i had one like that, great little bike, 30 bhp is enuff power to get u in trouble in all 50 states. [ATTACH] [ATTACH] \[ATTACH]
succesfully avoiding hurricanes we hope
so get a socket on to snug up the nuts and check for tightness, ez enough if any leak is from the front cylinders, rear could be a problem.
align and stabilize the piece with tape on the inside, then use epoxy on the outside. after its dry remove tape and coat inside with more epoxy...
"cables of the fuel petcock" ?? whats that ?
way overpriced. ppl are crazy. :monkeydance:but not enough to buy at that price.
ive used p.g. on several sportscar engines ive built, good stuff ez 2 use on mains, not ez on rods.
im not convinced that replacing that o-ring will fix ur problems. look for the missing ring fallen off somewhere. full coolant suggests no...
might have been smarter to have plugged in the other cdi box for a first test
a simple fuse replacement may work briefly, but something caused the fuse to blow and might again.
WOW, thanks alot for teachin me sum history :cool:
blue sits on top of the spring, other one top of spacer. check the manual to b sure.
what r u doing to find a good crank and rod ?
you're a f*in genius, man
thats so scarey :emporer: from one black box to...... now i have to worry that any one of those 10,000 things could crap out at any time while...
the one float bowl cover was bent, something ive never seen b4, so you replaced it from your spares ? u subsituted another cover, and its still...
never use sandpaper on plugs, wire brush only. checking coils is ez, measure primary resistance first. measure charging voltage @ 5000 rpm asap....
wait a sec, r u sure the shaft coudnt be removed with sprocket in place ?
consider that a new sprocket welded in place would likely be good for 15k miles with no worries. see what happens. the shaft can be replaced later.
just a crazy suggestion, a wobbly front sprockets might get welded to the shaft as a temporary fix :oops:
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