Matt Tries – 1984 VF500F Overhaul

Discussion in '1st & 2nd Generation 1983-1989' started by Colddevil, Feb 14, 2020.

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  1. RogueRC24

    RogueRC24 New Member

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    We have done that "scoring" for other metal-to-metal fitments, but I have never done that for a bearing application. It does work, for the most part, depending on how much gap there is.
    Scoob in the hizzle.
     
  2. Kyle G.

    Kyle G. New Member

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    Hey Matt, I saw your post on YouTube and tried to link you the Amazon page for the 90 degree valve stems that fit your wheels, however YouTube will immediately delete comments with links to outside websites in them. I bought those exact same black anodized aluminum 90 degree valve stems for my VF750F, they also didn't fit. You want these valve stems. Buy them right away so as to not forget them for next time. https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B07CWY6SM8/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_search_asin_title?ie=UTF8&psc=1
     
  3. Colddevil

    Colddevil New Member

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    Awesome! Thank you, just ordered! I was going to just install some standard little rubber ones after finding out the 90° ones (Bike Master I believe) wouldn't fit due to the wheel design.

    It appears my procrastination on mounting the tires has come in rather convenient. Thanks Kyle.
     
  4. Colddevil

    Colddevil New Member

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    Alright, I'm stumped. I've actually been stumped for a few months, but I just trailed off and worked on other things. I've now burned through several rear bearings in my confusion.

    There are two different sized bearings for the rear. NSK 6303 DU x2 [17x47x14mm] (rear wheel) is what I pulled out along with the confusing piece a 6204DU [20x47x14]. All three of these match the 17mm axle. But a 6204 has a 20mm inner radius. And when I pressed it in, this is when all the confusion started. There's 3mm of clearance between the rear hub bearing and the axle!

    2022-08-01 20.22.39.jpg
    2022-08-01 20.22.49.jpg

    As you can see in the pics, the hub bearing is not a typical flat bearing (idk what this is called), but it has a 17mm inner diameter that matches with the axle. This piece that makes it taller does not separate. It's almost like this is an aftermarket bearing meant to take up the place of a collar that should fit into a 20mm inner bearing. Piece #9 below. The bearing in question is piece #25, and the other two wheel bearings are #26.
    partsDiagram-9.JPG

    So after gluing these things in with that green loctite (holy shit that locks a loose bearing in place...), I removed them to give this some more thought. Gave my Harbor Freight blind bearing puller a goddamn workout since, I'm an idiot, and I pressed the 20mm inner radius bearing into the wheel, so it left no lip to catch with a drift (it was still curing, while the other had totally cured, so it seemed like the better one to attack to remove).
    2022-08-01 20.24.47.jpg

    I've since pressed in the correct rear wheel bearings, installed 90° valve stems, and remounted and balanced the wheels.
    2022-08-13 09.47.46.jpg

    I want to get to reassembling, but I'm just stumped on if there's a special type of bearing I need for the hub OR if I need the collar piece #9 from above. I've looked through my "rear wheel" tupperware box 15x and don't see anything that could be the missing piece. I always keep all the old stuff until I know I've got it reassembled correctly.

    Does anyone know what I'm missing?
     
  5. Colddevil

    Colddevil New Member

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    *"Sprocket carrier"... not "Hub"
     
  6. Phil Robertson

    Phil Robertson New Member

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    my $0.02 fwiw....

    > the hub bearing is not a typical flat bearing (idk what this is called),

    a shoulder or flange bearing?


    > it has a 17mm inner diameter that matches with the axle. This piece that makes it taller does not separate. It's almost like this is an aftermarket bearing meant to take up the place of a collar that should fit into a 20mm inner bearing. Piece #9 below.

    If it really doesn't separate then that appears to be an aftermarket or updated Honda alternative that integrates the two oe components.

    The two oe components are listed as: 6204 UU [20x47x14] sprocket carrier bearing with an 42625-MA6-000 collar - apparently 17mm dia with a 14mm shoulder (ref https://www.partzilla.com/product/honda/42625-MA6-000?utm_source=bing&utm_medium=cpc&utm_campaign=TNT_Shopping - Standard - All&utm_term=4580909047243610&utm_content=Standard Products)
     
    Last edited: Aug 13, 2022
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  7. Colddevil

    Colddevil New Member

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    Oh, bloody hell. I just put it in a vice and hit it really hard with a hammer and it popped out.

    Thank you Phil.

    ... alright everyone, nothing to see here. Carry on.
     
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  8. Colddevil

    Colddevil New Member

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    So I'll try to be somewhat useful since I believe the squirrel'd one was asking Jim what has tappets looked like compared to new ones a ways back. I bought (8) tappets to replace mine because I'm not smart and thought that there was a single tappet per valve when I was ordering for some reason. To be fair to myself, I immediately emailed Partzilla back twice asking to increase the order to (16), but they never responded.

    This bike has about 21,000mi and has 100% seen track duty in its former life given the amount of safety wire-drilled bolts on it. When I first checked the valves, several of them had zero tolerance. A couple were slightly loose. Basically, it wasn't right. This was a few years ago when I first adjusted them.

    Anyway, I decided to pull the valve cover of the front cylinder while I still have the engine off. I'll be honest, I can't discern any wear that's changed the geometry of the tappet bolts. There's clearly a shiny part that makes contact that's smoothed, but it's not flattened like I expected them to be.

    2022-08-13 16.53.42.jpg
    2022-08-13 16.55.11.jpg
    2022-08-13 16.55.29.jpg
    2022-08-13 16.35.21.jpg

    Given what I see from the fronts, I don't feel compelled to replace the rears. Not now at least.

    But I'll tell you one thing... I may have cursed Jim's name for a second when tappet number 8 of 8 I managed to drop down into the engine. I had been so careful not to, but I slipped up and down it went. Got that little bastard out on the second try with the magnet though! :Rofl:
     
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  9. Jim McCulloch

    Jim McCulloch New Member

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    Sorry man, it tried to warn you. The first time I tore the engine down I remember seeing one in the pan. No telling how long it had been in there!
     
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  10. squirrelman

    squirrelman Member

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    on some models the bottom of the screw is round.
     
  11. Colddevil

    Colddevil New Member

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    These are rounded, but it was tough to actually capture it with still images. It's certainly not flat, but the "round" isn't terribly pronounced.
     
  12. Colddevil

    Colddevil New Member

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    They sure come apart quicker than they go back together... Realizing how many small pieces I've neglected to paint might slow things a bit too. Glad I cleaned up all the bolts and treated with AC50 before storage a ways back. Hopefully rideable before season's end. Then I need to figure out how to spray the fairings and forks once I know I haven't messed something up terribly with the oil pump and sump swap. Ah shit... and the emulators. Hopefully I can get a roller by this weekend's end. Emulators can wait. Road America on Monday--woooo!

    20220817_224517.jpg 20220817_224508.jpg 20220817_224532.jpg
     
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  13. RogueRC24

    RogueRC24 New Member

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    Slick!! excellent!!
     
  14. Captain 80s

    Captain 80s Member

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    That looks killer. Real restos take time. Good job.
     
  15. Jim McCulloch

    Jim McCulloch New Member

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    Excellent work!
     
  16. squirrelman

    squirrelman Member

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    better than new :cool:
     
  17. Colddevil

    Colddevil New Member

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    Thanks guys.

    They'd go quicker if I remembered to put the rear exhaust headers on before the rear shock, hah. All good now--no harm, no foul.
     
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  18. straycat

    straycat Member

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    that looks pristine Matt, very nice !
     
  19. Colddevil

    Colddevil New Member

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    Don't worry--I can change that really quickly by putting on some of the untouched canary pastel flaking-off-from-the-wind-of-a-fan yellow spraybomb pieces. :Smile: It'll be temporary while I can put a plan into place on how prep the forks and all the bodywork for yellow RAL 1023 "Safety Yellow". I'm capable to prep and paint small trim pieces, but the bodywork just seems like a huge task that I want to make sure I know exactly what I'm doing, so I'm not redoing it it several times and throwing away hundreds of dollars on paint and supplies.

    And the answer to the question that was probably obvious and nobody asked--but that I wasn't 100% certain about before yesterday: There are no clearance issues of an '86 oil sump and the Vance and Hines 4-into-2 exhaust.

    2022-08-20 18.58.03.jpg
    2022-08-20 18.58.12.jpg
    2022-08-20 18.58.23.jpg

    And then there it is... lurking ominously over my shoulder. The potential dumpster fire of a 1986 VFR700 I picked up a few weeks ago. I've been trying not to look at it so as not get distracted and because I have too many parts loosely out right now I don't want to lose track of. The only thing I've done so far is pull the tank to give it an evapo-rust treatment and swap in my VF battery to see if some of the electrical works. The whole wiring harness looks hacked up to shit and there appears to be some aftermarket shade-tree quick "fixes" everywhere. Petcock doesn't work. Home Depot grab-bag bolts all over. Clutch is completely dead. It doesn't roll very nice. The bodywork (especially the tail) is pretty smashed up. Tank doesn't leak though, and it came with most of a spare engine. I moved it into the garage so as not to get tempted to start picking at it more before I can do a full set of initial pictures and notes before anything else comes off. I'll start a separate thread with that one later this year. And holy shit this thing is heavy!

    2022-08-20 18.58.32.jpg

    I know it's a bit heretical to go yellow and black on a board and bike that so many people have done such brilliant factory restorations on, but... I think it'll look pretty badass if I can pull off the bodywork.
     
  20. NorcalBoy

    NorcalBoy Member

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    Beauty is in the eye of the beerholder.
     
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