New addition to the shop.

Discussion in '1st & 2nd Generation 1983-1989' started by Captain 80s, Sep 23, 2017.

  1. Captain 80s

    Captain 80s Insider

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    OH yeah. Need to get out on some real roads and do a little suspension tweaking, but all the preliminary feelings are very positive. Never ridden a 1000 that feels like this, even my very sorted 85. The brakes are very good for this heavy pig and the aftermarket front springs that happened to be in the VFR forks I bought feel great (though I'm sure they are technically a few kg/mm short for what it really needs). Rear YSS shock is very nice and is the most expensive thing I put on this bike. Money well spent.

    But... of course the I can get the clutch to slip under VERY hard acceleration. I actually expected it. Already have the new clutch, I just wanted to get some shake down miles first and make sure there wasn't anything major.

    Now remove the body work and finish some final little repairs and touch everything up. I'll swap in the CBR1000F clutch master when I replace the clutch. I also plan on making some custom exhaust brackets to replace the stock passenger footpeg mounts. And need to figure out some front signals.
     
  2. Jim McCulloch

    Jim McCulloch New Member

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    This is really a great thread. Nice job, gives me hope for my VF500F project.
     
  3. sixdog

    sixdog New Member

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    I totally understand the feeling Captain. It took me about 6 months to get everything up to snuff on my 1000F....carbs, brakes, suspension, clutch and new tires. Yes they are big and heavy but nothing like these Honda V4's when they accelerate .... I have faster bikes but man, the feeling is unique. Great Job Captain!
     
  4. straycat

    straycat New Member

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    Very Nice !! great Job !!
     
  5. Glenngt750

    Glenngt750 New Member

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    Which rear caliper did you use? The picture
    Did you use a rear calpier like this? Was this used on a stock bike? Have never seen anything like this!
     
  6. Glenngt750

    Glenngt750 New Member

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  7. Captain 80s

    Captain 80s Insider

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    The stock caliper is essentially a big version of that, and it contacts the VTR1000F wheel on the inside. I ordered a newer Concours (I think that's what it was) caliper (very similar design) hoping it had a smaller profile on the inside and looked at making an adapter from the 1000R bracket to the caliper. It also was too large. While I was contemplating those options I designed this.
    [​IMG]

    It carries a CBR929RR caliper now.
    [​IMG]

    It will probably stay like this now as I have 3 other projects going. And it works great and is much lighter. I just wanted to try and keep that pivoting hanging caliper design that connects to the frame, not the swingarm.
     
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  8. Captain 80s

    Captain 80s Insider

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    Now it is time to dive into the clutch. It was starting to slip under hard acceleration, so in I go. I also wanted to dig a little deeper to hopefully discover a shifting issue I was having. In the shop and at low speeds it shifts fine, but at higher speeds it just refuses to down shift until I get down to a slower speed. After talking to the previous owner, I decide it's something from the accident. I had already ordered the new clutch and gasket and found a nice low mile shift shaft and shift paw assembly being fairly confident my issue was there.
    [​IMG]

    It was very likely the shift shaft. It was bent on the shifter end and the "paw" that is responsible for grabbing the drum for down shifts was damaged to the point it was pretty much gone. Everything else looks fine and rolls over like it should. I forgot to grab a pic of the paw, but I was very relieved to see the damage. It was the simplest repair and exactly matches the issue.
     
  9. straycat

    straycat New Member

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    Nice that you didn't have to disassemble the engine to get to it all. when I get back to my Second gear issue, im not so lucky, it all has to come out and be fully disassembled .
     
  10. Captain 80s

    Captain 80s Insider

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    I'm pretty sure you can split the cases without disrupting the heads at all on the 1000R. I've done it on a 500 and that had chains and chain runners. I just had to loosen the cam chain tensioners for some slack to get the runners to slide back in. All cams and chains stayed in place and timing wasn't affected.

    I was looking at the 1000R engine last night specifically with this (you) in mind and it looked doable. Now there might be something with the gear drive that introduces a different type of problem as far as re-indexing on re-assembly, but I would def explore the possibility as far as you can. Worst case is possibly having to remove the upper gear towers ahead of time.
     
  11. straycat

    straycat New Member

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    OK thats good to know, thanks.
     
  12. Captain 80s

    Captain 80s Insider

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    All buttoned back up with new clutch and replacement shift shaft and paw. Gotta get some oil after work and take her for a spin. Sure shifted real positive and nice on the stand, I could feel a difference. I'll know tonite. Here's the old piece. You can see the damaged left lower "hook".
    [​IMG]
     
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  13. sixdog

    sixdog New Member

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    Good Luck Brother!
     
  14. Captain 80s

    Captain 80s Insider

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    Downshifts (and up) perfectly! Fuck yes! Time for some thrashing now that I can downshift properly.

    Lowers off to check for any leaks. Nope.

    This updated chassis is a treat.
     
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  15. sixdog

    sixdog New Member

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    Outstanding!!!!!
     
  16. straycat

    straycat New Member

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    So you are 100% correct, buddy of mine just had some shifting issues on his VF1000R resto, turns out you can split the cases without touching the top end. makes my job a bit easier when I get at it. 2 other projects to sort before that one comes back around, need a break from that particular bike, no need to be tackling stuff when im frustrated,
     
  17. Captain 80s

    Captain 80s Insider

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    Installed the CBR1000F clutch master cyl to match the brake master. Also installed a USB charge port.
    [​IMG]
     
  18. Captain 80s

    Captain 80s Insider

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    Figured out one solution for some front signals. Re-shaped the cover under the headlight to be flat where the screws go and used some LEDs as the bolts. They are very bright (even with the headlights on) and are even visible from the side. I might add some flat-4 LEDs down lower too in the raised section the old signal mount came out of (I did that on my 85). I will probably add this style to my 85 as well.
    [​IMG]
     
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  19. NorcalBoy

    NorcalBoy Member

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    Really nice, Cap. Looking awesome.
     
  20. Captain 80s

    Captain 80s Insider

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    So, I've been chasing an oil leak off of the left side. I had replaced the left crankcase cover gasket (NOT FUN, hard as a rock on both crankcase and cover) when I had it off to rotate the engine when I had the clutch side stripped. It appeared it might still be leaking from there, so I removed it to inspect for a possible crack from the crash. The gasket I used was kinda weird (not OEM) but came off mostly intact, so I reinstalled after finding no crack with some Hondabond thinking "I'll never be taking this off again soon". A mistake I will discover later. After cleaning and riding, still possibly getting some oil in that area and possibly from the water pump area.

    After getting the c/s cover off, it was dry in there, both the c/s seal and clutch push rod seal. So my first approach was to replace the water pump o-ring that seals to the crankcase. I thought I might as well start there and when I got it out, the o-ring was very squared. So installed a new o-ring and replaced the SHITTY aftermarket left crankcase gasket I had installed. I fiber sponge is a better term for it than gasket, and after Hondabond it reacted in a way I hadn't seen before. It was absolutely GLUED to both sides after it split upon removal in just a few hundred miles. It was just as hard to remove as the original 35 year old gasket, maybe worse. FUCK. Another night in the shop scraping gaskets. Crack a beer, turn up the music. Installed an OEM gasket this time, clean and dry. Oh, and you have to remove the frame section to remove the water pump, even with the pump cover off.

    Still leaking. So... off comes everything again (except the left crankcase cover!). At this point, what is left is the inner cover that houses the counter shaft seals, clutch rod seals and cover the shift shaft seal. It makes sense that it is likely the shift shaft seal, because the shaft was bent and replaced and that area took a shot. Here's why I didn't automatically go in there to replace everything earlier.
    [​IMG]

    Not really a fun job, can't wait to scrape that inner gasket (which stayed mostly on the crankcase side of course). New gasket, c/s seals, clutch rod seal, shift shaft seal, c/s sprocket on the way. Reinstalled the frame section for temp support.
     
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