98 R1 fork swap

Guess what I picked up today

 

Beyond happy with how the fairings and wheels turned out, from here its on to brake lines, the Rapid Bike and tuning, cant wait!

 

What is the upside of going through the extreme amount of faffing about of swapping forks vs. installing Racetech or Daugherty fork internals in the stock forks instead? You'll still have to revalve and respring the R1 forks to account for the VFR's totally different dynamics from an R1. Front/rear spring and damping rates have to be matched and based on weight distribution.

 

Basically because I can, yes I could just buy Daugherty forks but that's been done before and frankly could be done by a monkey. I wanted to do something different, plus the upside down forks look undeniably better than then right side up ones.

 

Got the new Magazi mirrors today, quality is excellent and they are much more adjustable, LEDs are also brighter. Super happy with them overall and would recommend them.

Also mounted the front fairing and drilled the positioning holes for the handlebar controls.

 

Sadly I have fallen victim to the dreaded Reg Rec failure, trying to source a Mosfet unit at the moment, any recommendations?

 

Just did the stator checks, results below:

Check 1 (Resistance phase to ground)

- Phase 1: 0
- Phase 2: 0
- Phase 3: 0

I'm assuming the zeroes are infinite resistance

Check 2 (Resistance phase to phase)

- Phase 1-2: 0.3 ohms
- Phase 1-3: 0.1 ohms
- Phase 2-3: 6 ohms

Check 3 (VAC phase to ground)

- Phase 1: ~ 10v
- Phase 2: ~ 10v
- Phase 3: ~ 10v

Check 4 (VAC phase to phase)

- Phase 1-2: ~ 19v
- Phase 1-3: ~ 19v
- Phase 2-3: ~ 19v

Check 5 (VAC with reg/rec plugged in phase to phase)

- Phase 1-2: ~ 1.2v
- Phase 1-3: ~ 1.2v
- Phase 2-3: ~ 10v

So I'm guessing stator issue rather than reg/rec, hopefully someone can shed some light.

 

Bump, anyone got input, I have browsed previous threads but I'd appreciate some first hand advice/opinions.

 

Looking Great, Congrats =)

 

Thanks she's a beaut!

 

0 Ohms means continuity but a reading so low that you aren't able to see the actual number on your device. If it has ranges, then shift down to lower ranges. If it is autoranging, there you go, the limits of its abilities to read accurately. 0 Ohms represents a short, shortest path, between electrical devices. With a piece of wire, simplified here, it acts like 0 Ohms, no resistance to the flow of electrons-->a good thing.

Now do not do this! Just for explanation's sake! If you were to drop a wrench across the terminals of a fully charged car battery...boom! Why, zero resistance would mean infinite current would flow nearly instantaneously. Now Mr. Physics steps in; there is a limit, the current limit of the battery; but you get that all at once. I = V/R. Dividing by zero, you get it. Now on the other hand, an infinite reading would suggest an open circuit, infinite resistance. There could be voltage, BUT no current will flow (unless its a huge voltage, think spark gap machine).

Anyway, not looking at the manual, it appears that one of the phases of the stator (three phases) is a bit burnt. IIRC, the range should be 0.5 to 2 Ohms for each phase to phase reading. Another clue is the 6 Ohm reading. Remember the 0 Ohm thing, piece of wire? Well 6 Ohms is not a piece of wire. It will cause a voltage drop on that phase and will not present the same voltage as the other outputs comparatively respectively.

 

Just checked my '04 briefly. Toooo many mosquitoes outside!

Phase to phase read .3 Ohms on each combination. Now that's with some serious soot on each terminal end. Cleaning may yield a bit lower after all of that has been rectified. Rectified! Get it! Maybe not. Maybe so. Pun sorta intended. 0.3 Ohms looks good. Manual says 0.1 to 1 Ohms is correct. Check.

No continuity or 0L (overload, infinity, beyond range of this device) from each phase to ground. Check.

That 6 Ohm reading is wildly out of spec. Recheck. If it is repeatable with a good procedure, replace that stator. It has a burnt phase.

 

Thanks for doing the checks! I'll re-check the the resistance but looks like I'll be getting a new stator

 

Here we are, this is possibly the last major post for this build...

Today I received the last pieces of the puzzle along with something very special

Ignition adaptor plate picked up and mounted, 3mm thick stainless steel laser cut, works perfectly just need to space out the ignition correctly so it fits the steering lock. New brake lines also arrived, will get around to mounting and bleeding them soon.






And the moment I've been very excited for *drumroll*

..........
......
...
..
.

RAPID BIKE RACING HAS ARRIVED!








And a shot of the sexy throttle position sensor in action:



My impressions of the Rapid Bike Racing so far:

The quality is outstanding, far better than power commanders I've used in the past. The unit has a very nice metal housing and feels sturdy. Likewise the wiring is well laid out and excellent quality.

The provided instructions were clear and installation was a breeze, it was also easy to get the software set up and unit plugged in to my laptop so I could start fiddling with settings.

The youtune module is nothing short of awesome, it allows on the fly control of quickshift, engine braking, traction control, launch control, air fuel ration (if you have the tuning sensor) and exact rpm readout/ lock.

I've also been blow away by the communication I've had with the company, their customer service has been nothing short of exemplary so they get a big thumbs up from me :thumbsup:

Can't wait to get her tuned up and out on the road :biggrin:

 

God I love this thread. Great stuff. I just saw the Rapid Bike socks, where'd you get those? I need a pair of those lol. Did you go through Cycle Pro/ Yaman on the Rapid Bike? When you get a chance, could you please post up some screen shots of the ignition map? I haven't seen what the 5th gen ignition mapping looks like yet? As far as your stator issues, Like Ridenout said, it seems the stator has shorted, I would pick up a new oem stator and an SH847 or FH020 rr kit from WWW.RoadsterCycle.com while you're at it.

 

Sock came with the package, also got a couple of stickers and a pen :biggrin:

I went through the Australian head office, they were an absolute pleasure to work with!

I'll grab a couple of screenshots tomorrow for you :thumb:

 

Aw shit, I need to go to cycle pro and try to squeeze some rapid bike swag out of them. All I got were these stickers lol.

Anyways yeah I'm just wondering what the max ignition advance over the factory mapping is. I'm thinking maybe 2 or 3 degrees in the mid range.

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Ignition map:



Cylinders 1+4:



Cylinders 2+3:

 

Very interesting. That's totally different that the 6th gen ignition mapping. So you should mainly feel the benefit of added low end, partial throttle torque. With a little bit of added mid range and full throttle top end also.

PS be sure to have premium fuel in the tank before riding.

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