O-Ring vs. X-Ring

Discussion in 'Mechanics Garage' started by Dudealicious, Jan 19, 2009.

  1. Dudealicious

    Dudealicious New Member

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    i think it's time to swap out the chain. i'm approaching 15k on the clock. i know a lot of people say they get 20k+ on 1 chain but this is just something i don't wanna mess around with. chain snapping when i'm 150 miles from home. that would suck.
    so, i impose upon you. the seasoned riders of vfr world. O-ring or X-ring?
    it's going to be a DID; honda's stock brand. and the 6th gen is a 110 link. no mods here.
    thanks for the input
    Bob
     
  2. stoshmonster

    stoshmonster New Member

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    I use D.I.D. Gold X-ring chains on all my bikes. The cross section of the X-ring is supposed to have more sealing surface between the chain side plates than a comparable O-ring. It's supposed to have the ability to seal out dirt and moisture better than an O-ring style,and hold in more lubricating oil for longer compared to the standard O-ring style. But you get what you pay for because usually the X-ring chains are a bit more expensive. I always carry extra master links and a mini chain press tool in my onboard Cruztools toolkit. I threw a chain once on my old 1980 CB750F,it was a long 5 miles pushing that pig home. Learned my lesson well that day I can tell you!
     
  3. Action

    Action New Member

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    +1 on the DID Gold X-ring chains. Just put one on mine a few months ago, no problems and they look great. I changed out both sprockets at the same time since my stock chain went 19.8.

    [​IMG]

    The sprocket center (LINKl) has pretty good deals on there kits.

    Action
     
  4. Fester

    Fester New Member

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    I am just changing mine this weekend, same sort of distance, 35,000km (22,000miles). I opted for RK50GXW 'XW-Ring' with new laser cut steel sprockets. Added 2 teeth to the rear to 45 tooth. 3 sealing lips with the XW-ring. Should last a heck of a lot longer.
     
  5. btay67

    btay67 New Member

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    I probably need to go ahead and change out my chain now too. I'm posting up to follow this thread and see what everyone recommends also. Thanks for the the thread start and everones input...
     
  6. chomper

    chomper New Member

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    old chain has just over 30,000 km as well totally shot
    just got a price from local Honda dealer OEM chain was 400$!!!!WTF +sprockets
    Action thanks for that link.
    Has any one found much difference going 2 teeth up on rear?
     
  7. Fester

    Fester New Member

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    Hi all,
    Did the change over today, stinking hot 40C around 100F. I took my time, cleaned up 4 years of muck around the chain etc and finally had 95% reassembled by 6.00PM. After I got most of it together the cold beer flowed, so have not had a chance to see what difference i see with the rear sprocket +2. Will report tomorrow what difference I notice with the extra torque as well as arguably the best gear on the market. They claim around 3 to 4 more horses at the tyre with reduced friction.

    Regards

    Fester
     
  8. Action

    Action New Member

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    When I replaced my chain and sprockets I went +2 on the rear. First of all, it only increases your RPM by about 200 in 6th gear, so not a big change. It does make 6th (IMO) more usable in normal interstate riding. The main reason I did it was I was finding myself between gears on some sharp low speed turns. First was a little too low and second didn't have the drive out I wanted. Now I second gear has the range I want. I was prepared to lose a little MPG but so far no change. I think the equalizer is I use 6th a little more now which negates any losses due to the lower gearing. I highly recommend going to Gearingcommander.com if you are thinking about any gearing changes. The site allows you to put in any gearing changes you are thinking about and it gives you a ton of info including the difference from stock.
     
  9. Fester

    Fester New Member

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    Action,
    Could not agree more on the corners. I did notice an improved performance on a passing move. We were out on country roads, 1 lane each way, and was regularly hitting 140km/hr at the cut back in from a 100km/hr start, all without a change back. The last 10 km are a great winding montain climb we do regularly, and the +2 really did make a difference in the really tight slower corners. Can really recommend the +2 on the back.

    Fester :cheersaf:

    Keep the shiny side up.
     
  10. btay67

    btay67 New Member

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    It sounds like going +2 on the rear sprocket is probably the best way to go for a general performance mod. I have been trying to research what chain options would be best for my 2000. Most of the information I've read on has been for the 6th gen though. Do you think the +2 would be about the same for the 5th gen? Also I am still confused on all the different chain options, 520, 525 and 530. It sounds like going with the x-ring is best idea and new steel sprockets. Any recommendations for 5th gen specific? Thanks again...
     
  11. Fester

    Fester New Member

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    That is a question I cannot answer. Hey 5th Geners, how bout some help?

    Regards

    Fester:cheersaf:
     
  12. soundmaster31

    soundmaster31 New Member

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    I've got +2 on my 5th Gen 1998. It's great. Fuel economy doesn't suffer much at all. My PCIII killed that later on lol. I can get the front wheel up easily if I try (see my how big I am later on in the post).

    One thing to note is that the stock gearing is different on 5th gen than 4th/6th Gens. I believe stock is 16 tooth front and 43 tooth rear on the 4th/6th while 17/43 is stock on the 5th gen.

    You could either go +2 on the rear (45T) or -1 on the front (16T) depending on how much more "pep" you would like. +2 on the rear(17/45) gives you a final ratio of 2.64, -1 on the front (16/43)would give you 2.68, and stock(17/43) gives you 2.53. Or hell, do both but I wouldn't use my bike for highway commuting anymore.


    As far as chains go, you want 530 pitch. That's stock and that's all that you ever really need to consider for a chain on the VFR. The reason other pitches are used are for reduced weight and race applications. So you're looking for a 530 pitch DID X-ring chain for 800cc bikes at about 110 links. The chain I bought had 120 links in it so i just had to "cut" the extra off with a chain rivet tool that I rented from my local shop for 10 bucks. If you have more than one bike or ride more than 15k miles a year it might be worth your while to purchase a chain rivet tool of good quality for yourself...and charge your buddies six packs to use it:drinker:.

    As for where to purchase, I've always had good luck with Sprocket Specialists(LINK) and they're 45T rear sprocket in steel is only $30 bucks I think. I've gone through two aluminum sprockets from them and I wouldn't recommend them as I just blow through those like nothing but that's more of a knock on aluminum and not the company. Last one only lasted about 8 months (it's still on there but the teeth look like shark teeth now lol -no worries, new sprocket came in this week and I haven't been riding since I live in fricken MICHIGAN)

    If you're concerned about durability, know that I am 6'4" and 340lbs so my chain and sprocket get a work out no doubt.

    My current chain is an EK 530SRX Quadra X-Ring (came as 120 link) ~$108. It's a "value chain" according to EK's Website(LINK) but I've had good luck with it so far. I've only had to tighten my chain once or twice since April when I installed it new with new stock 17t front and 45t aluminum rear sprocket. Granted the aluminum takes the brunt of the beating and lengthens the life of the chain to an extent. Aluminum rear sprockets are a poor choice on the VFR anyways since the sprocket is basically an outer ring with no center unlike other sprockets so the weight savings vs steel is negligible, especially for a fatty like the VFR.
     
  13. eddie cap

    eddie cap New Member

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    hey btay, I have a 5th gen, I replaced my stock stuff with a D.I.D 530 ERV series X ring chain and aluminum rear sprocket. I also did modify the gear ratio, I went +2 on rear and kept the front stock. Several months ago we had a thread entitled " best bang for the buck", if I remember correctly , most everyone thought this mod. was number 1. I have to agree, it really woke my bike up and as far as the other side of the coin, I see
    no real disadvantages . eddie
     
  14. chomper

    chomper New Member

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    Great thread! convinced me to go +2. how much will it affect speedo accuracy or does it make much difference?
     
  15. Action

    Action New Member

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    Chomper,
    mine's right about 10% high with the new gears. If you check out gearingcommander.com I belive you can get the exact number.

    Action
     
  16. soundmaster31

    soundmaster31 New Member

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    Your speedo will read high like Action says because it's run off the Front Sprocket Bolt and not the front wheel like older models. It's close to 10% like he said as well. You can try a Speedo Healer if you want. I have one but haven't got around to installing it yet. They're pretty expensive for what they are, but if you want to know exactly how fast you're going without having to do a quick math calculation in your head then it can be worth it. I believe driving without one has kept me out of trouble with LEO many a time.
     
  17. chickwebb

    chickwebb New Member

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    I went -1 on the front and it raises the revs by several hundred at equivalent speed. Bike definitely feels a little peppier off the line and exiting corners. Cost was less than $50 and took all of 30 minutes to change it out, so I consider it very high on the "bang for the buck" scale as it suits the type of riding that I do well.

    As for speedo accuracy, mine was off (high) by 10% before the switch. It's off by about 12.5% now.
     
  18. NeverlosT

    NeverlosT New Member

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    This thread is great. Very informative. I am going to go -1 on the front and try that out for the spring. They are VERY cheap mods as far as mods go, so I might buy a new rear sprocket +2 as well to try if the -1 is too drastic or something.

    Either way, that gearcommander website rules and I appreciate all the info!
     
  19. soundmaster31

    soundmaster31 New Member

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    -1 on the front isn't too bad...it's only a 1/2 step more than +2 on the rear so I'll doubt you'll have any complaints. IF you did BOTH mods then yeah, you'd probably complain about top end mileage if you commute...but hey, passing would be second nature!
     
  20. Cyborg

    Cyborg New Member

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    Action, did DID cut the chain length to account for the +2 rear srocket? The Lady's at 30,000 miles on the current chain and sprocket and she'd due...
     
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