Well, my wife mentioned that the rear sets on my 97 VFR750 looked really good and since the rear sets on her newly purchased 96 VFR were looking rather weathered, she asked if we could polish the rear sets on her bike. Seeing as her bike is silver, I agreed that the polished rear sets would be a great addition to the bike. As a result my son and I left the house with the purpose of procuring the tools required to polish up the rear sets. My son Liam and I headed first to the local tool outlet store to see if I could find a buffer. When I did the polishing to the rear sets on my last bike I used a 3" sewn cotton buff attached to a corded drill, and though it worked fine, it took about 8 to 10 hours per rear set. I also managed to just about kill the drill. I figured this time around I would try to find the right tool for the job. When we got to the local tool store I talked with one of the employees and he suggested a 1/4 HP Baldor buffer with a pair of 6" sewn cotton buffs. For those who are unsure what the polisher looks like it is nearly identical to a bench grinder with two exceptions. The shafts that you attach the buffer wheels to are about 5" long and provide you with increased clearance from the buff wheel to the motor housing. The other major difference is that the buffer operates at a much lower speed (1600 RPM versus 3800 RPM). I polished up the first piece, the left hand drivers rear set, as it was the easiest to remove and the least complicated piece to polish. After using just the jewelers rouge the piece turned out really good, but it did take a fair bit of time as the rear sets have a minor amount of texture (likely from the casting process) and are not perfectly smooth. After polishing the first rear set I learned two things. One - This was going to take a bit of time, though not as long seeing as how I now have the right tool. Two - Getting rid of the texture with polishing alone was just not going to cut it (pardon the pun. The solution, after watching a few videos on YouTube, was to wet sand the parts first in order to knock down the texture, and then polish them afterwards. First step was to thoroughly clean the parts and then wet sand them with 600 grit sand paper. I followed this with 1200 grit sand paper to smooth out the sanding marks. After this I used the buffer with black tripoli (jewelers rouge) and then finally with green tripoli to really bring out the shine. Here are a couple of pictures of the actual process. First picture shows what the right side, drivers rear set looked like prior to polishing. All the rear sets looked a little weathered and not very shiny. The driver's rear set looked the worst by far and thus the reason my wife wanted to do something with them. This next picture shows what the parts looked like during the process. Working from left to right in the following photo you see the drivers right side right side rear set - untouched, the passengers left rear set - after wet sanding with both 600 and 1200 grit, and the passenger right side rear set - after polishing. Here is a picture with all three process done on one part. From left to right in the following picture you can see the polished part on the left, 1000 grit wet sanded area in the middle, and the 600 grit wet sanded area on the right. And last but not least. THE FINISHED PRODUCT. All the pieces in the following picture have been wet sanded and polished and to prevent the lustre from disappearing I decided to apply a layer of automotive clear coat paint to all the pieces. Originally I was going to use an aluminum sealer of some sort, but the guy who owns the wheel repair shop a few doors down from me at work suggested that the clear coat would last longer and look better. What I learned during this process is that wet sanding the parts to prep them for polishing, though a bit time consuming, was more than worth the effort to achieve the luster of the finished product. If I had tried to use the buffer to get rid of the light texturing that existed on the pieces, I would have been there for a long time. The other thing worth mentioning is that this is a MESSY job. DO NOT wear your average jeans and a t-shirt while doing this, you will get so dirty that your wife will NOT let you back in the house. A couple of things that I discovered to come in very handy were a full body disposable painters suit to wear while doing the polishing saves a whole lot of time in cleaning up yourself. It is a good idea to wear a dust mask of some sort to prevent breathing in all the polish compound that flies off the buffer wheel. Safety glasses are a definite must for the exact same reason as the dust mask. Another thing that came in handy was a sheet of plastic to cover the work area and the floor to keep everything from getting aluminum dust and polish compound all over the floor, and thus clean up was a snap. Just take the plastic sheet outside, shake it off, roll it back up and leave it for use at some later date. The total amount of time taken including the wet sanding was about 8 hours. This also included a couple of breaks to partake in a cool beverage of the barley variety. I will add a picture of what the parts look like installed on the bike once I get a chance to put everything back together.