8th Gen VFR800 Oil Change Guide

Discussion in '8th Generation 2014-Present' started by thtanner, Jul 22, 2017.

  1. thtanner

    thtanner New Member

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    A couple of people have expressed some frustration over the 8th Gen oil change procedure, so I thought I would quickly make a rundown with pictures to help anyone who has questions in future. It took me roughly 30 minutes end-to-end the second time I did this.

    First, and foremost, you need the tools...
    • Allen key (included in tool-kit)
    • "Phillips" (actually JIS) screwdriver (included in tool-kit)
    • 10mm socket
    • 17mm socket
    • Torque wrench
    • Oil filter wrench (do *not* skip this - Honda P/N 07HAA-PJ70101 or 07AMA-MFJA100)
    ...as well as the consumables.
    • 4qt Honda GN4 10w30 (3.3qt used)
    • 1 Crush Washer (Honda P/N 94109-12000)
    • 1 Oil Filter (Honda P/N 15410-MFJ-D01)
    [​IMG]

    Notes
    • "screw-type" pins are removed by unscrewing them until the middle plastic part separates from the body of the pin visibly. Pull outward to remove. Installation is reverse of removal; press middle part in to secure.
    • "pin-type" pins are removed by pressing the middle of the pin in, pull outward to remove. For installation, pull the middle plastic pin piece so it is poking out of the pin. Push the pin body into the hole and press the middle of the pin in to secure. All this makes sense the second you touch them.
    • A US "Standard" model was used to document this procedure. The portion about the lower radiator bolt only seems to apply to AC and II AC models (America/Canada.) I am unsure if you need to do that portion on the ROTW models. It will be very apparent if so, when you go to remove the filter.

    1. Remove left-lower-side fairing.
    • 3 allen screws - front one is the 'smaller' one
    • 2 "screw-type" plastic pins
    • 1 "pin-type" plastic pin
    • Pull reward to unhook from side fairing
    2. Remove right-lower-side fairing.
    • 2 allen screws - front one is the 'smaller' one
    • 1 "screw-type" plastic pins
    • 1 "pin-type" plastic pin
    • Pull reward to unhook from side fairing
    [​IMG]
    [​IMG]

    3. Remove radiator grill cover.
    • 2 "pin-type" plastic pins
    • 2 allen screws
    • Pull top of grill forward to unseat from rubber retainers
    • Pull upward and remove, may have to slightly manipulate left and ride side fairings
    [​IMG]

    4. Remove 17mm oil drain bolt; drain oil. Trash the old crush washer.
    [​IMG]

    5. Remove 10mm bolt securing lower part of the lower radiator (accessible via left-hand side.)
    [​IMG]

    6. Loosen oil filter (using the oil filter wrench; the filter will be quite tight on your first oil change!)
    [​IMG]

    7. Pull lower portion of lower radiator forward, and remove the oil filter through the left-hand side of the headers as shown.
    [​IMG]

    8. Pour some oil in your new filter, and use your finger to lubricate the o-ring on the filter with engine oil.

    9. Install oil filter reverse of the removal. Tighten oil filter to 19ft-lb.

    10. Reinstall oil fill bolt with new crush washer. Tighten to 22ft-lb.

    11. Fill the bike with 3.2qt of oil. Use the marks on the side of the bottle to roughly gauge the .2qt from the fourth bottle.

    12. Start the bike for 3-5 minutes. Let stand for 2 minutes.

    13. Have someone stand the bike upright, and ensure oil is between the lines in the sight glass. Add an additional .1qt if needed to bring near top fill line.

    14. Ensure there are no leaks.

    15. Install the lower radiator's lower 10mm bolt to secure.

    16. Install the radiator grill reverse of removal. Plastic pins in the bottom, allen bolts on top.

    17. Reinstall right-lower-side fairing reverse of removal. Ensure the rear portion of the fairing hooks onto the bike.

    18. Reinstall the left-lower-side fairing reverse of removal.

    Let me know if something was not clear or if anyone has any questions. A downloadable/printable PDF can be found here: http://www.thtanner.com/files/2014-2015 Honda VFR800F Oil Change Guide.pdf
     
    Last edited: Jul 23, 2017
  2. A.M

    A.M Moderator Staff Member

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    WOW :Clap2:

    This is an amazing thread that will help many others, not just 8th gen owners. Thank you!

    Your notes about how to remove the different pins: SUPER

    Here's a virtual cheers to you!
    If I be there, I'd buy you a real drink! :Tea:
     
  3. Bubba Utah

    Bubba Utah Member

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    Can you create printable instructions for this? and email it to me?
     
  4. thtanner

    thtanner New Member

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  5. Samuel

    Samuel Member

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  6. A.M

    A.M Moderator Staff Member

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    WOW...printable PDF?!
    Where do we send some real drinks?
    Thank you!
     
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  7. Bubba Utah

    Bubba Utah Member

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    I will say that there is something to be said of (being sober/having all of your tools/having correct lighting Daylight and a head set light helped as well in the garage/getting a filter cup wrench at the auto parts store for less than $6 bucks instead of ordering a Honda one for $23 since everything today is closed for the stupid holiday and three cups of coffee to get you motivated. Thanks thtanner for the details that I was thinking about, but did not do or the manual does not mention. (taking off the bracket to the radiator and the front cover for the radiator that I am guessing gave better flexibility to push on the radiator without breaking something)

    Also a shout out to Allyance for mentioning that the bolts are different sizes to cut down on the aggravation as well, since I knew in advance and looked at the diameters as I put them back. 3o mins later and I quart of oil spilt on the floor do to kicking it and I was done.

    Total cost ($40 for Synthetic oil, $6 for the wrench, 3 posts making me look like an idiot, four trips to getting and returning shit that did not work, $2 worth of paper towels to clean up the oil split, 2 apologies to elderly passerbys walking dogs for swearing like a sailor working on it and finally a $13 for a 12 pk of beer afterwards for right now!) Now does anyone need a couple of plastic plugs since I seem to have a couple extra!;-)
     
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  8. Bubba Utah

    Bubba Utah Member

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    I do have one question, I did find a rubber gasket that fell when I tried to put the new filter on. I could not get it back on the bike and thought it may have been the gasket from the previous filter. I do not have any leaks that I can see right now and ran the bike for a while to see if dripping occurred. Non yet. Let me know if I have failed to put something back that is needed. Took it for a ride of about 25miles and temp was good and no warning oil light so I hope all is good. Thanks

    Mike D.
     
  9. A.M

    A.M Moderator Staff Member

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    Oh muh lordie!!!!

    What size is this gasket you found? Did you check the old filter to see if it had one? If it did, I'd be taking that new filter off and checking everything.

    I know, just what you wanted to hear. But you don't want a catastrophic oil failure. Those aren't terribly fun no matter the cause.

    Sent from my SM-G930T using Tapatalk
     
  10. duccmann

    duccmann Member

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    thtanner great job with th post--- never ever have used a torque wrench on any drain plug or filter in any bikes I've own- just nice and snug for both
    JMO


    Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
     
  11. thtanner

    thtanner New Member

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    Did you have the seat off? There is a black huge round rubber thing used to retain the toolkit, etc. That could be it.
     
  12. Bubba Utah

    Bubba Utah Member

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    Thanks but that is not it. Did you put the oil filter on to metal or to another rubber seal? I see in your picture that it looks like rubber. And then I noticed a little notch on the left side , while trying to figure out where it goes saw that notch as part of the engine case. literally this thing fell down after trying to screw on the new filter and lost grip and both the filter and this o-ring falling down. I played with it and tried to see where it would stay. I had to hold it to the engine and when I let off it would just fall. I would assume that it would have a "seat" somewhere to keep it in place if part of the original engine set up.

    IMG_0296.JPG
     
  13. thtanner

    thtanner New Member

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    Did that maybe come off the old filter? It looks similar to the rubber seen on the actual filter itself.

    [​IMG]
     
  14. Bubba Utah

    Bubba Utah Member

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    It is the same size as the opening of the engine case for the filter. I would imagine that the filter with the seal would go against the metal engine case. The gasket or o-ring is larger than coming from farther into the engine. I don't know.
     
  15. thtanner

    thtanner New Member

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    Really looks like the seal ripped off the old filter when you took it off. It was under a ton of tension, so I can see it happening.
     
  16. Bubba Utah

    Bubba Utah Member

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    Thanks again tanner, That is it I am almost positive. It must have come off the metal and stuck to the engine when the rest of the filter was "Crushed off" ;-) The new filter I have has a different seal than this one and does not have that metal lip.
     
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  17. fink

    fink Member

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    There rubber from the old filter came off when IMG_0302.JPG IMG_0303.JPG I removed mine.
     
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  18. duccmann

    duccmann Member

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    So baby VFR on the way?


    Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
     
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  19. A.M

    A.M Moderator Staff Member

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    Haha, Duckie!

    Bubba better watch his rubbers better too. That was a scary close call to not know what they heck happened...
     
  20. Bubba Utah

    Bubba Utah Member

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    Being 50 I hope not! Do not have the patience to raise up a little VFR!;-) I never want to be a single parent! Changing oil every day, getting those 2 am wake ups for a ride, having to buy a new house with a bigger garage, having to buy the most expensive tires because all the other little VFR's have them. Multiple riding courses that are expensive Etc....
     
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