Top end noise

Discussion in '1st & 2nd Generation 1983-1989' started by Uncle Billy, May 18, 2018.

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  1. Uncle Billy

    Uncle Billy New Member

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    Hi! I'm new here and have a question about top end noise in my '84 VF750F. It's not the cams, they've survived unscathed, and it's not the valves, I adjusted them about 3 hours' use ago. I remember reading somewhere about 2 or 3 years ago about the cam drive chain tensioners that apparently stick a little as the engine ages (there's 24,000 miles on the bike now), and how to unstick them. Does anybody here know about this? I'll search this forum for what I read, all 200-odd pages! Thanks in advance for any help.
     
  2. Captain 80s

    Captain 80s New Member

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    Does the rattle get louder when the engine is decelerating after revving it? If yes, then more than likely the cam chain tensioners. And they don't get "stuck", they get worn out typically. I've never heard of "unsticking" V4 CCTs.

    24K is not unreasonable mileage for tensioners to need replacing, but probably a little early compared to average.
     
  3. Uncle Billy

    Uncle Billy New Member

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    The noise has the rhythm of a loose valve adjuster and doesn't change much from revving the engine up to slowing it down. The more I think about it the more I think the valves (or at least one of them) isn't adjusted right. It's very awkward and difficult to adjust the valves unless the motor is out of the frame, which I won't do. I tried to order a special valve adjusting tool the Honda made but the website I ordered it from said they didn't have any any more. Is there a special tool for V4 valves? And if there is, where could I buy/borrow one? If it's the tensioners, how much of a job is it to replace them?

    And thanks for your responses! Nobody around here including the Honda dealer knows anything about first gen Interceptors, at least that's what they said to me when I asked if I could bring it to them.
     
  4. Captain 80s

    Captain 80s New Member

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    I don't think its the tensioners then. More than likely valve adjust, especially if it was your first V4. The tools really aren't that special but they do help. One tip is to get an extra set of feeler gages and adjust both sides of the forked rocker at the same time with the gages in place. It's kind of a juggling act but really helps on the first gen motors to get the clearances right.

    Tensioners is not a fun job. Tedious more than anything. Factory service manual a must.

    Here's an example of the tools.
    https://www.revzilla.com/motorcycle...JWj98e-H4ZHxbkRvaRsR4hMQt_KXrv-oaAg1KEALw_wcB

    You can get them individually too. Just verify that it is the dimensions you need, tappet and lock nut.
     
  5. squirrelman

    squirrelman Member

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    u need to remove radiator to get good access to front valves.
     
    Last edited: May 19, 2018
  6. Uncle Billy

    Uncle Billy New Member

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    Thanks very much for that link! I bought a couple of the tools so I could do both tappets at the same time.

    Next question: is there a bike lift on the market that would work with an Interceptor? Harbor Freight had two for sale, the smaller one (1000 pound capacity) seemed to be a good choice, but then they quit selling it. I don't want to spend $1000 and I don't need to lift a Harley. The cheaper ones lift on the bottom of the frame, not the wheels but I'm not sure that would be stable. Any suggestions?
     
  7. Uncle Billy

    Uncle Billy New Member

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    Thanks for the
    Thanks for the advice. I have an official Honda service manual which I think says that in the instructions. I'm trying to find a way to elevate the bike to also make the access better, so I don't have to bend over. I'm 76 and my joints are getting rusty.
     
  8. Diving Pete

    Diving Pete Insider

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    Abba Skylift - I have one & use it for 5 different bikes with the correct adaptor - it is really damm good.
     
  9. Uncle Billy

    Uncle Billy New Member

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    When I went to use the tools that you recommended and I bought, I found they didn't fit. The socket part with the handle wouldn't sit fully engaged on the jam nut because the top of the wrench interfered with the cam lobe at TDC. I tried grinding the barrel to let it fully sit on the nut, but the wrench was too weakened to pull hard enough to sufficiently tighten the jam nut. I went back to a 10mm end wrench and a screwdriver and 2 feeler gauges. I managed to get cylinders 1 and 3 adjusted (they weren't much in need of adjusting), 2 and 4 present a challenge since I don't have a lift yet. There's one that's pretty noisy, maybe I'll just let it clatter.
     
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