Transmission/gearbox removal

Discussion in 'Mechanics Garage' started by douglasthecook, Dec 28, 2011.

  1. douglasthecook

    douglasthecook New Member

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    Has anyone here removed and/or replaced components of or their complete transmission? I went over the maintenance manual last night, and it seemed to have me do a bunch of unnecessary stuff, like remove the cylinder heards, etc. It looks like I could do this with the engine in the frame, but I'd like any tips and tricks before I attempt this. Thanks!
     
  2. TOE CUTTER

    TOE CUTTER Mullet Man

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    You can leave the heads on, the removal of the heads just makes getting to a couple of bolts much easier to get at but not worth taking them off. Even gen1 can be done withoot taking the heads off but it is tricky. You will need to take the engine oot though, no way around that.
     
  3. kennybobby

    kennybobby New Member

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    Hey Douglas,

    What's the matter with your tranny--something broken or just making some mods? i've split a case to replace the countershaft without removing any cylinders, but that was back in the days before the internet was invented...
     
  4. douglasthecook

    douglasthecook New Member

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    Well...my VFR will pop out of 2nd gear and go back into neutral when above 9k RPM. Very frustrating, especially when doing a track day. It does have a shift star installed, and I have recently replaced the clutch plates and springs. It only does this in second gear, so I'm pretty sure the shifter drum or forks, or even the 2nd gears are worn, and need to be replaced. I didn't want to have to do this mself, and really wanted fresh parts instelled during the big bore install, but that isn't going to happen this winter...
     
  5. kennybobby

    kennybobby New Member

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    worn shifter dog tips?

    shifting into 2nd seems to hammer the dogs more than any other--as a result the ends of the shifter dogs that slide to engage the gear will get worn and rounded over at the tips. i have repaired them by building the corner back up with a little TIG weld or braze weld, then machine it back flat. Don't weld on the sides, just the ends, then you can use a dremel grinder and file to take it back down flat. The sharp corner at the tip keep the dog engaged in the gear slot and helps prevent it from sliding back out and the unintended neutral...

    Of course new parts may not be too outrageous, less work, peace of mind, etc.
     
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