Won't Crank 86 700

Discussion in '1st & 2nd Generation 1983-1989' started by Dr.Инженер, May 17, 2019.

  1. Dr.Инженер

    Dr.Инженер New Member

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    Morning,
    To make a long story short , (33k miles on the speedo) I have had the bike for about a month. It did crank when I got it. No it hasn't fired up yet. The PO did a hack job on the carbs and now that is another beer I'm figuring out. Currently trying to do a compression test to see if the bikes worth putting money into. Can't do a compression test if I cannot get it to crank.

    Now the bike won't crank with the START button. If I cross terminals on the solenoid by the battery it will crank. Battery with a multimeter reads 11.6. Reading to the solenoid is same. No change on reading to the solenoid when I push the button but the lights dim as though it's trying. We may have nocked something in transportation.

    Where do I start?
     
  2. cbx1260cc

    cbx1260cc New Member

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    Am hopeful for you that it could be something as simple as the connectors in the START / STOP switch. Seperate the halves of the switch at the bars and try some electrical contact cleaner and a general "go through" . Hope that does the trick.

    Rick
     
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  3. Dr.Инженер

    Dr.Инженер New Member

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    "Am hopeful" that concerns me.
     
  4. cbx1260cc

    cbx1260cc New Member

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    Worry NOT. If it's more serious than that there are MANY helpful enthusiasts here more than willing to help. You have to have a place to start and the switch is an easy step to work through.
    Best of luck.
     
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  5. fink

    fink Insider

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    Check out the starter button
     
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  6. squirrelman#1

    squirrelman#1 New Member

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    pull out the headlight fuse while you're working on the bike (far right). a healthy battery is around 12.6 volts, so your seems low. if you can get it tuning over by jumping the starter relay, that's OK for compression testing.

    check the manual to see what factors can inhibit cranking: in gear, not in neutral, clutch switch, lockout diode, etc. don't take switches apart until you check continuity (or not) at the plugs first.
     
    Last edited: May 17, 2019
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  7. Dr.Инженер

    Dr.Инженер New Member

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    I know, I can do compression test by crossing the solenoid... but I could not leave it alone...tested these in this order
    1. start button~Good
    2. clutch switch~Good
    3. Neutral Switch~Good
    4. Solenoid switch~ Good
    5. Clutch Diode~ Good

    All good. No where else to go but start examining the wiring harness. Figure i'd start by the tree, first wire harness I grabbed and what do I see..smashed wires. So I spliced them together and with fingers crossed what cranks....YUP....she turning over again. Now I can do the compression test.

     
  8. squirrelman#1

    squirrelman#1 New Member

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    that could be rodent damage. i am an expert.
     
  9. Dr.Инженер

    Dr.Инженер New Member

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    Now this bugs me...one of the PO's was a Walmart rattle can weekend hero and painted over the beautiful white paint this bike use to be. At first I thought the bike was black with the OG paint job going bad. But nope, bad rattle can job. I get it, if the paint is bad from gas pours or negligence, repaint it correctly. But there's nothing like a/any vintage bike with original style fairings and original style paint.
     
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