Rectifier mod/replacement

Discussion in '3rd & 4th Generation 1990-1997' started by B9PT8O, Mar 21, 2022.

  1. B9PT8O

    B9PT8O New Member

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    When I bought my bike the guy told me he had replaced the rectifier as the original had imploded. Great, common fault fixed already. Turns out the rectifier he used was the size of a postage stamp (but the plug fit the original connectors so win win, right?) Its blown again and the bike isn't charging. So I bought a Chinese copy of an Yamaha R1 rectifier, with a view to getting an actual Yamaha Rectifier when funds allow.

    I'm also going to replace all the connectors and cabling from the stator to the battery (the rectifier has totally different connections anyway) my question is hopefully fairly simple: Does it matter what order the 3 phase (yellow) cabling goes into the rectifier?

    I'll post some pics when I work out how to do it....
     
  2. skimad4x4

    skimad4x4 "Official" VFRWorld Greeter

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    Good luck with the mod. All the yellow output wires from the stator deliver AC so it does not matter about which wire goes to the three input connectors on the Rectifier.
     
  3. B9PT8O

    B9PT8O New Member

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    That was lurking in the back of my mind, thank you for confirming!
     
  4. mello dude

    mello dude Administrator

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    Good luck with the Chinese R/R.....typically those die before you install it.......
    :bruce2:
     
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  5. Simon Edwards

    Simon Edwards New Member

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    Have you read "The Drill"? It's a sticky thread at the top of the Mechanics Garage forum.

    Read it all, it will be worth it.

    After reading that thread all through. You may well be chucking your Chinese RR module in a bin and searching out a better, perhaps more local supplier of expensive but reliable RR units.

    There are two general physical types available. Ones with the OEM single combined connector ready to plug into the existing wiring. Or ones with a pair of connectors, one for the stator and one for the charging circuits. Both types are available with either cheap or decent MOSFET modules inside them. The state of your existing connectors and your level of desire to stay OEM will decide which route you take.

    Before buying anything look for high resistence burns anywhere in the stator to RR wiring - there are only a couple of sets of connectors - so this is a quick check to make.

    If your stator to loom connectors are at all discoloured then you must fix those now too (either replace with better connectors or simply cut them off and solder the links instead) as well as replacing the RR with a decent replacement. If the existing RR plug shows signs of burning at the connectors then that too must be replaced. Clean the connectors whilst you are inspecting them - it just makes sense.

    In short, high current flow and corrosion or any other resistence creates heat. Heat creates more degradation of the insulation and the surface of the joins. Eventually you either get connector failures, or fire, or both. RR's do not like any erratic connections and tend to crap out early.

    For the same reason check and clean your loom to chassis/frame earthing points whilst you are in there. All off them. Use fine emery paper or cloth and contact cleaner spray to clean all of the mating faces and don't forget to tighten the bolts properly afterwards. Smear a fine layer of silicon grease around the earth locations at the end to help prevent corrosion imtruding from the edges and causing issues after a while.

    As Mello Dude hinted. If you decide to go cheap with an RR, it is usually best to carry at least one spare RR under the seat. Plus the tools to fit it at the roadside. You will need to use them.
     
  6. B9PT8O

    B9PT8O New Member

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    Thanks for that Simon, I will do. I've had the cover off and checked the stator and all is good, all the cables and connectors are good so I think it was just the original rectifier getting toasted, then replaced by a second rate replacement. I plan on running new cabling direct to the R/R.

    I hear the comments on the Chinese R/R, I have used one in the past on an Aprilia (also poor R/R) with reasonable success. The main reason for using the Chinese copy R/R is basically to confirm the system works, I don't planning on doing many miles this year, casual Sundays when family/weather permits. Installing the Chinese kit will allow the genuine article to be fitted probably next winter, by then it will be a quick fit.
     
  7. raYzerman

    raYzerman Member

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    If you're going to keep that R/R, I highly recommend you install a voltmeter to monitor charging voltage. If anomaly's appear, you'll know it's time to investigate again........
     
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  8. KTM AL

    KTM AL New Member

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    Hi I have fitted a used MOSFET R/R on my KTM990 and 750GSXR SRAD ,I have one to fit to my Himalayan with a new plug kit when I get round to it. A great upgrade .
     
  9. jaripetteri

    jaripetteri New Member

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  10. KTM AL

    KTM AL New Member

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    That's neat , nice job
    [​IMG]
    same mod on my Gixxer
     
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  11. jethro

    jethro New Member

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    Which R/R did you use? Is it the 020? I have a 3rd gen to and need to do this.
     
  12. jaripetteri

    jaripetteri New Member

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    Yes second hand Shindengen FH020AA from newer Honda (2018).
     
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