The first bike I had ridden was a VFR750. It was this bike that forged my desire for a bike. I then sought out to purchase one myself many years later; however, I wanted to stay away from carburetors. Having purchased a '99 VFR800 about three years ago for the cheapest I could find, it was not without problems. I loved the bike off the bat and had found that I had "THE VFR", at least what many would consider the jewel of the lineage. It had faded paint all around, a busted top cowl from a drop, a dying RR, and a LCD display that was on the fritz. In spite of these ails, she was relatively low mileage with the maintenance kept up, pretty solid and without any other cosmetic woes or mechanical gremlins, not even a dent in the gas tank. I purchased another, '04 6TH Gen, to cut my teeth on and learn while I would restore, make mine, the 5TH. The plan was to sell the 6TH after the completion of the 5TH. Well after riding the 6TH for two years and doing all sorts of maintenance, I decided to keep both! In hindsight, I would have been through with the 5TH long ago; the fifth was just a better example mechanically and cosmetically only needing paint... All in all, after getting both bikes at my current location, on a whim I decided to dive into repairing the LCD. I had read about the common problem on forums here and there. Here were the symptoms: 1) Speedometer & RPM gauges worked. 2) Backlighting worked. 3) The LCD did present the proper information only when viewed from a difficult off-angle/axis direction. 4) Supertwist of the LCD panel looked like it was on the fritz, or that the LCD's microcontroller was stuck in its initialization. 5) A repair had been attempted. 6) The clock did not stay on when the ignition was turned off (learned this from the 6TH). Was it the harness, the PCB, or a combination? Did the dying RR fry the voltage regulator on the back of the LCD assembly or its brain? Well, simplicity won out. The attempted repair was all wrong but gave some clues and provided hardware. THE FIX: After first cleaning the PCB contact pads with 000 steel wool and soaking, cleaning the screws/hardware, and reassembling with Deoxit, the symptoms remained. Consulting the schematic revealed the error in the jumper after tracing the clock (always on) wire to the PCB. There was battery voltage at the harness plug and continuity from that to point A. There was continuity from point A to point B. There was no continuity from point B to the contact pad on the PCB. The trace was broken (circled in red). Instead of jumping from the harness, I chose to repair the PCB with a portion of the incorrectly jumped wiring & solder/shrink wrap repair the place where the splice (poor) had been made. Using a soldering iron, I first applied solder to its tip and tinned the jumper's lead. Then I added a small amount of solder to the tip of the iron letting the solder and not the tip sink heat to the pad. I then pressed the jumper into place. To ensure a good solder joint, I momentarily heated the pad/lead with the tip until molten for just a second and allowed it to cool. That was to ensure that I did not damage the PCB ($200 for PCB and case last I checked). Here are the results! The LCD now works properly, and the clock stays on when the bike is turned off. I have not yet reattached the gas tank, as there are other things to do. I do not anticipate any other hiccups with that circuitry, but further testing will tell in the long run. The idea was to keep the jumper on the PCB if possible and not directly from the harness. If the gauge assembly had to be removed in the future, that would be one extra piece to remove. This way, I believe that someone could go behind me and instantly tell what the problem was initially. Thanks to the forums out there & the aforementioned failed attempt that got me going. It goes without saying that working behind others can be a challenge. If this helps someone in the future, awesome!