replacing fork springs

Discussion in '5th Generation 1998-2001' started by revguy, Feb 23, 2017.

  1. revguy

    revguy New Member

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    So I decided I should replace my fork oil, then started thinking if I am pulling them apart and cleaning I will need new bushings and seals. So I ordered those in from honda and decided to order new springs as well. I ordered them from race tech and they arrived today with no instructions ...... ok no big deal, however they also came with the material to cut new spacers............. does anyone have any idea how long these spacers should be cut at ? Or is this going to be assemble, reassemble, and keep trying until I get it right ?
    Any help on this I would really appreciate ........ I will be pulling them off and apart this weekend.
     
  2. Terry Smith

    Terry Smith Member

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    Racetech normally specify 15mm of preload with their springs.

    Do this before you add the oil. Assemble your fork, extend it fully. Drop in the spring and the washers that will go top and bottom of the spacer. Measure from the top of the extended fork tube down to the top of the washers sitting on the spring.

    Now take your fork cap, set the preload adjuster to minimum (screwed out). Hold the cupped washer in contact with the locknut and the adjuster, as it would normally sit in the assembled fork, and measure from the bottom of the washer to the base of the cap that sits on top of the fork tube.

    The difference between those two measurements would be the spacer length with no preload. Add on 15mm, and you've got a spacer length that will compress the spring by 15mm when assembled.
     
  3. Terry Smith

    Terry Smith Member

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    Racetech normally specify 15mm of preload with their springs.

    Do this before you add the oil. Assemble your fork, extend it fully. Drop in the spring and the washers that will go top and bottom of the spacer. Measure from the top of the extended fork tube down to the top of the washers sitting on the spring.

    Now take your fork cap, set the preload adjuster to minimum (screwed out). Hold the cupped washer in contact with the locknut and the adjuster, as it would normally sit in the assembled fork, and measure from the bottom of the washer to the base of the cap that sits on top of the fork tube.

    The difference between those two measurements would be the spacer length with no preload. Add on 15mm, and you've got a spacer length that will compress the spring by 15mm when assembled.

    For reference (but not guaranteed to work for you and your springs) the spacers supplied by Daugherty for my 5g forks with 345mm long springs were 80.6mm.
     
  4. Terry Smith

    Terry Smith Member

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    And if this is your first time pulling the forks apart:

    While the forks are still tight in the lower triple (top yoke loosened) break loose the fork caps.

    While the forks are still assembled, break loose the allen head bolt at the bottom of the fork. This bolt can be troublesome as it threads into the bottom of the cartridge, and there's not much to stop the cartridge base from spinning, and the spring preload can help. An impact driver is really useful here. If it starts spinning anyway, try pulling up on the extended fork while trying to undo the bolt. Swear a lot if that helps.

    I make a habit of cleaning up the threads on the bolt and cartridge base using a tap and die to make sure they reassemble smoothly, and use just a spot of Loctite blue.

    You only need to disassemble to this extent if you plan on replacing the seal and bushes.

    Check the fork tube for rock nicks and gently file these down to prevent future seal damage.

    Put the cut corner of a plastic bag over the fork tube end when you slide on a new seal, to prevent seal damage. Some rubber grease is useful here too.

    If you don't have a seal driver (I use a length PVC conduit pipe) you can re-use an old oil seal to protect the new seal while you drive it in.

    Make sure you bleed air out of the cartridge when you refill the fork, by pumping up and down until you get smooth even resistance.

    Do the same with the fork tube.

    Set the final oil level springs out, fork fully compressed. Racetech recommend an airgap of 120mm, 5W oil.
     
  5. revguy

    revguy New Member

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    Thanks Terry !
    That is a lot of great information I didn't have reading the Honda shop manual.
    Every time I ask for advice on here, I always get lots of great advice from fellow people who love these great bikes as much as I do.
    Over the years I have changed the headers to stainless to eliminate the cat. replaced the pipe with a high mount, did the pair valve thingy, vfrnes & rectifier upgrade. power commander III and dyno, replaced the rear shock with a custom 5 stage shock from Elka and lots of other upgrades, mods and tweaks.
    All with the help of people on here........... This is a great site with some great helpful people !! Thanks I really appreciate it guys !
    After checking the stupid valves last winter This should be a little easier job. :vtr2:
     
  6. Lint

    Lint Member

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    I'm going to buy some Racetech springs from a guy on Facebook. Anyone know if there's a way to tell if they really are Racetech? Is there a marking or something?
     
  7. Terry Smith

    Terry Smith Member

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    My Racetech springs are currently hiding in some forks, but IIRC they have a part number inkjet painted on the outside of a coil about halfway down; if they're used springs that may not still be there. There are formulas to calculate spring rate based on coil count, wire diameter and spring diameter, and they should be 340mm long.


    Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
     
  8. Lint

    Lint Member

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    Thank you.
     
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