Regulator Rectifier for my 99

I just bought my 1999 vfr and it keeps dying (guages act wierd and/or don't work then the bike shuts off after it kills the battery charge). I read a lot on regulator's and I also called up honda and got free advice by letting them think I was going to get it fixed there so I'm about 99.9% sure thats the problem. My question is I found a regulator for $114 which is good considering honda wanted $200 then $70 to change it. I bought a 40 amp one because I kept reading they were better then oem but I'm curious has anyone else installed one of these 40amp ones and also do they crap out just as much or are they reliable and hopefully I won't have to change it out again? Also is there something I can do to prevent the regulator from shitting the bed again? I read that you can run a NEG lead from the Neg on the Reg to ground like on the master cylinder or something. Any input would be hugely appreciated because I know nothing about working on bike or cars so this will be my first time ever working on a bike.

 

I got my R/R for my 93 from Rick's Motorsports. It is a larger unit than the OEM one. I ran a black wire to ground (on frame), red to the + side of the battery, and 3 Yellow directly to the stator, basically, by passing my wiring harness completly. So far, in the few rides since doing that, it seems to have fixed the problem. Just make sure you have no corroded grounds/burnt conectors. This will cause the r/r to work harder than it needs to. Oh, I almost forgot, I also mover my r/r from between the subframe and the cowl, to the inside of the subframe where the wheel splash guard is so that it would be better able to disipate heat.

 

They have improved the OEM rectifier sets, that's why I chose to stick with Honda when I replaced mine (that and I didn't want to tear my wiring apart.)

Shop around, I got mine for 140 I think.

The difference is pretty obvious...

 

yea, my new one is larger than the one that was on it. I presume the old one is a honda unit. New one it on the right.

 

I used the one that electrosport sells for $109 plus shipping. No issues so far. "Plug and play".

http://www.electrosport.com/electrosport_electrical_honda1.html

BTW, I normally work on humans, not machines. It was too easy.

 

Do you guys think it would be wise to get an aftermarket stator too and hardwire it in there along with everything else so I don't have to worry about the connectors? I guess they have upgraded those also.... any thoughts on that idea?

This is the one I found
http://www.regulatorrectifier.com/c...-vfr800-vfr-800-interceptor-stator-p-671.html

 

Threw the R/R in there the other day and have finally been able to take it on a full ride without having to call someone for a jump or a tow. I did end up just plugging it in instead of hard-wiring it in there cause it was raining and I just didn't have the patience. Thanks for all your input it was much appreciated.

 

You can replace the Honda R/R with a yamaha or suzuki R/R $$cheaper and works the same...You just have to splice it into the wiring..

 

Don't think that was a honda unit, they're more squarish.

 

As far as I know for the 98 VFR800F1 R/R the upgrade part no is SH689DA. Supposedly more fin area to disperse the heat.

 

I have read a nmbe rof articles on this. Heat is what kills the units. When they die they either overcharge the battery or quit charging it. When you install the unit get some heat sink grease from a good mechanic supply or, probably better, a computer store. In theory the higher the amperage rating the higher the ability to reject the heat. I am will to bet that the bigger the heat sinks the better. Moneysoon

 

Hey Guys please help me out, where is my R/R Located on my 2000 vfr? I am in the process of reconstructioning one and while I have it basically spread all over the floor , I would probably like to remove thr bolts clean the mounting surfaces very well and use dielectric grease to help it run cooler, if anyone of you guys can help guide me , I would be much appreciative. tks eddie

 

yo M D; Thanks for your input. When I said reconstruct I was talking about putting the bike back together, not the regulator,sorry for the confusion.
Yes I guessed correctly then,my RR is on the left side of the bike and is hidden by the rear tailight cowl and almost directly accross from the battery. I cleaned up all the mechanical contact points used dielectric grease and ran a 12 ga. wire from the mounting bolt on the RR to the neg. side of the battery, I have not done anything on the positive side
because I really did not understand the one guys directions very well. Anyway I checked battery voltage and when running I had about 14.3 volts ,which I believe is ok. I hope to get out and ride this machine (ONCE ITS ASSEMBLED) very soon.

 

Here's a photo with the part number. It comes with an aluminium backing plate (for better heat dissipation I guess) and longer screws, as the new R/R is thicker.

It cost SGD$150 here, which translate to US100.

 

Yo SNOWPARANG; THANKS SO MUCH FOR THE INFO AND THE pn,Did you do any of the additional wiring that was suggested by one of the other VFR brothers? Also did you run into any fit problems with the new larger unit,Did you keep it mounted in the same location? ed

 

The R/R mounted in the same location.

No I did not get to try the wiring, cos I ran into another problem.

After bolting on my new R/R, the battery ain't charging either! Ran the earth leakage test, continuity test (for the stator) and non-continuity test between stator wires and gnd as suggested by the manual, all came out fine.

My only clue is that one black/white wire on the black connector is actually continuos with my gnd (green) wires. No time to took a picture but meanwhile I managed to find it in the service manual.

Any kind soul can tell me should this black/white wire be connected to gnd? If not, where should I start looking for the short-circuit? I suspect it's a switch to turn on the R/R....am I making sense?

As shown in the diagram at the R/R, the W/Bl wire and the G wires are found to be continuous on my bike. Should that be the case?

I've traced the W/Bl wire and it leads to engine start-stop switch and engine stop sensor (what's that?).

HELP!!!