Not only did I replace them but I direct wired the R/R to the stator. Took the bike out the next day and the gauge cluster started resetting again - U turn back to my garage.

    I then removed all plastics and checked all connections around the batter, fuse block, and gauge cluster. I also removed the awful green ground 'block' that we have on the 5th gens and direct wired all grounds. Also, checked the ground connection on the right side of the frame - all good - no corrosion or discoloring. Lastly, I installed a voltmeter.

    Just came back from a ride and the gauge cluster (after approximately 5 miles) started to to reset, blink, etc. The voltage (per the voltmeter) is rock solid at 14.5 volts at any RPM above idle. It literally does not move. At idle it will go down to about 12.7.

    Am I at the point that Im going to have to start removing tape from my wiring harness to look for burnt or frayed wires or am I missing something?? Again I have not replaced the batter but there doesnt appear to be a reason to even go down that route (and expense). Can anyone shed some light on this???
     
  2. GreginDenver

    GreginDenver New Member

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    An electrical problem that doesn't show up until you've ridden the bike for a bit (or after you run the engine in the driveway for a while then ride for a bit) sounds like it's an electrical system RESISTANCE issue. And resistance issues tend to get worse when the elements of the electrical system get hot.

    A lot of batteries have a date code printed on them somewhere or on a sticker somewhere on the battery. If your battery is more than 4 years old it could have an individual cell that is dead or dying (short circuited or sulfated, or other similar problem).

    I would definitely try something like swapping in a "known good" battery (like a healthy battery from a different small vehicle or a friend's motorcycle).

    Or... if you find a date code on the battery and that code tells you the battery is more than 4 years old I'd just buy the bike a new battery.
     
  3. Terry Smith

    Terry Smith Member

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    Given the bike fully dies when the voltmeter is still showing good voltage, the fault must be in either power supply circuit (i.e. through the main fuse, ignition switch, subsequent fuses, harness, connectors) or the earth side.

    Things like the sidestand switch or tipover switch can probably be excluded as they would affect the engine running but not the power to the instruments. It sounds intermittent so a broken wire or loose connector is a possibility, or maybe a failing or dirty ignition switch. I'd be doing some point-to-point continuity checks while wiggling the various components.
     
  4. GreginDenver

    GreginDenver New Member

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    I'd like to see what your new voltmeter would show during a ride if it was wired across the battery terminals (rather than an installation like between the R/R and a good ground).
     
  5. raYzerman

    raYzerman Member

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    I'd load test the battery as mentioned, but is there an intermittent connection/failing circuit trace at the cluster itself perhaps?
     
  6. RllwJoe

    RllwJoe Insider

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    My vote would be to load test the battery before tearing into anything more. Not a voltage check without a load. A bad battery can still have 12+ volts with no load.
     
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