86 VFR orphan rescue

Discussion in '1st & 2nd Generation 1983-1989' started by chuntera, Oct 16, 2019.

  1. chuntera

    chuntera New Member

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    I decided to have a go at a 86 VFR700 that has been garage parked for over a decade.
    Single owner machine, with 20k miles, original bodywork included, came with boxes of spares, etc.
    Found it on local craigslist; had to outbid a breaker who wanted to part it out, the PO (OO?) let it go for $800. Even if it never runs again I can use the parts on my 87 VFR.

    My first order of business was to clean out the cobwebs and rodent stuffing from various crevices. I didn't see any rodent marks on the wiring so hopefully the mice were transients and not permanent residents.

    I would like to check if the engine rotates freely. I've done orphan rescues for small offroad singles. With those I would apply penetrating fluid to piston via spark plug hole and rotate crankshaft by hand.

    What is best approach for a multi-cyl v4 ? Can I turn over engine by hand ?
     
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  2. squirrelman

    squirrelman Member

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    click it into 3rd gear and push the bike, but some oil the cylinders first.
     
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  3. Captain 80s

    Captain 80s Member

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    The VFR has an o-ring sealed access plug on the right crankcase that will allow you to turn it over by hand if you want.

    Glad you saved it from a breaker, good luck.
     
  4. sixdog

    sixdog Member

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    I bought this one in boxes....spent about a year on it. I am very happy I saved it and very sorry I sold it.... DSC01427.JPG DSC01424.JPG
     
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  5. RS125

    RS125 New Member

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    Always nice to save one. Either option given should be what you need
     
  6. chuntera

    chuntera New Member

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    Thanks for the great advice, I am by no means a professional mechanic.

    So far this hasn't worked. Does the starter motor need to be removed first ?

    I put a ratchet on this bolt while in neutral but so far nothing is turning yet.

    I pulled off the valve covers and the cams look good, no pitting.
    I poured some oil into the cylinders and topped up the crankcase. I think I will let it percolate for a week or two.
     
  7. chuntera

    chuntera New Member

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    Matching rear stand very nice :)
    The one I'm working on also has Kerker exhaust.
     
  8. jeremyr62

    jeremyr62 New Member

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    Try it in top gear then. The starter motor is on a clutch so you don't need to remove it. In top gear (6th) you should be able to rotate the engine by rotating the rear wheel by hand (just).
     
  9. chuntera

    chuntera New Member

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    A did a couple more lube applications via sparkplug holes then left to soak for a week. Motor still does not turn.
    I put a breaker bar on the 17mm bolt attached to RH end of the crankshaft. I can turn the bolt but not the motor. I also tried putting bike in 3rd gear and pushing but no joy.

    I am thinking next step remove the camshafts and see if motor will turn without operating the valves.
     
  10. squirrelman

    squirrelman Member

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    removing cams very unlikely to help. most probably piston rings stuck to cylinder walls.
     
  11. chuntera

    chuntera New Member

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    You are very likely correct.

    I don't feel there is enough mechanical advantage turning the starter clutch, I am also worried about shearing the bolt. I drained the oil and pulled the starter motor (looking for another point to torque on the motor) but I don't see an easy way to attach an extension to the starter gear.

    Ideally I want to put breaker bar on the end of the crankshaft. Would the stator rotor bolt be sturdy enough to handle a breaker bar ?

    I pulled the 4-1 muffler and front exhaust pipes. Photo below is what came out #2 front exhaust. The #4 front exhaust came out clean.
    [​IMG]
     
  12. chuntera

    chuntera New Member

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    After soaking for over a month the engine is still seized. Cylinders 2 & 3 have some movement, #2 would spit fluid out the sparkplug hole when I bounced the the starter clutch bolt. However no movement from cyls 1 & 4

    This weekend I removed the heads to see condition of the pistons. Both 1 & 4 had sludge buildup on top of the piston.

    This photo of the front 2 &4 cylinders was taken immediately after removing front head (#4 is on the left).
    [​IMG]


    The next photo is after quick cleanup of #4. Definitely rust on the cylinder walls. Possibly pitting of piston surface below the "MK" stamp and some carbon buildup around the exhaust valve.
    [​IMG]


    Photo of #2 cyl after wipedown with a shop towel soaked in MMO. #2 also has some rust on the walls
    [​IMG]



    Rear cylinders after removing the rear head (#1 is left in photo). The red fluid is ATF + Marvel Mystery Oil I used to soak the pistons.
    [​IMG]


    After cleanup #3 looks pretty good, no rust on the walls. Sorry I forgot to take a photo.

    #1 is close to top of its stroke so I can't see condition of the cylinder walls. #1 & #3 pistons cleaned up much better than 2 & 4.
     
    Last edited: Dec 15, 2019
  13. Jim McCulloch

    Jim McCulloch New Member

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    Are those acorns? Pretty industries rodent at work there!
     
  14. chuntera

    chuntera New Member

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    Still working on this project is spurts.
    Over December holiday, the motor came out of the frame
    [​IMG]

    [​IMG]


    Next the motor spent several weeks upside down while soaking the piston bottoms.
    [​IMG]

    After several weeks the motor was still seized. A few weeks ago it moved to the workbench
    [​IMG]
     
  15. chuntera

    chuntera New Member

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    Motor disassembly on the workbench.

    Clutch & starter gear removed. To remove the clutch center nut, I took a dremel cutoff wheel to a cheap 12pt socket, not a precision tool for sure but it did the job.
    [​IMG]


    I used a generic 22mm x 1.5 "flywheel puller" tool to remove the alternator rotor. Top part of stator is discolored.
    [​IMG]

    Engine bottom under oil pan (oil pickup strainer & pressure relief valve emoved)
    [​IMG]

    After removal oil feed tubes & oil pump
    [​IMG]


    Lower cranckcase bolts removed. The cardboard square shows pattern for bottom 18 bolts holding upper & lower crankcase halves. The upper crankcase has another 10 bolts holding halves together.
    [​IMG]


    And finally upper & lower crankcases separated
    [​IMG]
     
  16. chuntera

    chuntera New Member

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    After separating the crankcases, I removed the pistons. Three pistons came out easily enough; #4 piston required mechanical persuasion, it has a bad case of the rusties
    [​IMG]


    Unfortunately there is significant pitting / corrosion on the #4 cylinder sleeve.
    [​IMG]
     
  17. chuntera

    chuntera New Member

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    The standard rebuild procedure is rebore the cylinders and install oversize pistons & piston rings. However I don't expect to find oversize pistons for a 34yo motorcycle. Also there is probably more corrosion can be cleaned up by removing a few thousandths from the cylinder sleeves.
     
  18. squirrelman

    squirrelman Member

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    nice work tryin to fixit. maybe blew a headgasket if coolant got into that cylinder and caused rust.
     
  19. Paul Myers

    Paul Myers New Member

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    You could probably get custom pistons and rings from JE pistons for a reasonable cost.

    Your findings are very interesting and I'm guessing what I will find as I undertake a similar project.


    I have a 1986 VFR750 that I bought new while in university. I was riding it regularly until 2002 when I was at a track day and low sided. About this time I was getting into car racing and the bike sat. Eventually it was moved to the shed. I'm still mad at myself for not prepping it for storage.

    Some advantages I have are:
    I bought another 1986 VFR as a project bike and had stripped it down to start so I have all the parts from it.
    I also have a set of brand new higher compression pistons from Dynamo Humm and Carillo rods that were intended for the project. ( you could probably order the same as they must have the blanks)

    My current plan is to take the engine from my project 86 VFR750 (already stripped down). Re-assemble and install it in my street 86 VFR750.
    The engine removed from my street VFR will get torn down, bored and the JE pistons and Carillo rods installed.

    I have a set of spare heads with valves and camshafts but they are missing the rocker springs and retainer plate. They seem to be unobtanium now so I am going to see if I can get some made using a form, spring wire, heating and heat treatment with oil. I'll keep my eyes open for used but not very likely to find.
     
  20. Captain 80s

    Captain 80s Member

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    I have a set of 71mm Cosworth pistons and rings for a VFR that I will probably never use if you decide to go the oversize route.
     
    Last edited: Feb 26, 2020
    Robert Strong likes this.
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