160* Thermostat?

CandyRedRC46 - been looking into buying a voltmeter from Lascar and mounting it in the Mirror like some of the FJR1300 Owners do - actually shines through a cleared off sqaure from the inside in the mirror - but routing the wiring is another question.... and so with the Oil Temp Gauge coming into question - I looked at some Autometers Digital Sport Comp Gauges in 2the -1/16" OD Bezel Sizes, and they look really good!! I used some inspection mirrors, flipped 'em around, placed the round backsides at about where the gauge faces would be - just off of either side of the instrument gauge panel (in the valleys at the top between the windscreen of my Givi) ... Wow!! These would look great in there. I think the gauges are $80-some a piece though. And Silicone would have to be used to waterproof them. Emailed the Tech's at Autometer to make certain there was a Tenth's Position on the Sport Comp Series Voltmeter. In the past I had some Nexus Gauges from them, installed them on our Mach 1, so I have some familiarity with their build quality, installation and so forth.



Here's a pic of an Autometer Cobalt Gauge, these obviously have a tenth's position...these almost look even better, though I'd spray the bezel in a satin black to match the cluster cover.



Here's the Digital Sport Comp Autometer Gauge for Oil Pressure

Would defiantely need some of those visor caps that mount over the top portion of the bezel to reduce glare so you could see into them - especially the Cobalt.

As far as mounting a temp sender, I think a Billet Alluminum Oil Filter Adaptor Plate would be perfect (mellodude, think this is what you were getting to). Would drop about $40 clams getting one. And there's adequate space to move it forward a good bit. But I am sure there are also other ways of getting a sender into the engine block or pan as well (without bungs and tapping or welding).

 

Jon those look awesome! im sure the red would look great with our bike. ive always been a sucker for blue gauges though...

 

A few more cents here. ( I bet we're almost up to a buck!)

Nobody is thinking about the water pump. The suction side of the pump is just after the radiators. With the gravity flow design of the radiators, inlet on top and outlet on the bottom, and the pump pulling coolant out of the radiators, I doubt there is much difference in the flow in each radiator.

On the fan pulling in the wrong direction. My thoughts are the fan only runs in hot conditions, Stop and go traffic or very slow riding with very little air flow coming through the radiators. (Inside fairing to outside of fairing). The fan pulls in the opposite direction, (outside to inside) because under these conditions the cooler air is outside the fairing when bike is stopped and the air inside the fairing is stagnant and getting hotter. This also keeps the fan from blowing hot air on your left leg. I think the Honda engineers got this part right.

A spot I see that would help is splice in metal tubes in place of some of the longer runs of rubber hose. Aluminum would be best. Fins on the tubes would be even better.

 

Guys ,I think we are to a point with the fan direction that the only way we can determine what is best is to test a standard flow fan (OUTSIDE TO INSIDE) and
compare it with an (inside to outside) model. Right now we are trying to base our
decision on common sense,and any one of you that has ever done an engineering project knows that common sense does not always rule. Any suggestions how we should go about setting up the test? I have a few ideas but I would like to hear from a few others. tks eddie

 

Mellow Dude, I agree on fan fighting normal airflow but at slow speeds I think the fan overpowers a 5 to 15mph speed. I took a towel and hung it just outside the air vent, when the fan kicked on it sucked the towel right in. That fan pulls pretty strong. But I agree 100%, if we could get a good fan working in conjunction with airflow instead of fighting it we would be better off. The only drawback would be hot air exiting the left side.

 

This looks pretty cool to try and get the oil temp down.
RoadStarMagazine.com - Buck's Oil Filter Protector/Cooler Review

 

Since I haven't reversed the fan, I couldn't say where it would blow, but it doesn't appear to go directly onto your legs. The VFR has ducting - so it doesn't blow entirely outward, but almost angles upward and back a bit. Also you got to remember the temps get hot when there isn't speed to blow the hot air back to your legs, but it blows it more outward to the sides of the bike.

Would be interesting to find out for certain though. Kinda feel stupid about this because I don't have the time to wire up a switch for the fan and do some low-speed runs. But I will when I am back form vacation.

Yeah that's what these do, act like an inline tap, are female thread on the backside, and male threaded on the frontside. They also usually have bungs (not sure if that is the correct term) for outlet lines - usually a set of 2 for a remote oil cooler send and return circuit. You don't want this - you need something that is basically just like a flowthrough unit with taps for pressure and temp sensors. I haven't looked much into these yet, but it would be adviseable to find a block for this specific purpose - as like I said, certain blocks are expecting to route the oil out and back before the oil filter - so sticking a sensor in there wouldn't be adviseable. I need ot look this up sometime soon.

These are Square Ditigal Meters that come in Red LED and Blue LED.

DigitalMeter.com - Digital Panel Meters manufactured by DATEL

That's the small square Voltage Meter I was actually looking at over the LASCAR unit.

I was actually thinking about putting it into the mirror and then routing the lines outside of the mirror stalk under some half-cut large stainless brake line painted black with plastic conduit (not the corrugated looking type - but the OEM black shiny tubing) on each end of it where the flex-joints are in the mirro base and head. But it's a lot of work. I have a space mirror to try it, but I am thinking about some gauges instead now.

Here's a pic of an FJR Mirror with the voltmeter installed inside it





Here's the Mirror Installation Link
Clean Installation in FJR1300 Mirror

Here's the Link for the same Meter on an FJR1300 in a Plastic Cover


Now I've looked all over the general area around the gauge cluster and so forth to mount one of these, and the only place I can think of is on a bracket off the clip-ons, or like a member did somewhere on here, and install it in the top-bridge / triple-tree between the fork towers - actually cutting/removing the alluminum and installing the gauge right there. I beleive this is a surface mount with a wiring hole drilled through. I beleive this is one of the LASCAR units.




Here's just a quick Photoshop pic of what the Datel might look like on teh Top Bridge.




LASCAR also makes a small square model and a newer round button model - EM32-1B-LED (see below image).

I was going to do this with the "bubbleboy" windscreen I was playing with that was a quick removal touring screen for longer distances that could be broken down in two and stowed under the rear topcase.... and that is to cut small lengths of strings and tape them in front of the airflow on rods or something that projects them forward into the airflow, and then watch them at speed. Nothing long enough to get them sucked into the fan.

...actually as I am thinking this...it wouldn't practically work and here's why...black plastic cover removed, and now headers are in way - plus how do you view it at speed - mount a camera off the front bottom - lot of work.

It would be easier to mount strings off the outside of the radiator and see if they get sucked to the radiator with the fan manually turned on blowing in - like it does normally....going various speeds - and seeing when the fan is overpowered, and then without the fan on, watching the strings get picked up and begin lofting up in the flow of wind through the radiators - what speed this is.

So in effect, the Speed to overcome the radiator fan would be found, and the normal speed to get flow through the radiator would be found without the fan on.

I'd do this, but I leave for vacation for 9 days starting tommorrow. That is the main reason I haven't really done this already. But I'd gladly do it when I come back.

Buck's Oil Filter Protector/Cooler


They call those things Cool Collars

Honestly for the area it's being installed into because instead of radiating heat, it might pick it up from the headers.

I would mount a piece of metal bar down next to the oil filter - this being mounted off the motor, but keep it insulated from the motors heat - you cannot let this bar conduct heat from the motor. So attaching it to say wood, and then strapping the bar to it. Then at low and high speeds, pull over and feel what the metal feels like - hot or cool. That way you could tell whether it was getting infrared heat (radiated heat) from the headers. And I'd do this with the Black front Plastic Cover Removed that goes over the headers so you could access the oil filter.

My two cents. Would save you some money, time, effort, etc.

 

Got my replies back from Autometer. All their digital voltmeter's display the tenths position. And in terms of mounting depth - which I was concerned about - "it's 3" to the back of the mounting studs. You might be able to trim 1/4" but not much more." - from one of the Tech's. I have a Givi Touring Screen - so the rise between by plastic instrument cover and screen is pretty adequate for the diameter of the gauges, and btw they sit in front of the instrument cluster plastic cover - not on top of it. I need to make a mockup with some pvc pipe - wrapped it to 2-1/16 inches thick and print off the face of both of these gauges, and mount them to see what they'd look like. And then post some pictures.

As far as a mounting provision, The windscreen upper mount behind the plastic covers are perfect for this. A Fab'd metal bracket could easily make it's way underneath the cover and mount off the backsides of the gauge.

When I get back off vacation, I'll do this and post some pics.

 

oh man....I really like this!!!! Found it tonight.

SPAL FAN-PWM-V3 / Programmable Electric Fan Controller

SPAL's all new programmable fan controller allows you to vary the speed of a single SPAL cooling fan based on engine temperature. This results in increased fan life and reduced operational noise.

You simply choose the Low and High temperature settings you desire. When the low temperature setting is reached the fan begins spinning at 50% speed. As the engine temperature increases, the speed of the fan slowly increases until it reaches the High setting, where it is then running at 100%.
That is so cool!!!

The system can operate dual fan setups with the ability to trigger an external fan relay to power your second fan. An input for your air conditioning system allows fans to run at 100% when the A/C is activated. Built in timing features keep fans off during modern vehicle defrost cycles. On board status indicator lights report error codes and let you know the FAN-PWM-V3 is active and ready.

Many new additional features including fan status output for in vehicle verification of fan operation, over current protection and smart soft start for lower inrush spikes from the fan system just to name a few.
Price: $164.95


And you can use their low-profile fans as well.

Sounds like a winner. Just god-aweful expensive!! And doesn't inlcude the temp sender for the unit - think it's another $30.00

pdf manual here: http://www.spalusa.com/pdf/FAN-PWM-V3_SPEC.PDF#view=FitH


haha... found it on ebay for $116.

eBay SPAL FAN-PWM-V3 / Programmable Electric Fan Controller

 

The White Unicorn

Here it is guys, my white unicorn... Eleanore:biggrin:
90-95* C which would be roughly 195-205* Fahrenheit. This is the magic # !!!

Temperature Switch, radiator fan 6ZT 007 835-091 - AUTOTEILE - Auto Ersatzteile für Ihr PKW

I am very excited:biggrin:


So I have a 178* switch up for grabs... any offers... :tongue: lol

 

The sweet sound of SUCCESS! :thumbsup:

 

Well the switch on point is at 200F. More than likely switch the off point will be at 185F. This should all be, give or take, a few degrees. The switch off point is just a guess of mine, from looking at other thermostatic switches. As long as the switch off point is no lower than 185F the fans should actually be able to cycle on and off, and not just stay on like they are doing now. The 170F thermostat I ordered earlier should let the fans cycle on and off easier too, as the thermostat will no longer be trying to keep the engine temp above 180 (or 190 I still need to test out the stock thermostat to find out exactly when it opens up).

As far as the threads go, if you look at the application list, it comprises almost all Honda autos made in the past decade. So I'm just keeping my fingers crossed on this one.

Also, another thing to consider, is how the switch connects. I am hoping its the same ground earth connection, where there is only one wire plugging into it and the threads themselves are grounded.

I'll let you guys know when it get here...:biggrin:

 

short lived success...

well, as you can see, there are two connections in the back of the thermostatic switch. this is not the one connection, grounded plug that i was hoping for.
i guess it could be easily remidied by grounding off and separating one of the prongs, and pluging into the opposite.
i had a feeling that plastic shroud was hiding some bad news.

 

i could deffinetely be wrong about why there are 2 prongs on this switch, instead of the VFR's 1. does anyone have a clue what the difference is?
thanks