LSL Handlebar Kit

Does anyone know where to purchase an LSL Handlebar conversion kit for a 6th Gen VFR? I found pictures of an install on this link:

https://www.twistedthrottle.com/imagecatalogue/image/list/425/

I found some on Spiegler for $289.00, but you can't order from them:

LSL Superbike Handlebar Kits

I could not, after several hours searching, find a place to buy them online. If you can find that out, or, if you have installed a set, let me know. Any help would be appreciated.

 

LSL Handlebars

I shot one of their distrubuters in my area an e-mail. Thanks.

 

I Just installed the LSL Kit on my '07 last Fall. Works Great and absolutely love it. Just ordered a set of High Bars though because I found that it still isn't as upright as I'd like it to be - granted it's much better then stock already.

Spiegler/LSL will sell them to you directly. I bought them from a rep named Mathias. Here's the Order Information I placed:

2007 VFR LSL Riser Kit P/N Z120H098 with $20.00 Gold Bar Upgrade and $20.00 Slim Black Bar Ends.

Order Summary
$279.99 Riser Kit
$19.99 Gold Bar Upgrade
$19.99 Slim Black Bar Ends
= $319.97 (No Taxes – Shipping from Ohio)
+ UPS Shipping of $13.28
= Total of: $332.23 (Quoted per Mathias)

Now just some words of wisdom.

The Slim bar ends from Spiegler are a joke! I can almost slide them inside the Spiegler Bars. Don't even bother with bar ends. Just make the OEM's work. You can grind down the center part to fit inside the tube, then use some rubber hose, a longer screw, washer and end-nut to draw the tube and bunch it up - like the aftermarket ones do. If you're interested let me know, I will pull mine and picture them to show you.

The Throttle Cable Routing they explain - I never figured it out. The Routing procedure takes you into the frame or below and behind the forks - I don't know. I had to route them above the tank fasteners in front of the steering head. Routing them like stock is the best way - BUT, they are too short with the new bars. I am waiting for my high bars before I get them extended. I think it can be done by various delaerships or shops. It's actually very easy. But I want to do it myself. It's a lot like extending a bicycle cable - same materials, just different end barrels to crimp on the cables. A note on this: I had to remove my left side black plastic inner cover to allow room for the cable to bend - don't be suprised if you have to do the same till you get them extended.

They state in the "prototype" instructions (which bothered me for obvious reasons) that one of the brake lines, but not both had to be rerouted, and the other one could be left in the factory routing. BS. They both need to be disconnected with the cylinder drained first, and moved from the inside of that sides fork to the outside - basically running straight down and sagging forward slightly. Then reconnect the lines, fill the resevoirs, pinch the lines midway down, and consisently work the cable bending it - this forces the air upward caught in the banjo bolt, fitting, and around the seals and cylinder - takes about all of 2 minutes for each side to clear the air out (that's the easy way). And alltogether the Cables work out well actually. They work out even better when you get a high bar (I made a mockup by stacking the left and right riser on top of eachother which brings it backward and up more, and raised the clamp 3/4" to similuate a high bar...so I'd know).

You need to figure out the set point of the bar before you lock them down. Tighten the riser caps down to the risers snuggly. Then slip on the grips or make a mockup, and rotate the bar till they feel right. Once you've done that - mark the bar with a marker where the risers meet to an edge so you know just where they were set just in case. Then you need to fit the controls on - this is not mentioned in the directions. You need to drill a hole in the bars for the metal detent/tab in the left and right controls - these keep the grips and controls from rotating. It's easy to do honestly. Just make sure you get it right the first time I would imagine.

Other then that it's farily simple.

I would like to note that my resevoirs just hit the backside of the windscreen black plastic moldings. I haven't found a position where they wouldn't. But it's never been a problem for me because I don't ever turn it to till it full locks and touches unless I'm in a parking lot; never at speed.


My Impressions of the Bar:

Holy crap - you can breathe so much better. Your shoulders are out further and the angle of your back is more comfortable. Your wrists no longer hurt at all. The only down side is that it takes a few rides to get used to the steering - not a bad thing, just different at first, then you get used to it and enjoy it alot.

Once I get my High Bar in this weekend, I'll get back to this post and throw in some pictures. I'll take some to show the bar position, riding position and cable routing.

 

LSL Handlebar Modification

Wow! Thanks. Sounds like you really did a detailed and perfectionist job on the handlebars. Of all the modifications I want to make, the LSL bar conversion is the one I want to do the most for my comfort. I have trashed wrists from years of skateboarding, gymnastics, motorcycle riding/racing and typing. I've riden with my hands about 1 1/2 inches above the stock bars (imagining) where they would be with different bars and that little bit makes a huge difference. I don't like the way helibars look, gen mar risers are not enough difference and Convertibars are way too expensive. Plus, I love the look of the old superbike handlebars vs. clipons. I would love to see the pictures of your bike and the specifics of the handlebar conversion. You can either post them on VFRWorld for everyone to see (good idea) or write me directly and send me the pictures in an e-mail. I appreciate you taking the time to write me and explain it all.

Thanks again!

 

I was the same way!

I'll get back to this tonight for you on the pictures of the kit they offer with the provided AN1/LN1 Superbike Low Bars. That way when I get the high bars I can show the increase in bar offset.

 

Hope you don’t mind me asking about the same bar kit for my 97 VFR… I can’t find anyone that has done it on my gen bike, at least not online. I don’t know how different the kit is from your bike, but do you know what the rise and pull back on the bars is now? I’ve even considered getting the bars that they have on the 98-01 Police VFR’s in Japan (assuming I find them):
However, I’m not sure if they fit my model bike… I’m afraid that if I don’t find a good, tall, riser kit for my bike, I may be looking at getting 1st gen VMax.

Unfortunately it seems that anything taller than the Heli bars (or the 98 bars that I have on my bike currently) requires fairing modification! I don’t know if I want to irreversibly modify my fairings for the taller bars… Maybe the VFR wasn’t meant for me?

 

Go to this link: LSL Superbike Handlebar Kits

Select Honda, then VFR750F

I would definately go with the Superbike High Bar, rather then the LN1/AN1 Superbike Low Bar that comes standard with the kit - I think you just have to request the different bar.

That Should be what you want if I am reading your post right

 

Was too dark when I got off work to take pictures, but I am going to post a video off YouTube and link it here. It would be too much for the effort of a writeup and pictures honestly, and you can see more in my opinion. Will put up scans of LSL's Directions as well and describe what is wrong with them and how to route it properly and why. Might take me into Saturday. Stay posted.

 

Ironically I'm not a big fan of ape hangers on a cruiser. I have, however, considered going back to a Magna, but it has a not so fun rear drum brake, okay front brake, small tank and lastly my legs feel cramped on it. Maybe as a last resort I'll go back to one and put a vfr swingarm on it... once i take care of the peg position.

BASFjon, thanks for the info! I'll anxiously await pics or video of your high bar. FYI, from what I read the police bars are 90mm up & 190mm back... close to the high bar specs!!!

 

gsus, I compiled 3 movies tonight.
Clip 1 - VFR Gen 6 LSL Superbike Handlebar Kit Install Information - Low Bar Information
Clip 2 - VFR Gen 6 LSL Superbike Handlebar Kit Install Information - Bar End Modification
Clip 3 - VFR Gen 6 LSL Superbike Handlebar Kit Install Information - AN1/LN2 Low Bar Comparison to L02 High Bar

I am using Adobe Premiere Elements to recompile the movie to Flash8 for YouTube Upload ... and it's taking forever!! I will have to continue recompiling the other 2 tommorrow night and upload them then.

 

Update:

High Bar Installed - major conflict with the windscreen - space sharing between the windscreen and the Brake Master Cylinder & Clutch Cylinder on both sides of the New High Handlebar when banking more then I'd say 75% to Full Lock - a Touring Windscreen makes this upgrade near impossible, more like 60% to Full Lock is prohibited. It would need to be trimmed.

My proposal for the addition of a high bar - about $650 in Brembo Forged Radial Master and Clutch Cylinder with Remote Reservoirs and Speigler custom cables. Otherwise you may be able to source the CBR models OEM brake and clutch cylinders, levers and reservoirs for cheap - IF they have the same bire bore/stroke - the brake being 19x20. If not, you significantly reduce the ability to actuate the brakes.

To address this in detail - the video that shows the height difference between the Lo and High Bars is the best one to visual with. The Reservoirs that are hard mounted to the levers and cylinders are pushed up 2 inches and are thrown directly in the way of the windscreen/fairing section - effectively in the sweep of the reservoirs during a full-lock turn (driveway manuevering will result in cracked windscreens).

My intentions are to take the upgrade to the highest, most comfortable position posible. It becomes more street then sport. With the low bar, it is a perfect compromise - but like I said, you get some soreness across your hands after an hour of leaning on the bar. There still is some lean. And your tricepts tend to feel it more then before. These are my observations. I am taking this bike towards a touring/street build. And I am willing to spend the money to do it. I will have more to post on in the following weeks.

NOTE: I have a feel that the Gen5 Owners out there may not have the windscreen conflict us Gen6 owners do. I may take a level across the Fork Tops and give X,Y,Z dimensions to detail the sweep conflict point. Would involve putting bike on stand, setting steering head straight, level across fork tops and with cardboard cutout, show X & Y Dims of the edge of the forward fairing.

 

I have had the standard kit on my '99 5th gen for about 2 years with no issues whatsoever. I was able to use all stock cables with some slight rerouting and there is no fairing or windshield interference. Longer cables would make it easier on the 5th gen, but are not absolutely necessary.

Incidentally, if anyone is interested, I will be selling my LSL kit as I am converting to RC-51 inverted forks and can no longer use the LSL kit for obvious reasons. It is silver and is in mint, undamaged condition. Not sure on price yet, as I can't recall what I paid, but it was purchased direct from Speigler. Anyway, anyone who is interested can send me a quick PM and I'll get you a price.

 

How did you route yours. It raises the handlebars slightly and the throttle - and pushes the throttle outward from the original position - how did you adjust for that? Is the cable routed in the original position? Or did you route it in front of the forks?

I wonder if the interference is a 6th gen problem. I've notived your fairing and windscreen seems to run more up and down - the 6th gen sweeps back more. Maybe this kit was designed for the 5th gen without a consideration of any small differences on the 6th gen.

 

Took the Vif out today for a ride. This is with the High Bars installed and my old ZG DB screen on in place of my touring screen. Works great on the street. Feels amazing. It's a lot wider than I remember the first time. However, low speed manuevering in parking lots is near impossible without pressing and snapping the screen against the inner black plastic cover pieces to the windscreen itself. I also lsot the ability to turn the steering head full lock to lock the steering collumn either. Also there is no wind protection with the grips spaced further out So in colder or wetter weather, you have to remember your hands are going to cool off quickly - so keep this in consideration.

Saving up for the Brembo Radials to resolve the problem of those resevoirs hitting the fairing/screen

 

Yes, that's pretty much all you have to do and the cables will work fine. I had to drill a hole through the inner fairing on the clutch side of the bike to run the choke cable through (with a rubber grommet to protect the cable) but that was the toughest part.

 

how would you compare the LSL to the ConvertiBAR...i am 5-7 and want to sit upright for commute and travels...jaystar

 

why not cut off 1/2" to 1" each side of the bar ends and move the controls closer together ? higher bar...narrow profile...