^^ yeah, it always helps to read the owners' manual ! :pipe:
just drain the 1/2 liter out. too much oil can cause frothing as the crank beats air into the oil, bad for lubrication, and it can oil-foul...
complicated but the inboard disc works great. cast iron ventilated floating rotor makes it nearly fade-proof, but it does take 3 hands to mount...
use your best judgement and carry on. :cool:
crap on brake rotor is probably evidence some bugger ran his pads down to metal and kept on ridin. gotta be real careful not to overtighten...
2X4 and sizzors jack under the oil pan with the bike leaning slightly to the right against a wall or post. do all the bolt and axle loosening...
wimpy horns can be improved alot. spray wd40 into it and lightly tap the front a few times with a small hammer. then go to the back and fiddle...
^^ simon is spot-on. poor wheel balance is a likely suspect.
missing tank rubber buffers can cause resonance in the fuel tank and vibrations. also, a worn chain is a possible source, so get the real wheel...
be sure to snap the throttle between screw adjustments so the new setting can settle into place and overcome stiction in the linkages.
a good test for the mc seals is to run a proper-sized bolt into the banjo bolt hole (after a bleed there) and test that it builds and holds pressure.
as u know, the problem with home tank painting is finding truly fuel-resistant paint, which is alot easier for a pro to spray.
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