Very low voltage from stator, all new parts, something else?

Discussion in 'Mechanics Garage' started by exxy, Apr 16, 2013.

  1. exxy

    exxy New Member

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    I'm absolutely sick of reading and searching the vast amount of r/r and stator posts on the forums. I can't find what I am looking for so if you can redirect me please do so.

    Step 1: Years and years of dead batteries lead me to discovering that my charging voltage was dangerously low.
    Step 2: Replaced the R/R and voltages were still low. I checked my stator and it tested bad.
    Step 3: Replaced stator and battery. I still have ultra-low voltage coming from stator.

    New battery, New stator, New R/R:

    [table="width: 500"]


    BATTERY
    STATOR

    IDLE
    13.46 VDC
    9.0 VAC

    ~5k
    13.98 VDC
    7.6 VAC

    OFF
    13.3 VDC

    [/table]

    Other things I've checked:
    • Wiring around the R/R and stator is not burned
    • All replacement parts are from Rick's
    • Stator voltage remained the same before and after replacement leading me to believe it's a ground somewhere

    I'm going to get a new battery for my volt meter and find a secondary volt meter to use (I am a low volt technician) to confirm my readings. My instincts really want to check the stator voltage while not plugged into the R/R to eliminate the rest of the bike wiring but I'm afraid unplugging it while running will cause damage, is this possible or will the bike simply run from the battery?
     


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  2. zoom-zoom

    zoom-zoom Member

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    Hey Exxy

    Check out this thread that I started when I had questions about my electrical system last year some time. There was a number of helpful links on how to do certain tests. As for checking the stator voltage while running I know I did the check on the stator output voltage with the bike running. I went pin to pin on the yellow stator wires with the regulator unplugged but you have to be very careful not to let the probes touch one another or you will short the stator as I believe someone mentioned to me. I unplugged the connector first and then started the bike as I recall, and it ran off the battery but it did not take very long to do the test. Everyone I asked said to make sure the battery was fully charged because it could cause a false reading.

    Hope this helps. Rubo has a good thread to check on how to diagnose the charging system problems and there was a video on how to do the tests. I think it is post number 2 on the following link.

    http://vfrworld.com/forums/mechanics-garage/39362-2000-vfr-r-r-question.html
     


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  3. OOTV

    OOTV Member

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  4. exxy

    exxy New Member

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    I appreciate both of your responses; however, I used those two sources to get where I am now.

    I need help figuring out where to go from here. What is causing my stator's voltage drop when it is connected to the r/r (a.k.a the rest of the circuit)?

    Technically my charging voltage appears okay. If this were a superficial charging-circuit test I would have passed with flying colors because most people don't check stator voltage unless the charging voltage is low. I just feel like I cannot ignore the fact that my stator drops to 9.0VAC under load.
     


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  5. OOTV

    OOTV Member

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    From all of the threads I have read, if it wasn't the R/R or stator, it was usually a bad wire harness or wire(s), connector or grounding issue that seemed to be the cause of all the woes. Sorry I can't offer much more than that, I have not had to deal with this issue yet...We'll see how my '01 project fares soon though. Hopefully someone with more knowledge will chime in. Good luck!
     


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  6. mello dude

    mello dude Administrator

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    -- Yes the stator voltage test is supposed to be run unplugged from the R/R.

    But one more time, this is a strait up list of checking the charging system that I have posted.

    Go through all your connectors for burnt leads, dig deep. Crispy wires? Not good. Fix first!
    Then---Go through this starting point quick list. You will need a multimeter too.
    Steps:
    - Recharge battery overnite - then to take it to Autozone or similar to load test. -- Good? Bad? – An iffy battery can fake you out and act like a bad R/R. Buy new if needed.
    - With good battery fire it up, warm up for a minute or two.
    These are R/R quick checks---
    --- With voltmeter at battery get voltages -- idle volts? 5000 rpm volts? What’s the numbers? Should be in 13ish min idle and in 14s at revs. If in the 12s at idle, try at 1900 rpm.
    - Check stator
    - 1. Pull connector apart. Set meter to resistance. Check pin to pin, 3 yellow wires, A to B, B to C, C to A. What’s the numbers? 3 separate readings --Should be less than 1.0 ohms. (Engine off)
    - 2. Check continuity from each A,B,C pin to ground, -- -should be infinity - nada nothing. no continuity. -- 3 separate checks. (Engine off)
    - 3. Crank it back up. Do another pin to pin thing, but set meter on AC volts. idle and 5000 rpms. What's da numbers? Should start 15 -20ish and climb 50ish and more. Again – 3 readings
    - Repeat hot.
    This quick list will catch the obvious stuff, but if you need to dig deeper check this chart.
    http://www.electrosport.com/media/pdf/fault-finding-diagram.pdf


    -- Run the checks and write it down. On stator tests, 3 reading each test. All stator tests are connector unplugged.

    ------ Oh yeah, just a note, there was one guy with charging troubles that figured out that his voltmeter was effed up. So, check yours for a good battery and whatever to verify its ok.
    :cool:
     


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  7. Scubalong

    Scubalong Official Greeter?

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    I know mello dude will chimp in on this one :tongue:
     


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