Uneven chain wear? (and other mechanical questions)

Discussion in 'Mechanics Garage' started by Pannenkoek, Mar 5, 2020.

  1. Pannenkoek

    Pannenkoek New Member

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    Hey guys, first post here (apart from intro) so bear with me if this is in the wrong place etc.

    Lately I've noticed my chain having way too much slack, so I adjusted the chain on my 98 VFR for the first time. A friendly neighbour advised me to rotate the wheel when I was done, since chains can have different amounts of slack, who knew? So I did and lo and behold, there is a pretty big difference between the point with the least slack, and the point where slack is smallest.

    The tightest point is ofcourse the bottleneck, I've adjusted the chain for this point to be within spec, but the point with the most slack is still pretty loose. See attached pictures, I think my chain and sprockets certainly don't look young, but they some distance left on them?

    What could cause this amount of uneven wear, or is this to be expected? And how do my chain/sprockets look, are they due for replacement?

    I've also made a quick vid for clarification, ignore the first 10 seconds where my phone wouldn't turn on the flashlight ;) CLICK
     

    Attached Files:

  2. Terry Smith

    Terry Smith Member

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    Tight spots on the chain are one of those things that just happen. Once you have a tight spot, it won't go away. Personally I believe tight spots are caused when the chain is inadvertantly overtightened on the centrestand; at rest with the swingarm hanging, the distance between the sprockets is less than when the suspension is compressed so the sprockets and pivot are in a line, and that can then put extra tension on the chain and slightly bend the chain pins causing the friction and tight spot.

    My suggestion is to replace the chain and sprockets as a set, and always set the chain tension to the looser end of the range.
     
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  3. NorcalBoy

    NorcalBoy Member

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    It will do it no matter what you do. Oddly enough, I experienced less of it when I went to 520 conversions using a DID ERVIII. I have set it in at the tighter end, middle of the range, and the lower end, they all do it. Find the tightest point and adjust to that location.
     
  4. squirrelman

    squirrelman Member

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    it's time to replace chain and sprockets when the difference between tightest and loosest spots is too extreme.

    even a good quality chain is usually nearly done by 20-25.000 miles.
     
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  5. raYzerman

    raYzerman Member

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    I read a post on one of the forums where a guy wondered "where does this seal go"... after measuring it, found out it was an o-ring from the chain... found a couple I think.... might want to pull the front sprocket cover and see if you lost some o-rings..... might be time for a new chain and sprockies.
     
  6. Darth Vader

    Darth Vader New Member

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    The rear sprocket looks to be past its best. I personally would change the chain and sprockets as there is quite a difference between the 2 pictures showing the slack. Its quite an easy diy job wth a chain riveter
     
  7. Pannenkoek

    Pannenkoek New Member

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    The manual suggests checking and adjusting the chain on the centerstand, do you do this without?

    "Where does this seal go" is not something I'd like to hear That's.......frightening. I had a laugh while reading this though :D

    Thank you all for the advice, now I'm definitely looking at new chain / sprockets!

    Also, I have some other, general mechanical questions and I feel like it's a bit overkill to start a new thread, so I'll just ask them here ;)

    I've purchased the VFR in October '19 with 47k km's on it, and I'm close to hitting 54k. Unfortunately I know nothing about the maintenance history and about the previous owner. Everything looked pretty clean and well maintained and the bike gave a very good overall impression, but I don't have ANY info on maintenance. So that being said:

    1. I will replace the oil+filter and arifilter next weekend (waiting for better weather). The spark plugs should be replaced every 12k km's according to the manual, so at 48k. Would it be a good idea to replace them since I don't know how old they are, or is the 12k interval a bit prudent?
    2. I've checked the install reg/rec since it's a very common failure. I see I have a "Shindengen FH009AA" installed but I cannot find anything on the internet, if it's any good, if it's a MOSFET type or not, etc. Any ide?
    3. Valve inspection should also be due at 48k. I've head many stories on (Honda) valve inspection and it not being really that much of an issue. What are your thoughts on this? If I open it up, do I need a new gasket, or can I get by with some sealant gel?
    4. Same question as 1., clutch and brake fluid and coolant should be replaced every 18k, km's. I have no idea how old my fluids are but the brake fluid doesn't look dark. Would it be overkill to just replace everything?
    5. I also use the bike to commute and ride frequently in rain, cold and if I'm really unlucky, in salt. Is there something I can use to protect the parts of the bike that are more susceptible to corrosion?
    6. And finally: I have about 2 mm left on my front brake pads, so I'm looking to replace those in the future. Just to be thorough, I'd also like to clean the pistons. Is it nescessary to remove them completely and also replace the seals? (and maybe combine new pads, fluid, seal, cleaning and installing new, braided hoses all at once?) (Did on my old bike so I have some experience on that).


    I know it's a lot of questions but I used to ride a very badly maintained Kawasaki ZZR before this, and I intend to keep my VFR as nice as when I got it :D
     
  8. Paul Myers

    Paul Myers New Member

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    Hmm very timely.
    I adjusted the chain on the 2001 I just got before it went to safety and after the safety they said the chain was too tight.
    When I checked it again there was more slack then I was comfortable with so I adjusted it back.
    Took it for a ride before doing an oil and filter change and could hear a rhythmic sound.

    After changing the oil I rotated the rear wheel and checked the chain. At one point it goes very tight and then gets loose.
    I was hoping to get the season out of the chain but it looks like it will be getting changed sooner than planned.

    Thinking a 520 conversion may be the way to go since I will need to replace the sprockets when I do the chain.
    Any recommendations on chain and sprockets. I'm partial to a gold colored chain but not mandatory.

    Thanks,
     
  9. squirrelman

    squirrelman Member

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    ^^^ that's one definition of a woe-out chain.
     
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