My 1986 VF500F revival

Discussion in '1st & 2nd Generation 1983-1989' started by jstehman, Feb 2, 2021.

  1. straycat

    straycat Member

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    Agree with Jim , the JBWeld followed by the Caswell will work.

    Id be sceptical on the solder if its just adhered to the outer edges of the pin hole. You may have nothing to lose, but why not try a method thats gonna work for sure.

    Here is whats worked for me several times:

    Make sure you make those pin holes a little bigger, using a punch or small screw driver, you really want to find out how weak than thin the metal is around those pin holes.

    When I did my tank, I pushed the holes open wider/larger until I found solid metal. I sand it with a Dremel too and washed inside the tank near the repair area with acetone, being sure to remove any rust sediment that was there (or it will continue to rust).

    Once you have prepped it with acetone, you can also dimple the area around the pin holes so that it will hold a layer of JB weld better.

    Mix up some 2 part JBweld and push it into the holes so it extrudes into the inside of the tank a bit.

    Once that dries, I apply a short-strand resin based filler thats fuel and water proof. Once all that dries you can apply your liner.
     
    Last edited: Apr 3, 2021
  2. Captain 80s

    Captain 80s Member

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    If the interior isn't prepped, using the Caswell is a waste of time in my opinion. And WHEN it fails, you are going to have an unrecoverable mess. Get the old liner out by whatever means first.

    Or solder, solder, solder and run a really good fuel filter til you find another donor tank.

    Likely, you're gonna be painting a tank. Just depends on which one.
     
  3. straycat

    straycat Member

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    Agree, gotta remove a bad liner.

    All the kits I have used come with all the prep chemicals as well (Por15 for example), but not sure if Caswell comes with that.

    You also have to rapid dry them with a heat gun or the liner will fail

    Some old liners will come out with a soak in Acetone
     
  4. jstehman

    jstehman New Member

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    Yeah, probably going to skip using Caswell for now.

    The soldering will hopefully be enough of a bandaid until a better replacement is found or I bite the bullet and have it burned clean and repaired with brazing. That repair is still sound on my Magna but that tank wasn't as trashed as this one is.

    I'd rather just start off with a more structurally sound tank and paint it.. gotta keep my eyes peeled.

    In the meantime, I have plenty of other little things that need attention.

    Sent from my SM-N950U using Tapatalk
     
  5. jstehman

    jstehman New Member

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    Didn't have time to being the tank to the shop.. but I did do a little.

    Rear brake rotor had some weird deposits on it.. like welding spatter. So I ordered a decent used rotor to install.

    Also got the chain and sprockets done. Pretty gross brown mud behind the countershaft sprocket Note the grooves in the top of the shifter gear case from the chain slapping

    Also a little peeved I had to run a tap through the bolt holes in the JT front sprocket to get the bolts to thread in . Whatever their process is to finish the sprocket jacked up the threads.

    Cleaned up the swingarm a bit and put the chain guard back on.

    Also pulled the clutch pushrod to clean that up before putting that cover back on. Got to see how brown nasty the clutch slave piston is. Yeah we're gonna pretend we didn't see that for now.. [​IMG][​IMG][​IMG]

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  6. squirrelman

    squirrelman Member

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    crap on brake rotor is probably evidence some bugger ran his pads down to metal and kept on ridin.

    gotta be real careful not to overtighten bolts on the sprocket cover, and FOLLOW THE TIGHTENING SEQUENCE in the manual.
     
    Last edited: Jul 25, 2021
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  7. jstehman

    jstehman New Member

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    This is all I see about the sprocket cover/clutch slave cylinder install[​IMG]

    Sent from my SM-N950U using Tapatalk
     
  8. squirrelman

    squirrelman Member

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    use your best judgement and carry on. :cool:
     
  9. jstehman

    jstehman New Member

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    Waiting on parts, so I decided to work on the charging system.

    I'm getting 15.5v at idle. No bueno

    Found an FH008EE from a 2007 CBR600RR on FB and hooked her up.

    I'll be danged if it doesn't just fit right in the stock location!

    Splice, crimp, solder, shrinkwrap the stator connectors. I have the power and ground temporarily going into the harness because at least there's a main fuse. I don't have an inline fuse holder in my stash, and I wanted to see if the r/r was good. It is.

    14.0x volts at idle, and 14.3x with revs.

    Nice little upgrade to Mosfet tech[​IMG][​IMG]

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  10. jstehman

    jstehman New Member

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    Finished the wiring up yesterday. Added an inline 30A fuse to the positive, and direct wired to the battery (+ and -) with 10 g wires.

    Edit:

    Just checked voltage after this and am getting 14.4v @idle..

    Yeah.. headlight lowbeam is toast

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    Last edited: May 17, 2021
  11. Thorinn Oakunsheyld

    Thorinn Oakunsheyld New Member

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    Looks like a great project. I can't believe what some people think is a good idea. At work we used to say "get a bigger hammer". Fine for large sprockets and 180 pitch chain; maybe not appropriate for small cast parts like carbs. I like to work on these things in fits and starts. Work a little, walk away, think about the next step. Hadn't occurred to me to just get a big pry bar. Glad the previous owner no longer has access. More of these bikes need to be saved from the wrecker. If not for restoration, at least for the parts. Congratulations on your progress.
     
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  12. jstehman

    jstehman New Member

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    Tank went to the shop today to be burned out and soldered up.

    Can't save the paint, and I'm not having the dents pulled.

    It is what it is. I will wait for a better tank to surface and ride this until one does.

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  13. jstehman

    jstehman New Member

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    Well, she holds fuel now.

    Guy had to patch in metal because it was so perforated after removing the existing liner. And that the liner was so pooled in the bottom of the tank where most of the damage was..

    So at least I can get it mounted and fueled up after some sanding priming and some paint. I'm not going to put any more money into this tank, it's pretty beat.

    I'll just keep my eyes out for another[​IMG]

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  14. Waylander

    Waylander New Member

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    Ah just some clear coat and have a bit of aged patina


    VF1000F2F, now rideable,
     
  15. Jim McCulloch

    Jim McCulloch New Member

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    Nice one....!
     
  16. straycat

    straycat Member

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    That will buff up nice. Bit of wax and bobs your uncle.
     
  17. jstehman

    jstehman New Member

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    Almost there.

    Rust-Oleum metallic blue and gloss Cherry spray cans. ~$20 with a can of primer.

    Have a can of Spraymax 2k clear waiting

    Debating whether or not to try and tape off for the white stripe, or just go as is and clear coat it?

    And the angle is off, and my front cowl is the 84/85 colors so it doesn't match anyway [​IMG]

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  18. Waylander

    Waylander New Member

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    If it gets it mobile, and is close, it will do for now, while the hunt continues for a decent tank


    VF1000F2F, now rideable,
     
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  19. jstehman

    jstehman New Member

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    Well, I got the tap on the tank fitted for a quick leak test.

    I haven't noticed anything leaking yet between tank and tap, but there is a tiny bit of wetness around the ring that holds the selector plate in.

    I'm pretty sure theres an x-ring that goes around the selector plate, just have to find the thread where the compatible oring dimension is.

    Then I'll be on to getting that 1/2" fuel line down to 1/4" ...

    Edit:. Found the thread

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    [​IMG]
     
    Last edited: Oct 7, 2021
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