3rd gen rc36 overhaul advice

Discussion in 'Mechanics Garage' started by Blackslide, Jun 13, 2019 at 2:58 AM.

  1. Blackslide

    Blackslide New Member

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    A precursor:

    So I was riding the last 200+ miles with a totally worn out rear tire, and the front is over 4 yrs old. And I think they are way past their useable life. (Rear has worn down to the wires).

    Right front strut leaks oil and the front feels way too soft. Also the rear feels like it sinks way too much when I sit on the bike. And the rear wheel feels light and slippery on bumpy roads. Also a weird wiggle in the rear when cornering.

    Lots of other little issues, like loose chain, worn front sprocket, etc...

    So I'm planning on changing:
    -tires, brakepads, fluids, maybe discs and hoses
    -wheel bearings, front shock seals and fluid, chain and sprockets
    -maybe add a shim under the clutch spring
    -install a new battery and doing the drill

    So I wonder:
    Can the front improve with just new seals and maybe slightly more fluid than specs say?

    Could I get a stiffer spring for the rear, is it an easy swap?

    Can I perform these on the "stock" centerstand at once or do I have to do front first, then rear, or vice-versa?

    I like the general stance and flickability of the bike, what measurements should I mark down, before I start removing parts from the bike?

    What would be the most straightforward course of action to perform all these in succession, in ex. without having to refill coolant many times, etc.?

    Thanks in advance to the great community on this forum, keep on riding folks![​IMG]

    Riding on the storm
     
  2. squirrelman#1

    squirrelman#1 New Member

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    how many miles or km's on it ??
     
  3. NorcalBoy

    NorcalBoy Member

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    It is hard to get to a destination, when you don't know where you want to go. Decide where you want to go, then create a tentative road map on how you want to get there. Research the journey to the first stop on the map, get it figured out, and start moving towards stop one. As you are moving towards stop one, begin researching and figuring out what stop two will be, and so on, and so on. You don't eat an elephant in one bite. You have to have a plan before you even start.
     
  4. Blackslide

    Blackslide New Member

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    It has 64k km or 40k mi on the dial, but it is an import, so it might be false, or not.

    Let's say my budget is very constrained, but I love the bike. I would like to make the suspension firmer and make it a safe ride for long trips. I'm not going to build a showroom piece, but a reliable fun workhorse, sort of.

    Apparently a stand is required for any work in the front. Not sure about the rear shock tho..

    I guess I'll just start with taking the panels off, doing the brakes, and all the stuff in the front, along with eliminating possible electrical issues. Apparently the front shock is an easy fix.

    I'll wonder about the rear after the front is sorted.

    Had a short trip just for fun, can't quite know when I get to ride her again :([​IMG]

    Riding on the storm
     
  5. ridervfr

    ridervfr Member

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    Good on you for posting pictures as I do not have to use this: :worthless:
    1.) You can get stiffer springs and if you need to do your fork seals do it, go with 7 weight fork oil as the lighter stuff is not for this bike.
    2.) You can be penurious with things but tyres NO. Those were so so worn, I won't lecture you though. Tyres make the bike, nuff sed.
    3.) Rear shock, you have to read up on a shock swap, I have a Fox, and a Penske on my Gen 3z. Btw, my favourite VFR, nothing else compares.
    4.) Wheel bearings, if you take your wheels off and test them then replace. One of mine has 80,000 and the other has 30,000 and they are perfect.
    5.) Brakes you can generally reuse piston seals, sometime the dust seals get wasted. Take y0ur time cleaning out the grooves in the calipers with a wooden stick with some scotchbrite pads cut to match (try to avoid metal as it can gouge.) Bleeder nipples may need to be replaced, I used HEL with excellent results.
    Peace and I know that the Backyard Babies are Swedish and Volbeat are from Denmark but anyway, Rock On.
     

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  6. Blackslide

    Blackslide New Member

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    I was thinking of going with the 10w that was stated in the service manual I've got, but a stiffer spring and 7w fluid would be better? (As in faster bump and rebound action with a little stiffer feel?)

    I know, my tires are shot, going to replace with brand new sport/touring tires (I do favour ironbutt rides over short sprints ;) )

    Apparently the 89-91 stock shock is a basic non-adjustable unit. They added preload adjustment into the 92-93 model.
    I guess an adjustment is recommended for two up riding. I'm interested in the ZX-14 rear shock swap, at least it seems quite straightforward in the youtube video... But since someone stated that all stock shocks are "not that good", so I'm wondering if a properly set up aftermarket shock would be a better choice, albeit quite expensive... as in, is it worth it in a street bike? :/

    I'll check the wheels for any play, mounted and unmounted, once I get it on a proper stand (or improvised one). I doubt they might be pitted, since she's been standing in a shed for years.

    Yes, the calipers seem like a quality unit, so a rebuild seems easy. I was actually thinking of getting braided lines and bleeders from HEL :) (brakes feel a bit lackluster)

    Thanks for the hints, and keep the rubber side down!
    [​IMG]

    Riding on the storm
     
    Last edited: Jun 15, 2019 at 7:31 AM
  7. ridervfr

    ridervfr Member

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    Hi, nice TT! I got HEL on both of my Gen3 bikes and think they are worth the extra money, I had a bleeder issue and they saved my bacon as I was getting weeping on the threads of the bleeder where it screwed into the caliper. Chalk it up to old components, I used a liquid teflon Locktite product in the past but was happy after talking with them that the tolerances on their stainless bleeders where better than the OEM honda stuff. Don't forget about your master cylinders/clutch too. They get dirty and an over-haul is not ruled out of your future (easy job - sometimes it can bite you on the butt though.)

    I have a Fox shock which I bought new back in 1995 that was overhauled by Fox a few times. On my 93 I scored a used Penske shock which I sent back to the factory to have the correct spring installed and re-built. It was still cheaper than buying a new unit.
     

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  8. squirrelman#1

    squirrelman#1 New Member

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    @ 40k miles, the steering head bearings may need replacement, but at least clean and regrease them.
     
  9. ridervfr

    ridervfr Member

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    No free dance right? Have my maintenance records in the garage, I am gona look. 76,000 miles done 0911 - bike only accrued another 4000 miles in 8 years? Man I feel ashamed. It does get a yearly oil change btw. I remember when I did the steering head bearings on this bike, I could tell as soon as I backed out of my garage it felt different. So there is my story. Hi Jerry :wave:
     
  10. Darth Vader

    Darth Vader New Member

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    With the bike on its centre stand ,and a helper pushing down on the back, push a length of wood between the headers from the sump to the floor. The front end can be removed, it looks very unsafe but works
     
  11. Blackslide

    Blackslide New Member

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    Yes, I'm going to change those when I pull the forks, 3rd party bearings are quite cheap. I started taking bits and pieces off the bike and the brake/clutch fluids were totally useless..

    I laid her down accidentially, bending the mirror and breaking a footpeg in the process.. I also "built" a service stand.[​IMG][​IMG][​IMG]

    Riding on the storm
     
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