1985 VF1000R Restoration #2

Question... any real down side to removing the thermostat from inside the housing and running without one ?

I have to replace the housing with a spare one and I know these bikes run super hot, id like to remove the T-stat if its one less part to fail.

 

It would be ok if the air temp is always 30C or hotter. The motor is designed to run with a coolant temp of around 82C - 99C. The thermostat is desgined to get and keep it in that zone. Without it, at lower air temps, the engine will run cold resulting in sub-par preformance/ gas mileage.

 

OK, thanks !!

 

Valve clearances were all good, cams ok (a couple of lobes with minor pitting but nothing im going to lose sleep over).

New thermostat housing installed (Thermostat tested OK).

Cleaned & shined up the engine and everything is all buttoned up.

New steering-head races get installed in the new frame tomorrow (they're in the freezer now), after that ill get the frame back on the engine.

Ill also get to the front forks next week - Seals and upgraded springs (springs came out of a VF1000R race bike, one of the 4 I got for parts).

Ill also use CLR or vinegar/water next week to clean the two Rad's.

 

a bit more progress on reassembly today. Steering head bearings all done, frame re-mounted on the engine, swing arm back in, wiring harness in. Lots of parts cleaning and painting as I go now.

 

Frame looks great.

 

Thanks, I'm thinking I may get the other spare frame painted too and when I pull VR1kR #1 apart to do the tranny gears M2/3, ill swap the frame too (again)

 

Making great progress. Helps to have a nice shop to work in.

 

Thanks, yes, I could spend all day in there, and I often do.

Stereo playing, heat on, great bikes to look at. I keep saying I need a beer fridge in there, but then the quality of the work may suffer.

 

Did I mention that I HATE cleaning comstar wheels ? what a PITA they are. they look good once done but...

 

Hours and hours and hours. My knuckles were bruised from repeating the same move with a toothbrush a gazillion times. Let the wheels dry... nope, another round. These were 50K mile wheels. Not fun.

 

what did you use to get the sliver fasteners nice and clean ?, mine wont come back to silver, they're a goldish colour

 

Honda Accurate Silver touch-up. It's a bit translucent and dries nicely looking like a metal finish, rather than paint. ;-)
Some of mine were very corroded, so I experimented and was very happy with the results.

 

Ahhh, that explains it, thanks !

 

A reasonably productive day in the shop today. I got a few small bits installed on the bike (kick stand, sprocket cover, gear shift foot lever, rear brake brace, ignition and idiot light display). I also pulled the forks apart, both are now re-done with new seals etc. I noted that the right fork (which wasn't leaking around the seal) had almost no fork oil in it (probably why it wasn't leaking LOL). I cleaned the wheels up a bit but they still need some more attention. Radiators have been cleaned and flushed. A few small brackets have been painted and re-installed.

 

Just a wee pic of the progress. The back wheel isn't installed its just sitting there making it look like ive done more than I really have.

 

I didn't get much done yesterday. Went out riding instead, not many days left here now so I made the most of it. I put the last of the bikes to bed for winter as of last night. A long wait till spring unless Mother Nature sends us a warm day over the next month (not likely).

I may strip the brake callipers next, they're really nasty and judging by the shyte that was in the MC the same goop may be lurking behind the calliper pistons. Im still waiting on my braided lines and pads as well, so may as well get them cleaned in the meantime.

 

yaaaaaa...I'd forgo some quality for sure and install that fridge asap! Winters not as long here in WI as north of the border, but no way I could survive without the beer fridge!!

Nice to see this one staying stock, IMO some need to be original.

 

Used the ultrasonic cleaner to clean the brake callipers this morning. I cleaned everything with Brake cleaner first but it was still too dirty for my liking so I fired up the USC with fresh water and detergent and as usual it did a great job. Just look how filthy the water is in the second picture. I didnt take any "before" shots of the callipers so what you see are all "after".

I also polished up the pistons, and used rubber grease on the seals for re assembly. Copper anti-seize on the pins etc.

All reassembled now ready to be re-plumbed and bled. I've put the old pad's back in until I get it all bled because 1) the new ones have not arrived yet and 2) this way I dont get fluid on the new pads if by chance I make a mess.

Braided stainless brake lines did arrive.

Ive bled alot of brakes in the past, but I will say that these Nissin callipers on the old Honda's are the bane of my existence, theyre the only callipers I have had no end of problems getting a firm lever on. Im not looking forward to this next part, wish me luck.

I may try and reverse bleed these up to the MC banjo fitting first. Or better yet, reverse bleed each side up to the splitter, then up to the MC.

 

yep - i also discovered that if you reverse bleed to the point you see no bubbles coming back into the master cylinder, then they will bleed fine - using the normal technique..