VFR 750 1995 Engine Died

Discussion in 'Mechanics Garage' started by ChumleyWarner, Feb 2, 2017.

  1. ChumleyWarner

    ChumleyWarner New Member

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    Morning Folks

    Another pleading question from me. On my ride in to work this morning, the VFR cut out when travelling at about 60mph in 6th.

    The lights all stayed on. Rev counter still worked but the speedo dropped like I'd hit the kill switch (I hadnt). There were no mechanical noises or anything like that. As it cut out, the oil light came on. I rolled to a stop and swore a lot.

    I pulled over and it wouldn't start. Nothing from the starter motor. Hit the kill switch a few times, took the key out, etc. Nothing. Put the side stand up and down a few times to see if it was the switch and nothing. The oil level was the same as it was earlier this week.

    I had to push the thing 1/2 mile in the dark to a car park which was a nightmare. Got there and it's still the same. Not starting. Had to leave it as I was going to work.

    It didn't overheat, the reg/rec was replaced about 2 years ago with an aftermarket Tourtec one I think it's called. All lights, etc worked fine, didn't smell or anything.

    It's like the kill switch is on but it's not.

    Any ideas? I'm guessing it's electrical but wondered if there's anything obvious I'm missing. I've Google drive it and seen that it could be a number of issues.

    Many thanks

    CW
     
  2. ChumleyWarner

    ChumleyWarner New Member

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    Just for an update, I've just had the recovery chap come to collect the bike. He had a look to see if it was a simple fix. He poked about with a multi meter and decided the starter solenoid fuse had gone. He replaced the 10a fuse in the box under the clocks and the bike started and ran. He took it my house and we tried to start it and it wouldn't start. We replaced the fuse and it blew again. We put a 20a fuse in and that blew too.

    Thinking possibly a shorted wire somewhere?

    Cheers
     
    Last edited: Feb 2, 2017
  3. kennybobby

    kennybobby New Member

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    Isn't that supposed to be a 30A fuse--the one located on the starter relay/contactor? That fuse is in the main power line for the entire bike. You need to get the FSM, factory service manual.
     

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  4. ChumleyWarner

    ChumleyWarner New Member

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    Hi mate, cheers for the reply. It's the 10a one I think. The one that's in the fuse box at the front under the right hand mirror. I think he replaced the solenoid one and it's been fine. Cheers for the diagram too.

    Btw, my seat cowl was cracked when I got home after he'd recovered it. Bad times.
     
    Last edited: Feb 2, 2017
  5. ChumleyWarner

    ChumleyWarner New Member

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    Yet another update, I've been out and had a look, it seems the fuse blows as soon as the key is turned to on. Not when the ignition switch is pressed.

    My wife kindly reminded me that on Tuesday on my ride home, I got utterly soaked as did the bike. I'm thinking this may be related but it's got wet before.

    My plan is to check all the wires on the ignition circuit and see what's what. Clean out all the switchgear and dry if wet. Drink cups of tea in the process and not do any of the jobs the wife's given me to do.
     
  6. ChumleyWarner

    ChumleyWarner New Member

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    No takers?

    I'm going to pull the panels off old bus on Tuesday and check the wiring loom.

    I've done some research and it suggests its an earthed wire somewhere.
     
  7. rjgti

    rjgti New Member

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    take a look at the left handle bar switch gear first
     
  8. ChumleyWarner

    ChumleyWarner New Member

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    Will do mate. I'm guessing it's just for damage to the circuit?
     
  9. kennybobby

    kennybobby New Member

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    Does it blow the fuse to the Neutral indicator lamp or the other 10 A fuse to the run/kill switch? i.e. does the neutral lamp light up when you turn on the ignition? If so then check the starter button and the kill switch for shorting to ground from water,dirt, grime, etc.
     
  10. ChumleyWarner

    ChumleyWarner New Member

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    Morning mate

    It blows the ignition one. The neutral list stays on. We'll, ts always flickered but stays on. It blows as soon as you turn the key.
     
  11. ChumleyWarner

    ChumleyWarner New Member

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    I've just come in from the garage and I think I've solved it. I've cleaned out the right hand switchgear with WD40 and dried it off before starting pulling the bike to bits. I put a new fuse in to check and it's running lovely.

    I imagine the switchgear was filled with water when it rained and has shorted it out as you said.

    Many thanks for the advice. Now, what to do with the box of 50 10a fuses I bought this morning.

    Cheers

    CW
     
  12. kennybobby

    kennybobby New Member

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    Well that's good info to isolate the circuit that must be traced. i don't know what sort of tools you have available for troubleshooting electrical circuits--it's always tough to ring these things out.

    At the 10A fuse, there is a hot side that the 12V comes in, and a load side that is serviced by the fuse. If you can determine the load side, then the fuse can be removed and work from there. Then remove the 30 A fuse to remove power from the bike. Measure resistance from the load side to ground (it will be zero since there is a short), or use a continuity tester or beeper from the load side to ground (it will beep due to short). Now you can try to toggle the starter button to see if the short goes away, or trace the circuit to find the short. If you have access to compressed air it can be blown in and around all the switches to push any water around, etc. Good Luck to ya.
     
  13. ChumleyWarner

    ChumleyWarner New Member

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    Hi guys

    I've just come to use the bike today and it's blown the fuse again. Same thing. I've stripped the switchgear and cleaned it out. The wiring, etc looks new.

    I've worked out that if the kill switch is off, it doesn't blow the fuse when you turn the key to on. As soon as you turn the key to on, it pops. Likewise if you have the switch on when you turn the key, it pops straight away.

    Does this mean there's a short between the kill switch and the started solenoid? Or is it the other side of the circuit.

    Sorry if this sounds stupid but I'm useless when it comes to electronics.

    I've made a call for a quote to get a mobile mechanic out as I think I've met my skill limit when it comes to this.

    Cheers for any help.

    CW
     
    Last edited: Feb 9, 2017
  14. rjgti

    rjgti New Member

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    measure yellow/red to ground, looks like your engine starter solenoid or its wiring is grounded
     
  15. ChumleyWarner

    ChumleyWarner New Member

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    Brilliant, thanks mate. It's tea time here and I've got a trip to the Mother in Lards planned. I'll try when (if) I get back alive.
     
  16. ChumleyWarner

    ChumleyWarner New Member

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    Hi guys.

    Still working at this. I've put a new starter solenoid on and checked all the wires to it from the starter button and they're fine. The whole circuit appears fine to me and my meter.

    Could it be a short on the coils possibly? I've not had a chance to check them yet.

    I left it a few days and tried it and it started again then cut out after a few seconds and carried on blowing fuses.

    Im not sure its connected but since I've had the bike, the side stand cuts out the engine when it's in neutral after its been ridden for a while and you put it down. The neutral light flickers when it's warm too.

    I'm at a loss with this. I cancelled the mechanic as I thought I had it. Think it's time to get him out ��
     
  17. Terry Smith

    Terry Smith Member

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    I think your neutral light cut out is unrelated, but probably you just need a new neutral switch, should be a screw out/screw in job. The sidestand should not cut out the engine in neutral, just in gear.

    Given you said the fuse blows when you power the kill switch, I think the fault must lie in the black/white wire which powers the coils. Maybe some worn insulation somewhere that allows a ground to occur, logically I'd look where there is harness movement i.e. around the headstock. I doubt the starter solenoid can play any part in that as it is a different circuit.
     
  18. ChumleyWarner

    ChumleyWarner New Member

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    Brilliant, thanks mate. The wire had indeed rubbed on the frame where it runs to coil 3. However, this had obviously happened before and the insulation tape whoever fixed it had put on had collected some water. I'm assuming that's what it was because with it cleaned out, it's going fine now.

    Just need to put the thing back together. What a nightmare for such a small problem.

    Cheers for all the advice.

    CW
     
  19. ChumleyWarner

    ChumleyWarner New Member

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    Just got home after pushing the old girl home. Same issue. Got in and checked the connection. Tested it and fine.

    Put a new fuse in and it ran. Revved it and it cut out. Same again a few times but noted it ran longer after I pulled the switchgear wires.

    I pulled the cover back and it looks like the small wire joining the kill switch to the starter switch might be dicky as it runs better when these are manipulated. They are connected fine, etc so can't see an issue.

    I'll have another fettle tomorrow. Let you know how it goes.
     
  20. ChumleyWarner

    ChumleyWarner New Member

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    Right. Finally got it sorted. Ordered a new switchgear off ebay and the bloke I was buying it off asked about the issue. He said to disconnect the fuel pump and see if it still did it. It didn't. I put a new fuel pump on and it runs fine. Done about 50 miles since with no problems.

    Suspect the pump has siezed. Causing loads of power to be drawn maybe? No idea but its sorted now.

    Many thanks for the advice.

    CW
     
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