2007 VFR is crapping out!

Bubba,

Uh, what's an "RR"?

 

RR = regulator / rectifier

 

The R/R is your Regulator/Rectifier. Your bike's generator puts out alternating current (AC). The rectifier converts it to direct current (DC.) The regulator lowers the voltage when necessary to keep you from overcharging your battery and frying your electrical components.

Regards,
Rollin

 

wow, interesting thread.

i have nothibg to add to what every one else has said, but do want to know how this ends!

good luck finding resolution. do you get a bonus for stumping the Honda dealer?

 

If they have no idea, I'd have them check the cat. converter...you never know & you got nothing to lose.

 

I think that there was another member on here that recently had a similar issue but his FI light came on. After he cleared the codes, the issue got better but still persisted and the FI light didn't come back on. His turned out turned out the be the MAP sensor and it was just a faulty connection at that. NCB suggested this quite a while ago. I would highly suggest testing the MAP sensor and either ritualisticly cleaning the connectors or replacing it.

FWIW... the MAP sensor that is on the VFR is one that Honda has used for YEEEEEAAAAARS across many different models. I forget how I did it but on you can search for the part on bikebandit.com and there is a link that will somehow show the various applications it will fit. There were about 10-15 models over the past 10 years or so that this MAP sensor was used on. When I had problems earlier this summer I suspected a bad MAP sensor and tracked a used one down. I replaced mine with it and the problem persisted and I found other issues after narrowing it down. I still have the MAP sensor laying around somewhere I think. I will do some looking tonight and see if I can track down what the heck I did with it. I think I only paid $20 + shipping for it. Pay for the shipping and I'll send it your way. It will be one more part to knock off the list of possibilities and won't cost you an arm and a leg like a new one would.

Whatever we are dealing with is more than likely some sort of issue with a sensor, connector, or something throwing the ECU faulty data and it thus the ECU incorrectly making corrections and causing your symptoms.

 

Maybe I missed it but didn't you say the voltage coming out of the TPS looked bad? Is your bike under an extended warranty or are you footing the bill at the dealer? Since its not the ECU, it sure sounds like a faulty sensor or connector. Where are you located? If the dealer is stumped get the bike back and see if one of the members here could give you a hand. Good Luck and I hope you get it figured out soon.

Action

 

If close enough I would gladly let you use mine for a while as a test subject.Need to ride my gen 2 more anyways.

 

I'll add my 2 cents, I was a gm auto elec/fi tech for 20 years (i've seen enough problems to give a teen gray hair), I have carbed bikes for that reason but what I would do below. Verify and write down what's checked and done as you go. Again I'm not a FI Honda tech but neither are some I've seen working at MC dealers.

Good chance it's related to previous work.
Try to get Honda N. America involved.
If that don't work, you need a factory manual.
(a note on fuses) I've seen people tear a car all apart because they tested a 10amp fuse with a test light and deemed it good. A test light doesn't draw 10amps (the fuse may not carry the load it's rated for) that includes the main fuse. Swap all the fuses related to the fi pump ecm with other fuses of the same rating.
Is engine temp normal? Oil level correct?
Did you try it with the stock air filter? MAP sensor airbox gismos?
Has the TPS been tested, shouldn't jump around on a ohm meter when throttle is advanced or if the tps is tapped on lightly. I had them be bad with no code.
Check plugs (replace if they have miles on them) all burning the same? Any flake between electrode? Any oil around plug from leaky valve cover seal? Good time to check compression.
Fuel should be dumped and fuel filter replaced. If contaminated check all fuel sys screens.
Check coils, if someone dropped a wrench on one a hairline crack can arc.
Vac hoses all verified going to the correct fittings. Intake leaks.
Open the gas cap slightly (not when full) see if the problem changes, tank venting issues.
Fuel pressure regulator, you would have moniter fuel rail pressure.
Double check all connectors and grounds especially charging system, moniter voltage while riding for drastic changes when problem occurs.
Has the valve clearance been checked? cam timing would be checked at the same time, cam sensors checked at that time.
As many have mentioned running seafoam thru it couldn't hurt especially if fuel was contaminated.
Manual will aid in testing each component seperatly.

I've seen some very simple stuff overlooked. I bought a Mitsubishi Starion Turbo (in the mid 80s) cheap because the Mits techs coudn't figure out the massive hesitation (no codes). After reading the manual it said replace all vac lines at 50k. They all looked like new, after testing them... one to a sensor had smegma in it, after I put a new one on it ran like new, put a 100k miles on it after that no issues.

A note on TPS, they're just rheostats, very simple IF it's verified bad, I've takin them apart and fixed them before.

 

That's a bummer, John. I guess I don't understand the logic of the dealership you took your bike to. It's impossible to know the exact details of what they did...but it sounds like they went to the easiest stuff to get to and hoped that was it.

I would think a faulty map sensor would be red tagged on the HDS test that was done on your bike. It seems more likely the vaccum line that 'feeds' it, or the pressure regulator could be split, or undone. It's hard to discount what your friend in Tech services found in his test...those guys are usually pretty sharp.

With the cold here lately, I've been pretty bored at work...any chance of a road trip to MN? (God what am I getting myself into). Seriously, I'm trying to think what my logical sequence of troubleshooting a 'problem child' like yours would be. So here's it...

A test run or two with HDS hooked up...doublechecking the TPS reading...and the other data as well. Start disassembly of the thing, to the point of doing a fuel pressure test (won't show on HDS if I'm not mistaken)...might as well eliminate this fairly simple and obvious possibility. This would be a good time to inspect spark plugs, resistor caps for abormalities. I may try to do a peak voltage test on all plug wires to the point of failure to check for loss of spark, the fuel pressure gauge would still be attached to look for weirdness there. Then I'd continue to access the throttle bodies and just LFS (look for stuff)...like a bad vacuum connection, make sure the bodies are pushed all the way in the boots, and put a screwdrive on the clamps to make sure they're tight. This would also include checking connections, and using Honda's fit tool to check for a loose fitting pin. I'd also do that on the ECM connectors. I'd also take a look at the exhaust, it seems unlikely the cat would be clogged, unless the bike has been run quite some time with a fouled spark plug, but those damn mice seem to enjoy nesting in tailpipes this time of year.

 

saw on a google that some folks discover that the connector just was not seated all the way at the throttle body connection. have you tried that?

 

There was a member on VFRD (Sportrider) who had a somewhat similar ordeal, unfortunately the thread is gone. Here is his synopsis:

Maybe it helps... Timing Disaster - Please Help! - VFR Discussion

He had an extended warranty and ended up getting a replacement bike.

 

+1 for beta's suggestion...LFS...look for stuff...like that.

I have no clue how you could damage a timing rotor by installing a CCT. In a case like that, you know it had something to do with what the mechanic did. It only failed immediately after the greasy finger was applied.

If I read the initial post correctly, the bike ran fine for some time after being worked on...kinda 'out of the blue' if you will. Which makes it hard to blame the dealership for the intial problem, unless something didn't get plugged in completely, which could show up anytime.

On the other hand, I DO blame the dealership for saying they 'don't know what to do'. You NEVER say that to a customer...not very confidence inspiring, and three hours isn't a huge amount of time to find and verify a weird and vexing problem. I could see saying 'we haven't figured it out yet'. Anyway, hopefully they have the class to return and not charge for the ECM, which it appears isn't the problem.

 

This just in ... the VFR is fixed!

After more than two weeks at the dealership and 10 hours of shop time they discovered that one of the camshafts had mysteriously skipped a tooth within the cam chain assembly.

I reminded them that a few months ago their dealership had replaced the cam chain tensioner gizmo and what's the chance that the guy botched the job when he was reassembling the parts.

Of course they said that there is no connection. Uh, yea ... right.

In any case, I just picked up the bike and it runs fine. Despite having to shell out a lot of $$$ to get it fixed, I'm just glad that this nightmare is over.

Thus, if anyone with a VFR experiences a weird crapping out ... I suggest checking the cam position sensor and/or the actual camshaft timing.

And now I do believe it's time for a cold beer.

 

Thats good mate, but you shouldnt have to pay because they botched the cct change.
When a cct is removed it is very possible that the pressure from the valve springs will cause the chain to jump a tooth (or more).
You are very lucky that you didnt bend a valve, although in that case the reason would have been obvious.
On the VTR1000 it is critical to have the cams and cranks in the correct position before removing a cct, or the cam will definitely jump teeth.
It surprises me that this doesnt seem to be treated as an issue on the VFR.
All I can say is what twats for not realising this sooner. Get a new mechanic.

 

Glad you are on the road again. I am shocked that they would tell you that the two were not related and charged you. As a mechanic I know from time to time things do not go as planned , when they don't you need to make it right and lick your wounds no matter what the cost. It is called trust , and I hope they have lost yours. Still, glad your enjoying your bike again.

 

They should have at least gone halvesies with you..... thats the right thing to do..

 

Glad it's fixed, mystery is solved. I'd be quicker to blame the tech if the problem appeared immediately after the repair. But in an earlier post you stated the bike ran fine after the repairs, which makes it all seem kinda strange. I agree with crustyrider, considering the problems you've had halvsies seems fair.

 

And the best news is ... I got the bike back just in time for the rains to hit Los Angeles! F-it ... I'm riding it to work anyway.

 

Id have them eat the repair costs, they changed the cct and it "worked fine" for a little bit then started crapping out. the chain can and will skip if the tensioner is not set right ( if just a tad to loose) so after they changed it they have to warrenty their workmanship. If your cutting your losses, then just dont use them for anything. Personaly I would start a small claims case for it but that may not be worth it