Discussion in 'Mechanics Garage' started by NorcalBoy, Nov 7, 2018.
How was the fit of the Samco hoses?
Oh and as a couriousity, did you weigh the engine?
Fit, I checked a few of them against the OEM hoses and they are a perfect match. The one I have installed fit as it should.
Weighed the engine? Nope, sorry.
Your spring story had me laughing. That has happened to me on motorcycles and even more frustrating is when it happens rebuilding fishing reels as they are very small. Those lost hours caused a bit of drinking.
Looking for dropped parts is the worst. It took me an hour to find a drive sprocket screw on the 86 because it wasn’t on the floor, it was between the engine and the exhaust box.
Nice wiring, looks like mine.
Due to awaiting the arrival of the special Honda tool for the engine mounting setup, I shifted gears and did a little investigation into the fitment of the new turn signals.
The OEM turn signals for the RVF are a little big for what they really need to be and weren't in perfect condition, so I decided to source some of the smaller "early" turn signals from the 1990 VFR400 to try and clean up the lines a little.
During the initial inspection I noticed a couple things that were going to have to get addressed before they would mount in the correct orientation. For starters, the drain, or vent slots, had to be on the bottom. and the wires had to be oriented to match the rubber grommet wiring holes...which a couple of them didn't. My only guess is that the grommets from the VFR400 account for this.
Bottom wiring exit on the new, top wiring exit on the old
Because of this minor discrepancy, two of the indicators would have to be modified to align correctly with the RVF grommet and bodywork holes.
The second thing was the length of the OEM bushings for the grommets were too long, as the mounting location depths of the new indicators weren't as deep as the originals.
The third thing was the bulb base had a wiring relief recess cut in the backing plate that would have to be changed to allow the wiring to be moved and not be pinched in between the housing and the plate when the indicator was assembled.
Used the trusty pneumatic rotary tool to clearance the plate for the new wiring location
Drilled the new hole in the correct spot in the housing and test fit the bulb base. Worked good, wire and base gasket no longer pinched.
Modified indicator with bushing cut to the correct length, wire moved to the correct exit location, new OEM mounting grommet and lense reattached
Repeated the process for the second indicator, then crimped and soldered new 3.5 mm male bullet terminals and covers to fit the new 3.5 mm female bullet receptacles I installed on the wiring harness previously.
Test fit the new indicators on the rear fender. I like the look, more streamlined, and no more cracked and sun faded indicators. Mission accomplished. These are the little details you encounter when you are assembling a build and you have to spend the time to correct them.
I also took the time to remove the completely corroded reflector from the fender. The nut, washer, and reflector had become one solid piece of rust. I didn't want to ruin the stock fender by doing a fender eliminator trim, so I ordered up a new reflector and was finally able to remove the original reflector without damaging the fender.
As soon as Mr. UPS man delivers the special tool from Mother Ship Honda tomorrow, I can get back to getting the engine mounting completed and start building a little bit of momentum.
The required Honda special tool arrived from the mother ship this morning, got down to business. After the cluster screw of the past week, it was time to get after it.
Honda tool needed for the engine and swingarm mounting
Where it sat when I started
Got the engine mounted up to the frame and got everything torqued. Started in with the front valve cover. As it is quite a bit, I will just do a chronological posting, with minimal explanation.
Before getting going, I installed new Denso Iridium plugs, as they are easier to install without the valve covers attached
Front valve cover installed, ti bolts, new seals and gasket
Rear exhaust flanges installed, new studs, nuts, and gaskets
Rear valve cover and breather installed, ti bolts, new seals and gaskets, nickel plated attachments
Stator cover installed, DLC coated ti bolts, new gasket, nickel plated and new OEM attachments
Clutch cover installed, DLC coated bolts, new gasket, new inspection cap and o-ring, new OEM attachments
Installed vapor blasted swingarm, new bearings, seals, bolts, nuts, and chain sliders
Installed vapor blasted and powdercoated suspension linkage, new bearings, bushings, seals, ti bolts, and DLC coated bi-hex metal lock nuts
Installed cerakoted rear downpipes
Installed Nitron NTR3 shock, ti bolts, and DLC coated nuts
Installed cerakoted collector and midpipe for rear cylinders
Installed new Rick Oliver lightweight billet eccentric, ti pinch bolt and new OEM brake line guide
Installed vapor blasted rear caliper carrier
Assembled and torqued up the rear axle. EBC Pro-lite rotor, ti wheel locating studs and bolts, stainless hex rotor bolts with DLC coated nuts
Where I ended up the day
Will be back at it tomorrow. Don't know how much I'll get done...MotoGP to watch.
oh my oh my you have been a busy bugger !, it will look to pretty to cover up with body work, how about having 2 bikes one for using and one for just looking at when there is sod all on the telly!, seriously great looking bit of kit
Thank you for the nice words, Scott. Much appreciated.
I have one completed moto build sitting in the dining room, this one is for riding.
The day "started" OK.
Assembled the vapor blasted driven portion of the rear hub, ultralight 520 steel sprocket, ti bolts, washers bi-hex metal lock nuts.
Once this was done, I started the final assembly of the hub....then I got the life sucked out of me for the umpteenth time this week, ROFL
Once the hub was completely assembled and the axle nut was ready for the final torquing, I noticed a little problem. The hub didn't spin freely, I said, "Self, this can't be good", and of course....it wasn't, hahahahahahahahaha
Inside of driven portion of the hub was interference fit against the adjusting ring on the billet carrier. Started investigating further...
Tracked it down to the width of the adjustment ring machined into the eccentric...compared to OEM
The original intent of the design was to provide a wider purchase area for the adjustment wrench...problem being....the OEM was this
And with the billet piece, the width was almost double that....best laid plans. Also noticed that the caliper carrier fit a tad too snug to the eccentric for my liking. I knew this was going to need attention, before I even got it assembled to check everything else out....steeeeeeeerike 2!
Got on the personal mobile communication device and contacted my ace machinist in Maine, sent a few pics and texts back and forth, then boxed it all up to get sent out for a little shave here, a little tuck there. Going out tomorrow morning. The master craftsman that does my machining work is also a serial moto builder...so he gets it, without having to worry about it. Sharp cat, that one.
And away they go
Took a breather, had a coffee, and watched the Moto2 race from COTA. Then I got back at it.
Installed the Tyga Triples and powdercoated aluminum meter stay, again, DLC coated ti bolts and nuts, with drilled and anodized washers, and new OEM bolts for the ignition switch that's on the way
Installed the meters with ti bolts and new OEM bushings and isolators and a new speedo converter from KMH to MPH
Took a break from assembling and finished up the sub air filter housing repair I did on the airbox
Now I can connect the carb air tubes up to filtered air, instead of them just hanging wide open underneath the tank
Got back to assembly, well sort of....Installed the powdercoated subframe with new OEM and natural ti bolts. It was then that I realized the shock had to be spun, in order for the hose to reach the future mounting location on the subframe. One step forward, two steps back. Was able to rotate the shock without too much cussing and screaming. Fingers crossed that it works with the fender, will check it tomorrow. Got started on placing the wiring harness in the proper location so I can get it mostly installed tomorrow...gotta keep moving and there are things that need to get done, but the harness has to be in place first.
This is how it all ended up...adapt and overcome
Figured it was time to end an up and down day, rest up and think, and regroup for tomorrow. This will get done eventually, hahahahahahahaha.
Nice! This the the really fun part of the build. Nice clean parts coming together. The grunt work is done, enjoy the assembly.
This bike is looking really good. How lucky you are to assemble what is basically a new machine. Most of us just end up putting the same old cleaned up parts back together. I know you did a lot of work to get to this point.
Bummer about the rear hub. I like that you share the road blocks as well. Very cool how you got new parts machined. I guess some glitches are expected.
He still had to get it to that state....
Its only looking new due to a lot of time & effort.
Yes, I realize that. I have been following the thread from the beginning.
I really like the colors you are deciding on, the contrasts make it a thing of beauty.
Started the day by assembling the new OEM coils, NGK HT leads, ground upgrade wiring and nickel plated mount for the front coil
Installed the nickel plated right fairing mount, got the front coil installed and connected up with ground upgrade wiring, installed the vapor blasted thermo housing with new OEM t-stat, temp sending unit, o-ring, and ti bolts
Finished up the ground upgrade wiring for the starter motor, connected up the stator and pulse generator wiring, and the main harness ground
Installed the front reproduction flap I concocted, continued situating the wiring and got the rear fender installed
Installed the rear reproduction flap, new OEM coil with new NGK HT leads, upgraded ground wiring, battery and starter motor cables, and started adding in the other electrical components. New Ignitech digital programmable ignition, flasher relay, and fuse box with nickel plated mount, and the nickel plated zorst mount with ti bolts and washers
Went to my mailbox and picked up this carbon shock reservoir mount that just arrived from Tyga in Thailand. It's a replica of the NC30 part.
Added some 1/16", adhesive backed rubber isolation to the mount, and installed it with ti bolts and washers and aluminum spacers
Added some helicopter tape to the res and the back of the mount so the hose clamps wouldn't mar the finishes
Turned out pretty decent, I was kind of sweating this mounting deal, as the RVF does not have a remote reservoir shock as OEM and the OEM NC30 mounts weren't available, new or used. I had been talking to Paul and Matt at Tyga Performance and told them they needed to start making them out of carbon...so they did. Thanks a ton to those guys.
Installed the OEM coolant bottle, new starter relay, rubber isolator, and fuse holder. I have another setup for the coolant recovery tank, but I just haven't decided where to put it yet, so I figured I would mount the OEM tank until I get that sorted out.
Have a few more odds and ends to finish up the electrical, the main thing being the bolts for the MOSFET RR I sourced for it, turn signals, taillight assembly, headlight assembly. The main thing right now is getting the RR finished up. Forgot to order the bolts...measured everything up, put it in the spreadsheet...never ordered them. Irritating because I just got all of the oil pan bolts from ProBolt and now I have to place a final, final order.
Tomorrow is carb install day
After that, I'm dead in the water again, at least until I get the hub and the forks back. Haven't pestered my seat guy, or the painter, don't really need that stuff right away. My fork guy is killing me, though. I'm sure I'll hear from them soon...itching to see that bodywork, the painter is very good.
I like the Carbon rear shock mount.. nice job on that.
How long before you can hit the starter button?
Thanks Mr. Pete! You know I was trying to figure out what I was going to do with that, it was starting to look like it was going to be that one last thing needed to finish up. Glad it didn't turn out that way.
No idea, completely out of my hands at this point. I have found that things don't go any quicker by trying to force it.
These are the things still outstanding
Forks, at FastBike Industries, not sure where I am in the que
Seat, at Pancho's, waiting to hear something back
Bodywork, at Cycle Skins for paint and new decals
Eccentric, should arrive at the machinist tomorrow
Spacers for RR, will be spun up with the eccentric machining
Ti bolts and washers for new RR mounting, ordered last night
C-Spanner to complete the triple clamp tightening, on the way
Throttle, clutch, choke cables and ignition switch, ordered from Rick Oliver, still no shipping confirmation
When all that stuff will happen is beyond my ability to control
So your saying you won't be done by Friday? lol
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