Amsoil oil is the best oil period!!! Please read

Repsol is a Spanish owned company. They have sponsored Honda's GP racing arm since 1995. My guess is that the oil used in both the two-stoke and four-stroke GP engines was formulated for those engines. GP bikes differ greatly from street bike technology. A better analogy are the various "Superbike" classes.

This is just one of several "lifetime" filters available.

Filters - Pure Power! EHP® Lifetime Oil Filter CLEANABLE & REUSABLE (Direct Replacement Spin-on) - PurePower!, Inc.

Pricy initially but they pay for themselves even at 200 a pop eventually.

Semper Fi from the "AF Trash" end of the deal and nephew of Gunny Hugo Lewis who told me what he did mostly, was to have coffee with the First Sergeants.

 

How do they make baby oil? I mean don't people get angry about the distilling process? At least it's renewable...

 

If baby oil is distilled from babies, is amsoil distilled from ams?

 

I'm not even sure what ams is/are...

 

I was actually talking about K&N OIL filters, not air...

Though I've been told I need an air filter for my pie hole...

 

Never tried a K&N oil filter. Before I switched to a "lifetime" for the VFR I bought Honda oil filters six at a time online.

I have K&N air filters on the VFR and two other bikes. Great products.

 

I use mobil 1 mx4t synthetic. I dived into the oil debate thing for a bit then got tired of it and picked what could be a decent oil. One of the best things is they have it at stores close by and its expensive enough so I think I am getting a really good oil for my bike.

 

I have no idea about all these fancy smanshy oils but recently did the switch from reg to semi-synth. What a difference! Oh, also went from the CDN recommendation 10-30 to 10-40. Best thing I have done so far I think.

 

That's a great question, since synthetic ain't dead dinos; if it were, I'd say you got a couple million years ;-), but since it ain't, who the Hell knows?

I've been using K&N OIL filters in my 4-wheel vehicles (cars, SUVs and two Cummings Turbo Diesels) for years now, and I think they're great; they have a bolt on the back of the filter, in case it gets stuck, and a hole in the bolt, for "stay put" wire. They're paper inside, and K&N says they're the best, but who knows? Hence the reason I asked if anyone knew something special. I checked their website, and they DO carry them for Vffers... I'll probably try it when the time comes.

 

Just put the K&N oil filter on today. I'll let you know next time I change it how it looks like it fared.

The factory oil filter was hanging on for dear life! I have to put a hole in it with a screwdriver and hammer, then use the hole as a drive point and hammer it around! Second vehicle I've had to do that to, both new from the factory. Pain in the rear end...

 

You could try buying a socket type oil filter wrench-works great:

Amazon.com: Lisle 63600 Import Car Filter Wrench: Automotive

Put a K&N on my VFR last time because the guys at one of the local Honda dealers were retarded when my wife went in and failed to sell her what she asked for, seems to be fine, doubt it's any better than OEM.

 

Well first; I have a nice socket wrench, and this thing was on so tight I just rounded off the end of the filter...

As for the K&N, you may be right; however, as I said they say it is better than OEM, and based on their air filter's, I'm inclined to believe it is at least no worse... The big thing for me is, they have that nice bolt welded on the back of the filter, so I don't have to worry about it getting stuck, just like the factory installed did...

 

One thing to consider is that if you quantify the differences between engine oils, it ends up being only about a tenth of a percent to two tenths of a percent.
Me? When I raced two strokes, I had fewer problems with spectro two stroke, but have been using red line for a couple of decades now, and a synthetic gear oil made by ATCO, an industrial supplier. I've been abusing differentials and transmissions in four wheelers for 40 years, and the atco comes out on top, in that I have tripled gear life, and when the oil runs away from the front trans bearings in prolonged steep climbs, I only have to replace them annually, instead of monthly.:biggrin:
I still would like to see a series of tests that Amsoil did not pay for......


Oil analysis and discussion by oil engineers and professionals:

http://www.bobistheoilguy.com

 

All that test shows me is I should run M1 Vtwin 20/50. If I could only find out if 20/50 is ok in the VFR's .001 main bearing clearance??? Any one know? I never start my bike in less than 45* weather(and that temp is rare around here).

 

Yeah, you can use 20/50 in your VFR, but WHY? There are numerous 15/40s in synthetic, rotella 5/40, and lots of other stuff. All you're doing with the thick stuff is throwing away some fuel mileage and performance, and making it absolutely mandatory that you warm it up longer to preclude the possibility of cold lube marginal feed quantity potential failures. I ran 20/50 for a while this last summer, then 15/40 while trying to get more rotella 5/40. Had some cold idle issues from higher viscosity, and a small fuel mileage drop. Theoretically a possibility of reduced lubrication while cold compared to thinner oils. Pick your poison......

 

here is my 2 cents worth. Amsoil isn't the best, they have good marketing and thats about the size of it, when was the last time you saw Amsoil sponsor a motogp bike, the teams wouldnt have it. But moving on, yes synthetic has come a very long way, practically every race team in any motor sport from 4 wheels to 2 wheels uses it these days coz of the anti wear qualities and it can take more heat and be more stable for longer periods of time, not to say there is some very good minerals around too. The basic guide line of any good oil is its falex rating, unfortunately most oils dont tell you what it is, except industrial made oils they may tell you, industrial oils are cut above commercial oils, industrial doesnt mean its thick, so a min falex of 2500 is a good starting point ,v8 drag engines 3500. I spoke with a top US honda drag bike owner who spent vasts amount of money having several oils tested (sorry dont know which ones) with an independent lab they came back and said Honda's own HPR 20/50 was the best oil, so if ppl are worried about which oil to run this would be a good starting point, if you live in a very cold place then you can look for thinner one, i dont know if Honda makes one? if your going to use car oils or general purpose (non bike oils) then make sure its not for turbos or has added friction modifiers in it, coz chances are your clutch will slip (maybe not straight away) last comment for owners to think about is if you cant get a high falex rated oil then look at Bi-Tron, it is a metal treatment for extreme pressure, without going into it to much, if it was in your engine oil and you drain the oil out the Bi-Tron is still inside, it acts as a thin film barrier, do a google and read up on it, its good stuff and been around a long time and done the test of time Bi-Tron Industrial Lubrication
when looking at different oil filters you want one with the lowest micron and with a bypass vlave system so if some thing blocks the main oil filter gallery the filter will notice a difference in pressure and bypass the oil within the filter so you dont seize your motor. Good luck be lucky.

 

Thanks for that bit of info. With this thread, It's peaked my curiosity as to whats new on line in the way of writeUps. Well not much new out there(mostly the same stuff thats been around for the last 10 years) but I did find a lot more post on oil analysis and results. When I was a kid I would run RedLine oil, So I gave them a call and spoke with Dave(there oil guy). I asked them what changes have been made lately and he talked my ear off. When I went to cycle gear to buy some more Mobil1 4t 10/40 for my 5k oil change, I was surprised to fine the RedLine 10/40 motorcycle oil for $2. less per quart. I thought, what the heck! I give it a try. I've had it in the bike for a few days now. So things I've noticed, Bike feel smoother, idle is up near 200 rpm(been at 1300 as long as I have owned the bike. Now at 1500) Shifting is to close to notice a difference, all thoe it seems to fall into neutral more easy than before. Engine temp is down by 2~3* but the outside temp is about 5* cooler than last week.

Something Dave told me was the biggest difference between RL and Amsoil is film strength. I was not sure if this was true, but I did find a couple of online articles about film strength and some test that gives Amsoil a 4.2 on 10/40 and a 5.0 on 20/50, the same test showed RedLind at 4.8 for there 10/40. I cant remember the name of the test and it most likely makes no difference to us. All it showed me was Amsoil is not the best. I'd most likely try Amsoil if I could just go to the store and buy it. If the stuff is so fantastic, why has it never really come to the retail market??? I could see it the companies early stages, starting off as a mail order type deal, but why stop there? why not go big and get it in the shops?

Bottom line is this, I'f seen nothing but improvement from the RedLine oil change, so I'll stick with it and hope I can get 200k out of this VFR. Is RedLine the best? WHO CARES!

 

Snicker snicker snicker,
Guys I love these oil threads, tire,pipes, seats, shocks...you name it we got an opinion about it..I know I have only a few posts but one thing I do have is a 30 year old Suzi that has been consistantly on a diet of Mobil1 twice a year for the last 30 did I say 30 years now? Now this one doesn't get a lot of miles and recently was brough out of a hibernation so actually its only had 25 years of oil changesd...but the long and short ofit is the old bike still runs goosd and gets good fuel economy for such an old bike...No its nat fast as a VFR or any other modern sporty type bikebut it has done well these year on mobil 1car oil....has doe well....I think the important thing is to change it out....The 6 mont h intervals hasn'r hurt the bike a bit as an aside my lil Brother with the old Lincoln beater has me save my old oil for him to use..it looks like new when it comes out....I also think the syn oils vrs Dino or even a semi syn are afr superior than the dino oil....so there is anote .02...next act
Rod