R/r Relocation Opinions Needed

There is a number of R/R threads in here that helped me allot. I have a 91 VFR with only 8500 miles and the factory R/R that was bad. This factory R/R has no fins at all and resided behind a restricted area in the rear plastic. The prior owner did allot of traffic driving which has to be bad on a non finned device that generates allot of heat. I decided to go with the later year VFR R/R with larger fins and two separate connectors. I would say the size is almost double and the amount of area for cooling is at least 4 or more times greater. One connector goes to the stator and the other is pos/neg. To enhance this per many suggestions in the VFR forum I made an adapter that lets me run the positive and negative leads (12 gauge) directly to the battery with a 30amp inline fuse. I bought the connectors to run the stator with 12 gauge also and may do that after I get this finished with this project.
My next issue is where to put this thing! The stock R/R just barely fit in the stock location so there is now way this new one will fit there. Even if it was close there is no air flow in there and I am not carving up the plastic to make it fit. SO I CAME UP WITH THE FOLLOWING IDEA:
1.) Extend the factory harness for the R/R with 14 gauge wire to the connectors mentioned above.
2.) Make a aluminum plate that will mount under the seat where the plastic is for the factory MOM is supposed to sit. That plate will have a 2" hole in it (see reason below). I will post a picture of the plate I come up within a day or two. It will also have a u shaped cutout for wire harness with rubber piece to protect the harness from abrasion.
3.) Attach the R/R with fins facing down on the aluminum plate and centered over the hole mentioned above.
4.) Mount a low profile ball bearing fan (Computer P4 CPU fan) on the opposite side of the R/R with 1/8 spacers so it does not fit flush with aluminum plate. This will circulate air over the epoxy area or the R/R when the bike is sitting or idling.
5.) Cut opening in rear fender well with 1/4" spacing to the edge of the R/R and feed wire harness in U cutout.
This will put the fins of the R/R partially into the full fender well in the rear. The movement of air when riding would be perfect to keep this thing cool and with the added fan there should not even be an issue when the bike sits idle on a hot day. After I get the R/R in there I will be looking at some form of guard to pop-rivet in that would protect the R/R from large debris but still leave the fins exposed to the air.

 

Here is he plate I came up with. Still looking for others who have moved their R/R

 

I got a R/R from Rick's Motorsport Electrics. It was a bit larger than oem. I ended up mounting it on the backside of the subframe, opposite its original mounting position and made sure the connections were protected from the weather. Might have to cut the fender some, but then I didn't have the fender on in the first place as I was trying to make an undertail exhaust at the same time.

 

Tried to relocate the R/R to under the front cowl (where Horn is located)
This area would provide excellent air flow for cooling.

Though after fabbing a harness and checking the voltage, it appeared to only be putting out around 14v as opposed to the standard 14.8v at 5k rpms

I believe this is do to the length of the wire run used to relocate the R/R.
Its basically on the complete opposite side of the bike.
Rule of thumb is the longer you run the length of wire the larger the gauge you need to use due to resistance.

So instead of using 6 or 8gauge wires for the relocation, I just used a GSXR R/R (its huge) and left it in stock location and just BEEFed up the wiring to
10g all around.
I haven't had a problem since.

-S

 

How did you get it into the stock location? There is absolutely no room there??? You have pic?

 

Pontiac-

Its pouring rain here right now...
CHeck back soon, I should have a couple of pics up for you
R/R and all connections and wiring.

Actually fits rather nicely, exact fit upside down with 1 mounting point
its really all you need is 1 bolt (you'll see in the pics)

-S

 

Here is a picture of the plus / neg side of bypass cable. Give me heavy gauge to the R/R to the battery and leaves rest of harness OK. Going to run 12 gauge to stator like this next.

Here is pics

 

This is on the inside of the subframe, on the backside of where the OEM location is.

 

Pontiac-
I didnt forget you!!!
I'll be taking a few pics for you tonight when I get home.
Check back later..after 8:00pm

-S

 

Alright Pontiac, her you go...
Suzuki B/R to Honda R (+)
Suzuki B/W to Honda Gr (-) blk in my pic
(3) Suzuki Blk to Honda Ylw (stator)

Fits quite nice under the tail section.
Let me know if you need any more info.

 

As you can see from the pics the newer R/R is huge and so you see my dilemma. It doesn't come close to fitting under the side cover on the inside so I come to the point of what part of the wheel well do I want to carve up. I am going to the top rear as show by my, before the cutting begins pictures.
Picture 1 is the area I will cutting the hole for the R/R. I will make the hole 1/4" larger than the actual R/R. I am hoping to find a high temp rubber/plastic that can go around it for sealing. Picture 2 and 3 shows just how large the R/R is along with 4 that shows the thickness.
Once the hole is cut the brackets I make will drop the fins of the R/R down into the opening above the wheel. I will figure out a screen or deflector that I can attach to the underside to protect the fins. Mount a fan on the top that will blow on the epoxy (where the electronics are) and I believe the heat issue that I was having will be gone for good. I tested it with my new harness and my LED voltmeter never dropped out of green once so charging is there. I will be watching the stator wires closely and if there is any hint of the wire overheating my 12 gauge stator harness will go in. I will probably add it sometime in the summer anyway.

 

Modifications near completion.

Today I got things near completion and I like how it is coming out.

1.) Traced outside of R/R to plastic
2.) Air saw and a hi speed rotary tool and hole is opened with lip for plate
3.) Plate cut and holes drilled for cooling and mounting of R/R

I will be using 1 brace on each side from bolt from R/R to outside frame. I will be using high temp silicone for seal from plate to fender well and it will also act as glue to support the plate. I will also use the silicone to protect & seal the wires underneath. As you can see from the last two pictures the fan (HD ball bearing fan) there are four aluminum spacers which let the air hit the epoxy section of the R/R head on and flow under and out and into the under seat area. That with the large fins should be enough at idle and stop lights and once moving then I believe heating is not even an issue.

Next I am looking at a stainless protector for fins or may end up being some other material but for now I am going riding.

 

Just one thing left. Pull the rear plastic and attach it to the frame. I intend to use 1" 1/8 or 1/4 aluminum from plate to frame. Added some nylon washers to stabilize the plate on the plastic. With hi-temp silicone there should be minimal heat transfer to the plastic. Have to trim the screws a bit and add some heat transfer grease to plate but then it goes in.

 

Finished pictures tonight

It is done and I took a 75 mile run yesterday. Stopped after a 20 mile freeway run and the R/R was cool enough to put your hand on no problem.
After 30 minutes around town was warmer but still could put your hand on it. The fan does an excellent job of moving air also. The silicone (heat) seals to a nice rubbery base.

 

dang man, that's a super upgrade. you weren't messing around.

 

Well, if you ever sat in a hick town with one telephone where the gas station attendant had an IQ compatible with her amount of missing teeth you would understand. Add the fact that I called my AAA and got a moron who put my mint VFR on a flatbed and stretched it like a medieval knight on a rack and I do not want it to ever happen again.

I added the nice LED voltmeter so I can watch the charging fairly close with a simple glance and it stays in the green 98% of the time. Low RPM with signal gives me a blinking green for a few seconds until the R/R figures it out. Other than that I am waiting to find out if there is any issues with debris before I build a stainless screen protector for it.


By the way guys all of this was done with a hacksaw, jigsaw and a drill. No machine shop at all.

 

I'll second that. Was going to throw in if there's anyway it could have been moved up front somewhere in the faring to catch in coming air, but no... you went the way you did... LOL Nice job.

 

I heard allot about wire length when I was researching this and where I put it is about a foot longer for the stock wires. The 12 gauge (redundant) power wires to the battery are much shorter to. I figured with front mounting both wire lenths would have been at least 3 feet if not more. Heat - wire length - gauge where the three KILLERS of harness and R/R so that is what I went with. When you see the finished pictures tonight it blends in well.

I am now looking for a small piece of fine mesh stainless that I can use to protect the fins from any debris. After the ride yesterday there wasnt one mark on it.

I am all ready working on the redundant 12 gauge harness for the stator.

I figured do it right the first time and no more headaches. The R/R from the later year R/R is huge and has a far better rep for stability and long life.

 

I went though the whole bad R/R deal, like everybody on here seems to have. I was thinking about PC fans, adding arctic gue, creating ducts for cooling, and then I decided to just mount a new one, and ride the thing.

I did end up getting a Ricks Motorsports R/R, mounted right up, and off I went. 7,000 miles later no issues (knock on wood). I have not ridden it in the summer yet, so that will be interesting, however i honestly believe that the newer style R/R's these days, with the cooling fins, is all you need.

 

Putting a newer R/R from a VFR (the one I bought) does not fit in the spot where the stock one goes. It is just to big and I know there would have been heating issues. There is an insulation foam and even when I removed that the sides would not fit. The silicone will handle 500 degrees so it is well within its range. Fan comes on with key and stays on.

Here are the finished pictures.