6th Gen Heli Bar Install - See It Before You Try It!

One suggestion i would add to this for the damper removal is to use the tabs at the very end of the bar to remove the locking mechanism. It makes it much easier to get the retaining tabs out because you can see both at the same time. Insert a flat head screwdriver on each side and just twist. Once they are out about a quarter inch you can simply pull the damper out by the bar end. Slow, steady pressure gets the job done best.

 

Great job on the how-to -- installed mine the first week I owned the bike-Highly recommend it---I_needit, I raised mine to be flush with the top of the fork, leaving a gap underneath

 

Thank you for the write up. Even though it's a old thread it helped me through the process. Great job and very detailed.

 

I installed my heli bars last night on my 2007 without looking at this post. I've rebuilt bikes before, so not an issue. I am having a problem with the bottom switch cover not sitting properly at the throttle cables. This is not allowing me to fasten the two halves of the switch cover completely. Does anyone have any suggestions? Need to get this figured out before I put the new Kuryakun Iso Grips on so I can ride the bike again.

Adam

 

Its sounds like you have not aligned the two halves of the switch correctly - the key thing to note is that there is a small locating pin on the switch which you need to line up with a hole in the bars. Take the switch off and look closely where it clamps around the bar and you will see the pin. Once you locate the pin the whole thing should snug down and the jobs and good un


Skimad4x4 - 6th Gen Militia # 218 - European 1st Division

 

Keith...This how-to has been around a bit but is still incredibly explanatory... I may do this myself (feeling it in the wrists!). I'm a little unclear on removing the brake line locator tab--is it just that little metal piece? And how is it necessary to the end product (Helibars) installed? Thanks again, seems a great tutorial and I will be using it!

 

Personally I would definitely remove the lugs especially as its a potential safety issue and they are pretty simple to remove. They are soft metal so a junior hacksaw will do the job in 2 minutes - just take your time and once their gone, loosen the banjo bolt just enough to rotate the pipe around so its pointing more downwards. As long as you just ease the connection then you won't loose a drop of fluid and won't need to mess with bleeding the hose lines.

If you don't remove the lugs the stock hoses will be pretty taught especially when on full lock which may result in excessive stress on the hoses and ultimately result in the line rupturing.


Skimad4x4
Proud Member 6th Gen Militia #218 - European First Division

 

Hi, TexVet. You said you had heated grips installed. I had the same bike as you, and with heated grips too, but I'm worried about how to get off the grips without damaging them. Could you help me? Thanks a lot!

 

I have a Givi windscreen and it just moved the air straight into my face. It's actually worse than the lower stock windscreen where you're pretty much getting the brunt like an open bike.

 

This writeup was VERY helpful in installing my heli bars. Thank you!!

 

I had Helis installed on my 08 about 3 - 4 months ago. Was highly disappointed, as they didn't really seem to make much of a difference, other than being a bit higher and it's been gnawing at me. Eventually, earlier this week I called Heli to speak with a tech rep about it. The tech rep turned out to be Harry, the Pres. of the company. I explained to him that I wanted to share some feedback regarding the lack of change and to also make him aware of some QC issues. When I started to explain that the shop who installed them had to drill holes that were missing he said "let me stop you right there, as I know exactly what's going on". He went on to explain that the shop had installed them on the wrong side/s and that this was a very common occurrence with local shop installations. When I asked if have the extra holes would cause problems when switched back he said no.
So after a quick phone to the shop manager a return was set up. In the mean time I found this thread and it was/is fantastic. Printed off a couple of the photos and was able to actually show the manager and tech. today what a properly installed system is supposed to looks like. No arguments, but much embarrassment.

HUGE difference in riding ergo and no clearance issues with the tank/upper fairing.

I'm sure many will make comment not to return to this shop, but unfortunately this is a classic example of what you have to deal with in this town. There's not a lot of choice locally and it's a loooong drive/ride to the big city. And my skill sets don't include mechanical ability.

BIG Thanks to the original thread starter.

 

Good to hear that Helibar gave you good advice, bad that it happened in the first place. If the shop had just looked at the bars closely they would have seen they are marked "L"eft and "R"ight. Sometimes you just gotta wonder where some of these guys get their training, if they in fact even have any.

Glad that it all worked out okay though. And the shop didn't try to charge you fix their foul-up. :smile-new:

 

On my 04, there is a retaining clip on the fork tube that had to be removed to get the bars on and off. It's a wire ring you can peel off with your fingernails. Check for that if it seems like the old bars won't come off easily.

I didn't take the dampeners out of the old bars, just stuck some vibrinators in the heli's. made the whole thing go down smooth.

 

I was thinking about changing my bars and adding a set of vibrinators but does anyone know the difference between heli's and convertibars I like the idea of being able to switch between higher position for long rides and lower position for the twisties

 

Following on from this thread has anybody any experience of these bars.
http://www.bikermart.co.uk/proddeta...RTNER=Google&gclid=CImi3bHzrMICFcoBwwodmqAAdQ

 

Or these.
http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/160642388267?_trksid=p2055119.m1438.l2649&ssPageName=STRK:MEBIDX:IT

 

jimlowe: are those meant to be put on the bike, or for mending the plumbing? Look a bit suspect.

 

The thing to remember about heli's as opposed to risers or anything else, is that the heli's don't just elevate you, they pull back. It's like if you put your clip-on's backwards. Keep that in mind as you look at clipons, even adjustable ones. Or risers. Going up an inch is one thing, going up an inch and back an inch is something else altogether.

 

Take your point dave,had helibars on my last VFR,thy are pretty expensive over here though.

 

Jim

You won't be the first faced with that dilemma. Several others on here started out by first installing the far cheaper - riser option, before eventually deciding to save up the pennies and install Helibars - and potentially recoup some of the cost when they sold on the old risers.

As Dave mentions the Helibars move the bar position up and towards you, pretty much as far as you possibly can go without hitting the screen or tank on full lock or having to extend cables and brake lines. Whilst fitting a riser will help a bit, the improvement is nowhere near as much as the difference achieved by fitting genuine Helibars - in terms of the load being carried on your wrists and your ability to enjoy (rather than endure) longer rides. It's your choice what you do, but if you opt for other solutions realise that they will probably entail accepting a compromise which will mean they won't give you the greatest improvement. The obvious other option is to scour the likes of eBay, Craigs List, Exchange & Mart and Gumtree for someone selling a used set of Helibars - they do come up from time to time - but they tend to go within hours. At the moment there is a set for the 1200 VFR for just £100 on sale in Nottingham - shame they won't fit your 800.



SkiMad