5th gen Braided Brake Line Options - Advice and Opinions Wanted

I do not want to purchase a 5th gen "kit". Only want two line front and single rear using the stock calipers.

The question is will the lines for a 4th gen do the job, or is the routing and/or length diferent?
Haven't found any theads regarding interchangability.

 

Okay, looking at some photos I can answer one question. The rear line on the 5th gen is longer because the caliper is mounted on the bottom side of the disc, whereas the 4th gen is mounted on the top.

Any of you who have delinked and used a single line have a part number for Galfer, Spiegler,Hel, or other?

 

What is your plan for de-linking and using just 2 lines front and 1 rear with the stock calipers?

 

I plan to disable the center pistons on the front, remove all the linked pipe work, fill the second master on the left fork leg with silicone grease and plug it,purchase a 14mm master for the rear, and drill a connecting hole in the center bore of the rear caliper.

The brake lines are 26 years old, and feeling spongy. I rebuilt all three calapers earlier in the spring, and am not happy yet.

I think that I remember you mentioning using less expensive braded lines on your bikes, Captain. Didn't you use a heat shrink to protect the line and the areas that they may come into contact with?

 

I've also measured mine using a section of heavy extention cord (it's what I had on hand).
I wish I was that close to a supplier, must be nice!

 

Thanks mello for the input and link.

I may be mistaken in my thinking, but as I understand the front curcut there is no change in ratio because the stock setup is also only connecting the master and the 4 outside pistons.

While it would be nice to eliminate the excess weight, I also just rebuilt the forks by tearing them down, cleaning all the sludge out and fitting new seals. So I'm not inclined to remove the stock lowers and buy a used set from another model at this point.

 

Anyone know what the thread pitch is on the banjo bolts?

I'm guessing they are 1.25.

 

Yes that is the way I view the front calipers as well. You could potentially do the same drill-out on the front calipers as you plan on the back, but then you would probably need to change the master to match. IIRC the 6G VFR has the three right pistons already connected, just the single left centre piston is part of the LBS.

When I delinked my last 5G I just joined the two stock rear hoses to my updated master; no need to drill the caliper and in fact I never ever unbolted the hoses there. The original linking hose is a perfect fit/geometry to reach to the master.

 

Thanks Terry! I suspect that the orignal brake lines are failing internally, and I would like to have more "feel" and not have to either pull the front master lever or push the rear pedal down the long distance that I currently have been. The other advantage to a single line is (in theory) less air to bleed from the system.

 

Just placed and order with them. Fingers crossed that my measurements are correct, and that they show up soon. I have a potential track day coming up the first Friday of August, and would like to have the brakes up to snuff.

Btw if anyone is interested in ordering new lines, they are having a "4th of July" sale for an unlisted time frame.

Code Description Qty Price Total

CB4003 CUSTOM BUILT BRAKE LINE TO CUSTOMER MEASUREMENTS 3 LINES KIT
[BRAKE LINE COLOR:Carbon look]
[BANJOS / FITTINGS COLOR:Translucent Red]
[LOGO TAG COLOR:Black with White Logo]
[Brake Line Length - Line 1:30 inch]
[Line 1 End fitting 1:10-F / Forward 10 degree bend 10mm banjo]
[Line 1 End fitting 2:10-F / Forward 10 degree bend 10mm banjo]
[Mounting Grommets:2 Grommets]
[Line 1 Bolt 1:double length 10mm X 1.25 stainless bolt]
[Line 1 Bolt 2:Single length 10mm X 1.25 stainless bolt]
[Brake Line Length - Line 2:33 inches]
[Line 2 End Fitting 1:10-F / Forward 10 Degree bend 10mm Banjo]
[Line 2 End Fitting 2:10-S / Side 10 Degree bend 10mm Banjo]
[Mounting Grommets - Line 2:3 Grommets]
[Line 2 Bolt 1:Single Length 10mm X 1.25 Stainless Bolt]
[Line 2 Bolt 2:Single Length 10mm X 1.25 Stainless Bolt]
[Brake Line Length - Line 3::45 Inch]
[Line 3 End Fitting 1:45-F / Forward 45 Degree bend 10mm Banjo]
[Line 3 End Fitting 2:Straight 10mm Banjo]
[Mounting Grommets - Line 3:3 Grommets]
[Line 3 Bolt 1:Single Length 10mm X 1.25 Stainless Bolt]
[Line 3 Bolt 2:Single Length 10mm X 1.25 Stainless Bolt] 1 $152.80 $152.80

Subtotal: $152.80
Tax: $0.00
Shipping & Handling: $11.60
Grand Total: $164.40

 

New lines came in the mail July 18th.
Made a "Best Offer" deal on a 14mm rear master that arrived a couple of days prior.

 

I finally made time to remove the front lines from the front master to the calipers, and installed the new braded lines last weekend.

In the process I drained all of the brake fluid from the master and removed it from the clip-on, wiped it clean first with a new dry shop towel then with another new towel with a light coating of brake cleaner sprayed over it.

Then I took a wire that I had pulled from a new wire brush and used it to prod the return bleed hole in the bottom of the master (the tiny one that has the hood/ cover over it).

Satisfied with the cleaning, I clamped the master back in place, routed the lines, and connected them using the new banjo bolts and crush washers that came with the new lines.

It took more time than I expected to bleed the air out of the system, but I was able to "get-her-done".

As I pumped the lever, I could see that the bleed/ return hole was clear by the small fountain of brake fluid that would erupt from it. Having confirmed a clear return I used a needle nose plier to carefully reinstall the "hood/ cover.

All seemed good, no leaks, drips, puddles, or "sponginess".

 

I often re-purpose lines from parts bikes or eBay auctions for brake line lots that are way cheaper than what they are worth. I then use some 3:1 shrink ratio to cover stained braiding or yellowed coating and give it a stock appearance. The 3/4 3:1 will go over in place banjos. And, yes, it also a great protector as it is thick and has adhesive that releases when heated that seals the whole line against moisture and corrosion.

 

Here is where I could use some help!

The whole reason that I began to look for new lines.......... Well, the front brakes were dragging.

I noticed the dragging when I flushed the front, rear, and clutch brake fluid earlyer in the spring. I had the bike up on my copy of the Sky Lift, and the front brake would not compleatly release. The first place that I checked was that bleed/ return hole in the master. I poked that tiny hole with a tiny wire from my wire brush, and could feel the spring as I gently worked the lever ( so I assume that I am completely through the hole). The next check was to open the bleed nipple to release the pressure from the line. Nothing happened when opening either one of the bleed nipples. No difference what so ever!

Think, think, think.............OH, it must be the original rubber lines have collapsed internally and are in effect acting as check valves! Time to replace the lines. That is what started this thread.

So, new lines installed. Problem solved, right? Nooooo!

The only thing that comes to my simple mind is this; I have Speedbleeders installed. Could they take a bit of pressure without releasing any brake fluid when open, and thus there is some pressure still in the system yet?

Also, do I really need to completly disassemble the master cylinder in order to clear the return/ bleed hole in it? And if the bleed/ return hole is plugged, why do I see a small guiser coming from that hole every time I pull the lever?

 

Oh, forgot to mention that I also removed, cleaned, and compleatly rebuilt all three calipers with new seals. The pistons cleaned up very well, and after a second cleaning of both of the front calipers I was able to install all six pistons with very little pressure ( they slide in and out very smoothly, no sticking).

 

Thanks for the reply, Mello.
Good suggestions, I'll double check the spring clips next chance I have. As far as the slide pins, yes, they are lubed well. I have pushed the pads apart, one caliper at a time, to see if there was any difference between the two and found no difference ( did that six or seven times)! The one thing that I have found is that if I lightly apply the brakes the calipers will release. But when a solid handful of brake pressure is applied, they will not.

As far as the new lines are concerned, I'm happy with the quality and look. I'll post a photo soon. I've only installed/ upgraded the front lines so far. I wasn't haveing any issues with the rear or the linked system (other than the amount of brake fluid and time it takes to bleed them).