At idle speed while sitting in traffic it's probably normal. Battery isn't being charged at idle, so the extra signal load would lower system voltage.
No fuel additives for me but Stabil is something to try if you don't want to pull the drain screws. Yes, i usually drain the carbs if the bike...
If riders would only read and follow the instructions in the owners manual alot of carb problems wouldn't happen. :disturbed: The manual states...
Symptoms say you'll be cleaning the carbs b4 it runs right.
Cooling system pressure test is described in the FSM.
Sorry but i couldn't disagree more with that idea.
May need a carb clean with extra attention to the pilot jets.
Van Morrison out-sings anybody in rock (and roll) !
OK , but please don't come back here and tell us how superior your Teutonic uberbike is compared to a Honda. Please. :crushed:
Possibly one cylinder is dropping out. That would be due to bad coil connections, bad ignition coil, fouled sparkplug, or rodent-damaged plug...
Guess i misunderstood..........:confusion:
No, i experienced it on every Hawk i owned (4). The Hawk is my regular daily ride, seldom need the speed or long distance capability of my VFRs.
A theory but entirely unlikely. Air leakage around there wouldn't allow the bike to rev much over midrange.
If you can find it, the same tool works on a VFR to set the shock preload and chain adjustment on Honda's NT650 Hawk.
Why did he loose it ??
The same problem is COMMON on the Honda NT650 Hawk although very rare on VFRs. Toe has it correct: remove or reroute the float bowl vent tubes.
Sorry, GT, but the Kreem product is not as good as Por 15 or the Caswell epoxy. It's known for peeling off after a few years.
Be sure to find, unplug, and inspect the plug between the key switch and the rest of the wiring harness. Any bad connection in there could...
Always helps to remember that power to the headlights goes through the START pushbutton. :smug:
You won't like the (non-) "quality" of the (cheap Chinese) body kit !! :blue:
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