How to fix common regulator/Stator failures

Discussion in '5th Generation 1998-2001' started by Rubo, Jul 7, 2012.

  1. Rubo

    Rubo New Member

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    I decided to post everything related to stator and regulator failures and solutions.

    1st.Why such common failures.I believe problem is caused by stators thin low grade wires and the connection plug to regulator.Plug is poorly designed and any moisture,wire heating causes the plug to melt thus shorting the stator.It does not help that old style regulators produce lot of heat which contribute to melting.[​IMG]
    Some soldered these 3 yellow wires directly to regulator but it does not solve the old style regulator which is prone to overheat and fail usually miles away on the road.
    To have a peace of mind here are some solutions.

    1.You want 04 or newer Yamaha R1 regulator.Must be mosfet (new cooler design. numbers must start with FHO11AA FH is new design SH is old design which is stock and runs very hot.Lot of guys installed computer pc fans to help cooling but honestly why not just install more efficient unit which runs cool and you can actually put your hand on it.)
    here is one on ebay to give you an idea
    2005 2006 Yamaha R1 YZFR1 Voltage Regulator Rectifier PN FHO11AA | eBay
    I bought one $80 on ebay.

    You slightly cut the fins part touching the rear fairing to fit.It won't damage regulator since as you can see it has very long fins.
    You want to buy plug in wiring from here.Nice heavy duty
    R/R Connectors
    great wiring straight to battery with a fuse holder plus 2 fuses 1extra $25 nice deal.
    Part A - the Battery Connection
    FH012/010 Connectors with Leads
    Stator connection.I recommend solder direct stator wires and eliminate this weak point.Heat shrink wrap and you'll fine your bike will run better.
    By doing the wiring this way you bypass factory set up which is not designed well.
    more info here
    http://vfrworld.com/forums/mechanic...yamaha-r1-regulator-work-5th-gen-vfr-how.html

    Input by Mello Dude
    Just some info --- the latest R1 part number is -- Yamaha part # 1D7-81960-01-00 and can be had over at RonAyers for around $135.

    Or if you want to buy a complete kit the same is a Shindengen FH020AA and can be bought at
    Roadstercycle-Index

    Regulator test
    [video=youtube;r3mqG7f7qu8]http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=r3mqG7f7qu8[/video]
    watch it from 10.30sec

    [​IMG]
     
    Last edited: Jul 7, 2012
    RobVG likes this.
  2. Rubo

    Rubo New Member

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    Stator check .I like this video.It covers lot of basics
    [video=youtube;ZRz9U-2i6-4]http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=ZRz9U-2i6-4[/video]



    Stator Test

    Get a Volt meter, charge the battery, let it rest for a couple of hours then check the voltage should be 12.7V or higher for a fully charged battery in good condition.
    Now disconnect the rectifier/regulator from the alternator, normally 3 yellow wires on a Honda, then set the meter to OHM's (resistance) then measure the resistance between each of the wires on the alternator side plug. It should be less than 1 ohm & then measure each wire to earth, as in the frame of the bike or engine bolt, it should not read. If that checks out, then the alternator is fine.

    To check the output of stator
    1.disconnect the plug going to regulator
    2.Set voltmeter to AC
    3.Attach probes to yellow wires (make sure they don't touch each-other otherwise you will short the stator.I suggest wrapping with electrical tape)
    4.Start the bike
    5. Reading should be 20v or higher depending on RPM. I suggest keep same RPM and test all 3 wires to see if their output is the same.If any wires put out significantly less output then others then you have failed unit.
     
  3. Rubo

    Rubo New Member

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    Optional info

    When I had to replace my stator I had difficulty opening stator cover.Reason is Honda gasket has glue which really creates strong binding.Someone here suggested using rubber millet on the side cover and it worked.I really sweated on that one.
    Being frugal and imaginative I decided to make my own gasket from cereal box paper.
    Steps.
    1.smear some motor oil on the cover and lay over the paper and lift creating nice outline where to cut.
    2.Cut with blade and use paper punch for holes.
    3.Smear bicycle or any grease lightly on paper both sides before installing.
    4.Tight everything up but not super tight.Check torque settings.

    Notes
    You can buy gasket paper from auto store if cereal paper does not sound right to you.I installed mine with zero leaks.Advantage next time I am there I wont scrape that glue and won't be down 18 dollars which Honda charges for piece of paper.

    for amusement check this old style mechanic making gasket.
    [video=youtube;6rx5hGKt1PY]http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=6rx5hGKt1PY[/video]
     
    Last edited: Jul 7, 2012
  4. 34468 Randy

    34468 Randy Member

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    I found that if you just go to Vegas, burn the shit out of your stator, then drop into Racer's Edge there, you can get an aftermarket brought in from Wisconsin because to OEM's are back ordered for a considerable time.

    89 Stator.jpg

    I have to say again, they looked after me quite well as did my hostess while ai was there.

    But thanks for this post.
     
  5. Rubo

    Rubo New Member

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    Another video showing Stator Test.
    [video=youtube;SyNYlaoInUE]http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=SyNYlaoInUE&feature=related[/video]
    Get a Volt meter, charge the battery, let it rest for a couple of hours then check the voltage should be 12.7V or higher for a fully charged battery in good condition.
    Now disconnect the rectifier/regulator from the alternator, normally 3 yellow wires on a Honda, then set the meter to OHM's (resistance) then measure the resistance between each of the wires on the alternator side plug. It should be less than 1 ohm & then measure each wire to earth, as in the frame of the bike or engine bolt, it should not read. If that checks out, then the alternator is fine.

    Everyone should be easily able to do these tests after watching the vids and reading the steps.Before you take the bike to mechanic perform these tests yourself and possibly save hundreds of dollars.
     
  6. Rubo

    Rubo New Member

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    Some helpful tips on metripack connections which works with Yamaha R1 regulator
    MP280 Help
    I wished I saw this page before installing mine R1 regulator.I did it without soldering 1st and my output was not good.Realizing my mistake I had to undo my metri connection and pull out the connections and solder them.Be careful soldering.Steps and images are in the link.Below image is an example.
    [​IMG]

    Key here is not overdoing because the connection wont slide into its place in the plug.Worth reading all the steps on the link.
     
  7. Pliskin

    Pliskin New Member

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    Rubo - I know you're trying to help people out here, and I think that's a great. But to go and slam someone calling it junk doesn't really help. What are you basing your statements on? Personal experience? Word of mouth? Survey's showing that 7 out of 10 users who installed Ricks failed?

    I'm not affiliated with Ricks or JT from Wiremybike (who sells Ricks products). But I will definitely vouch for JT and his products.

    Sorry that you must of had a bad experience, but I'll disagree with your statement,

    For those reading this thread and contemplating purchasing - They are not junk.
     
  8. Rubo

    Rubo New Member

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    Based on my personal experience however I did delete that post entirely.Thank you
     
  9. mello dude

    mello dude Member

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    Rubo - good idea to throw out there a catch all thread for charging stuff. We can then just copy the thread link for people.
    - That videos in posts 2 & 5 are pretty good.

    ---------------------

    - I'll throw in my stuff that I have been posting - here's the quick test summary for charging. -

    The Drill

    -Looks like you gotta do…. “The Drill.” ----:eek:hwell:----
    Go through all your connectors for burnt leads, dig deep. Crispy wires? Not good. The stator connector is the number one burn it up connector on the bike. - Your gonna have to fix that!

    Then---Go through this starting point quick list. You will need a multimeter too.

    Steps: ---
    - Recharge battery overnite - then to take it to Autozone or similar to load test. -- Good? Bad? – An iffy battery can fake you out and act like a bad R/R. Buy new if needed.

    - With good battery fire it up, warm up for a minute or two.

    These are R/R quick checks---
    --- With voltmeter at battery posts get voltages -- idle volts? 5000 rpm volts? What’s the numbers? Should be in 13ish min idle and in 14s at revs. (if in the 12s at idle, check at about 1900rpms instead. Its not unusual for the system to be in discharge at idle. )

    - Check stator - These tests are done checking the connector that goes to the stator. (Engine off)
    1. Pull connector apart. Set meter to resistance. Check pin to pin, 3 yellow wires, A to B, B to C, C to A. What’s the numbers? 3 separate readings --Should be less than 1.0 ohms.

    - 2. Check continuity from each A,B,C pin to ground, -- -should be infinity - nada nothing. no continuity. -- 3 separate checks. (Connector still apart, engine off)

    - 3. Crank it back up. Do another pin to pin thing, but set meter on AC volts. idle and 5000 rpms. What's da numbers? Should start 15 -20ish and climb 50ish and more. Again – 3 readings- (Again, connector apart)

    (Updated Sept 2016)
    There have been a few misinterpretations so I am revising the notes.....

    IF you can find the problem while the bike is shall we say cold, then there is no need to do it hot.
    But if it come out on the stator test to seem to show no clues, then do it hotish, ( before the fan would kick in)

    Hope this helps gang.

    This quick list will catch the obvious stuff, but if you need to dig deeper check this chart. (Some guys like this chart, my taste, I don’t care for it.)
    http://www.electrosport.com/media/pdf/fault-finding-diagram.pdf

    Sept 2016
    Since this was written, the number of guys that have followed this and figured out what to do has got to be in the hundreds.....


    Beers to all ....
     
    Last edited: Oct 5, 2016
  10. mello dude

    mello dude Member

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    ****Resources for wiring and connectors****

    Crimp tool for Metri-Pack connector and good general info on connections and parts -
    Welcome to Waytek


    Waytek Catalog – great resource and information
    Waytek Catalog 224

    Connector Source – Performance Connection Systems – PCS – Metri-Pack – Fast shipping
    Delphi Metri-pack 280 Connectors, Metripack 280 terminals, Metri-pack 280 terminals

    PCS - Performance Connection Systems, Delphi, Tyco, Deutsch, Bussman, Connectors, Relays, Circuit breakers, wire, terminals

    ^^^^ These guys seem to have gone defunct. (Jan 2015)
    New connector source
    http://www.cycleterminal.com/index.html

    Miscellaneous wire ‘em up parts – Rick's plug and play R/Rs and stators, VFR electric parts- Tightwad
    Wire My Bike

    More wire up stuff and 4 ft strips of heat shrink, lotsa cool stuff, crimp tools including MetriPack
    Del City - Wiring Products and Professional Electrical Supplies

    If you have a local Becker Electric, the counter walkup is very good too.
    http://www.beckerelectric.com/beckeronline.php


    Info on crimping
    Marine Wire Termination Photo Gallery by Compass Marine at pbase.com
    Crimping Tools - for purchase or rent

    Miscellaneous electric supply links
    good stator connectors?

    R/R
    www.roadstercycle.com (Jan 2015)
     
    Last edited: Jan 3, 2015
  11. mello dude

    mello dude Member

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    Update July 2018 - Since I seem lately to be the neighborhood bike geek that can be suckered into working for beers, I have evolved to either doing the solder and heat shrink thing or have done the double wire overlap with 10 gauge copper butt connector thing, double pro-crimp it and then heat shrink.... works nice and no issues. (I re-did my own bike this way.) ---The connector below now seems a bit complicated and over-kill and costs more bucks.
    Cycle terminal is still a great resource.
    ----------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------
    If I do this job again, I'm going with the MetriPack 630s rated at 46 amps, serious cajones for the stator connector.

    New connector source --- Lots of motorcycle connectors! Good prices! (Jan 2015)
    http://www.cycleterminal.com/index.html

    The connector is a pick and choose thing so you can match wire gauges to the correct terminal for a custom set up. You need a good quality automotive crimp tool or a crimp tool and solder the joint like Rubo's post -- #6 above.

    [​IMG]
     
    Last edited: Jul 31, 2018
  12. rangemaster

    rangemaster New Member

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    This needs to be pinned.
    Thank you.
     
  13. mello dude

    mello dude Member

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    UPDATING APRIL 2018 -- IGNORE NOTE BELOW. - There are newer Shindengen R/Rs that are the only one to go with.... Fh020AA and SH847 -- use anything else at your own peril...No Ricks, No Electrosport... No OEM.
    ----------------------------

    If you are a serious geek and can do a super sano job on wiring, there is good argument to go with a Compufire series R/R. Less stress on the stator, thus longer stator life, somewhat cooler running engine. (Not going into the technical explaination here.)

    The caveats ---
    - Cost more, you have to do your own wire and connector job and because it was designed as a Harley part, Compufire wont offer a warranty for it if you use it on a VFR. Installation wise you have to cut a strip wires, crimp and/or solder connectors, heat schink tubing, use high quality butt connectors. - You see what I'm getting at, there's no installation directions. You get the part and have to figure it out. - Still if you do the research behind it, the design has a lot of merit and there are some to decide its the best technical solution to "perma-fix" the job. I went this way as did some others. (Please, if you do a half ass job on this one, your wasting your bucks, dont bother.)

    UPDATE JAN 2015 - I like very much how a series R/R performs, but at the present time, no manufacture has one that will handle over time reliably the higher revs of sporting motorcycle. There have been several failures of the CF R/R that eat it at high revs. And While for the moment I am still running mine, I do see that it is giving hints that its days may be numbered, with higher voltage spikes on the voltmeter. (damn) As I said, I do like the way the bike performs, some what cooler running, and maybe a but dyno faster, but I expect in the next season, I'm gonna have to go with the FH020AA for a replacement.
    -I'm still a series R/R fan, but maybe Shindengen will come out with the 50 amp design,and I'll go for that.
    -- Note June 2018 --- that 50 amp series we have been waiting for is the SH847.

    Link and install

    COMPU-FIRE 40A 3-PHASE CHARGING SYSTEMS
    http://www.amazon.com/Compu-Fire-Re...ords=COMPU-FIRE++40A+3-PHASE+CHARGING+SYSTEMS


    Compufire R/R install wrap - up on a 5th gen (finally) - Electrical - VFR Discussion

    More technical data
    http://vfrworld.com/forums/mechanic...rence-series-style-design-such-compufire.html
     
    Last edited: Jul 31, 2018
  14. mello dude

    mello dude Member

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    Update July2018
    My understanding is that Gary at custom rewind has MS and is difficult to talk to on the phone.
    Be patient and I hear he still does a good job.. I have a stator in the tool box I am sending to him soon.

    Other stator sources----


    My rides stator is fine, but if I need one, I am tempted to go to this guy - Gary at custom rewind.
    CUSTOMREWIND.COM

    He will do the job any way you want - stock or he'll bump wire gauges up if you want. Well that's one of the achilles heels of the stocker, the 16 guage stator wire could stand to be at least 14 or 12. Prices are very fair too.- I would just ask for extra stator wire length, so while I'm at it I can use a MetriPack connector with it.
    Some on the "other" site have gone that way and it worked out fine.
    --------------------

    Best prices for stock replacement ---- and damn near any OEM part

    Honda Motorcycle Parts
     
    Last edited: Jul 31, 2018
  15. Rubo

    Rubo New Member

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    Mello Dude
    Thank you for all your outstanding useful posts.It was my intention to have all regulator/stator related posts in one thread and be it a sticky hopefully
    I really think your links are great resource
     
  16. mello dude

    mello dude Member

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    Rubo - back at 'cha, your idea. Thxxzz... But the thread is overdue, we keep repeating the same debug job. Now we can say go here......
     
  17. Rubo

    Rubo New Member

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    please mods make this a sticky.Lot of people keep asking the same questions.
     
  18. rjgti

    rjgti New Member

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  19. vfrcapn

    vfrcapn Member

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    Interesting and a lot of good tips.

    That first pic in the OP was a pic of my stator connector taken 12/09. This was the other end, little damage:

    [​IMG]

    I cut that out and spliced in some heavier wires, just twisted and wrapped at the stator end and using crimp connectors at the r/r side. That lasted until April '11, the crimp connectors showed obvious heat damage and the twisted and wrapped side had burnt completely through.

    [​IMG]

    [​IMG]

    I removed all that and soldered in a splice on the stator side but still used crimp conectors towards the r/r side.

    That lasted until yesterday.

    [​IMG]

    The soldered connections at the other end still looked fine, no heat damage. Cutting out the connectors though left me without enough wire length so I soldered in a new splice at both ends. Bike was running fine today with good voltages.

    I guess I'll know in about 18 months if the soldered connections at both ends solve the issue. I'm planning to add a voltmeter soon to keep an eye on it.
     
  20. mello dude

    mello dude Member

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    ^^^^ your experience really confirms that the stator wiring is undersized and you just have to assume that its going to be a maintenance item. --- Its a 30 amp joint, so -- is all the hardware you are using beefy enuff to handle the current?

    Going to a MOSFET or series R/R may help.
     
    Last edited: Feb 22, 2013
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