Attempted VF1000F2 resurrection

Discussion in '1st & 2nd Generation 1983-1989' started by Waylander, Jul 5, 2020.

  1. Waylander

    Waylander New Member

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    I have replaced the fuel lines, with thick walled neoprene, new filter not genuine but 11mm necks

    I have cleaned the mains and pilots 3 times and checked the diaphragms for splits and holes
    The choke jets were totally blocked and took some real effort to clean

    I have fitted new O rings on the mix screws, new O rings on the fuel tubes And vent tubes

    I have set the float heights

    I have tried it with the fuel pump jumped and normal, nothing seems to change

    So today I’m going to take them off again and take them apart one at a time and record what jet is in what hole and which spring is where, to see if they are all jumbled up by the PO

    One thing I did notice is that when first started it can take the tacho between 10-15 seconds to start moving, but once moving then seems ok for the rest of the day

    Is that normal?

    Or could it be another symptom of a duff CDi


    VF1000F2F, in bits no
     
    Last edited: Sep 15, 2020
  2. Diving Pete

    Diving Pete Insider

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    Thanks for that..

    Thats all very sensible stuff.. & I'll ask some questions that im sure you have already done but would like to know the answers.

    So once done does it start fine?

    Ill assume you also synch the carbs?

    What voltage are you getting at the battery? Idle and 5000rpm

    Does it Idle correctly?

    Do all the headers heat up at the same time?


    I have once had a 'lazy' tach on an old kawasaki (88) GPX250r but not on a Honda...
     
  3. Waylander

    Waylander New Member

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    Starts on the button
    12.6 at idle 13.7 at 5k
    All seems to heat up at the same time (infrared thermometer)

    It was horrid to start with, only on two then 3 after the first clean, then on all four after second clean

    The low end gets better with every clean, the high end just gets worse

    New manifold rubbers arrived from China today 36mm, 4 for £6.53 bet they are crap


    VF1000F2F, in bits
     
  4. Diving Pete

    Diving Pete Insider

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    good to know - are you using a ultrasonic cleaner ?

    Ive used the cheap rubbers on 2 of my NC24's - worked fine - on the 24 they are slightly handed so have to ensure correct fitment. I also use a smear of red rubber grease to install the carbs. Makes all the difference.
     
  5. Waylander

    Waylander New Member

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    No don’t have an ultrasonic unfortunately

    Wish I did
    Just been handed another load of diy jobs by the mrs

    Spent the whole day replacing kitchen units yesterday

    Be nice to have some me time


    VF1000F2F, in bits
     
  6. Waylander

    Waylander New Member

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    Ok here we go

    No4
    [​IMG]
    [​IMG]
    [​IMG]

    Slow 38
    Main 162
    All clean rechecked float to 7.5

    No3
    [​IMG]
    [​IMG]
    [​IMG]

    Slow 38
    Main 162
    All clean float reset again to 7.5

    Turn round
    No1
    [​IMG]
    [​IMG]
    [​IMG]

    Slow 38
    Main 158
    All clean and float reset to 7.5

    No 2

    [​IMG]
    [​IMG]
    [​IMG]
    [​IMG]
    Main 158
    Slow 38
    All clean and float set to 7.5


    VF1000F2F, in bits
     
  7. Diving Pete

    Diving Pete Insider

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    do you have the ability to blow compressed air & how are you synching them ?
     
  8. Waylander

    Waylander New Member

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    No compressor

    And a set of vac gauges

    Is it me or are the jets huge


    VF1000F2F, in bits
     
  9. Diving Pete

    Diving Pete Insider

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    No its not just you - thought they were supposed to be 125's
     
  10. Waylander

    Waylander New Member

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    [​IMG]
    [​IMG]


    VF1000F2F, in bits
     
  11. Waylander

    Waylander New Member

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    Looked in the WSM and that says even smaller 112

    Found a post on another forum that’s says to get max power

    115 - 118 front and rear


    VF1000F2F, in bits
     
  12. Diving Pete

    Diving Pete Insider

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    good news is you can get jet kits for that bike..
     
  13. Waylander

    Waylander New Member

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    Even better news
    I have another set on an F,


    VF1000F2F, in bits
     
  14. Diving Pete

    Diving Pete Insider

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    i have 115 /118 on one of my 24's. You need new jets..
     
  15. Diving Pete

    Diving Pete Insider

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    do you know the sizes on that set...
     
  16. Waylander

    Waylander New Member

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    Not yet, I will go retrieve them on Friday and have a look as they will need a good clean


    VF1000F2F, in bits
     
  17. Captain 80s

    Captain 80s Member

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    I've always thought that too, seeing as my VF1000R are 125 front and rear stock. But my 1984 VF1000F is 150 FR and 145 RR stock.
     
  18. Waylander

    Waylander New Member

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    The manual says a lot smaller, but I will have to check it again


    VF1000F2F, in bits
     
  19. Captain 80s

    Captain 80s Member

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    I think 118 / 115 is correct for your F2.
     
  20. Dannoxyz

    Dannoxyz New Member

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    How are you cleaning those jets and emulsion tubes?

    I think symptoms of low-end getting better and high-end getting worse points to mains being way, way too big. As you ride it more and run petrol through, clogs are being removed and more and more petrol is flowing. Improves low-end, but makes high-end richer and richer.

    To really clean carbs, especially ones that sat for more than 6-months, you really need to scrub all fuel-circuits between jets and carb-venturi. Use PEA-based fuel-system cleaner and acetone mix. Same with scrubbing jets and emulsion tubes. Also poke all those bleed-holes with soft copper-wire of matching gauge. Same from other direction with mixsing-holes in venturi. Copper-wire with 90-degree bent tip comes in handy here. All parts should come out shiny and brand-new looking.

    Ultrasonic soak really loosens caked on dried-petrol varnish. Especially in deep hidden passages in carb-body you can't fully reach with scrub-brushes. Finally micro soda-blasting at end to fully clear circuits. Compressed air just pushes varnish chunks down passageways and crams them into mixing-holes at end. You need soda-blasting to break up those particles.
     
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