Carb Air Tube Connects to What on the Bike

either way, easier w carbs off

 

Well they are on right now so I will take the air box back off and have a look see. Can I get sufficient material down the throats do you think should I do this if on the bike with the engine running?

 

not running

 

Cool. Thanks again.

So ....Squirrelman , How are you?

 

settelin in for fewer riding days battery out on a charger, just hope its not like 2018 again......

 

View attachment 100831 This was last week. Buffalo Pass Chuska Mtns. They close this pass on the res. for winter. I rode yesterday in jacket and jeans. Your old area by NE NM had over two feet of snow.

 

I removed the pilot screws shot the openings with Gumout, blew them out with compressed air, I could hear and feel the air blowing through the ports. Re assembled, big improvement but not perfect. It will idle down to 2000 rpm with out choke, maybe only to 3500 before. Still hesitates on accelleration but markedly better. I will diddle with it more later today or tomorrow.

Thanks SM Cpt 80's

The weather is super nice today so taking a break to ride the KLR>

Wavey Davey

 

Today it is running at the correct idle with no choke 1300 rpm ish. It still bogs down when throttle applied without choke. Smoking I still concur is likely LiquiMoly doing its thing. I will look for a compression gauge online today to measure that. I removed the pilot screws shot gumout through them and blew them out with air. I tired to get gumout to flow over through the progression holes. Don't think I was successful? Let me know what you think. Give a listen below.

 

If evaluating on the bench, you should get a mist out of the small holes near the butterfly of whatever you are spraying in the pilot screw passages when applying compressed air.

Are you accounting for the tiny washer and oring everytime you remove the screws?

 

I did and have on the bench as well gotten mist to blow out of holes. I have had to fish out the orings each time. I am certain that they are as they should be. I put a dab of silicone grease on them to hold them on the needle along with the washer and spring. Also as you said it lubes them to keep them from binding when inserting. The bike is idling Much better and will idle now at 1300 to 1800 plus minus, when sufficiently warmed up. After studying how the carb is designed to work, it seems to my mind that there is still some gunk in the progressive or transfer ports? The engine struggles to transition from idle to Let's Go !. Even that is better now but not really what I would want to deal with while riding in stop and go traffic.

 

OK. I figured you were accounting for parts, but sometimes those little things can get overlooked, especially when slightly frustrated.

Keep on keepin' on. That thing should be able to idle easily and smoothly at 1000 and below if everything is clear and proper.

SM is skeptical of the card stock paper drag method of bench synch, but it has been pretty fucking spot on for me. Often I haven't had to adjust after hooking up mercury sticks and many times I don't even bother when I get a perfect idle that doesn't seem to be fighting, pulsing or hunting.

Perhaps an engine that isn't in ideal condition might have more varying vacuum needs that come to light when actually monitoring and adjusting it.

Good luck!

 

Paper method worked well for me also. Idles so well I didn't use sticks either.

 

by experiment ive developed an ez accurate synch method entirely new, simple tools, no equipment. checked w gauges OK method ive used for 3 years.

take a deep breath and think of john coltrane, miles davis and benny goodman

 

test throttle response by riding the bike not just revving it in the garage.

im starting to think the carbs may be properly cleaned but an inaccurate float level setting could explain your running problems. in addition, the idle mixture screws could be individually tuned for best running.

 

Hmmm. That could be. Is there an after market float level gauge that works? Or a home built that works. I am seeing that he OEM honda gauge is $76 . Thats a lot of Social Security out for me!

 

its ez but be accurate measuring and cutting it. must be measured with the carb held at the exactly proper angle.

 

Thanks for the picture., I did find a gauge (generic on Amazon for 20 bucks. ) I didn't know how / where to measure until I saw your picture. Service Manual wasn't to precise with their image. I am collecting more data today, it is smoothing out some. It is currently ilding down to about 1000 with the Choke 50% or less. It is hunting very little when cold but gets worse as it warms up. Example: Cold, no hunting with choke 100%. Warming idle 1000 hunt to 3.2k choke 60 %. Temp Mid range and until fan comes on hunts from 800rpm t0 2.5K plus minus choke at 45%. It also starts to smoke about this time, which could(hopefully) be the fuel system cleaner I am using.

Wish you were here

Wavey

 

Lowest spot on the float to carb bowl sealing surface. Position the carbs so the float is almost "hanging" and the float valve just seats, but is not compressing the little spring loaded cushion in the valve.

Also, when the bike is running, spray some WD-40 (or similar) around the carbs and the insulators and see if the idle changes. Sure sounds like you might have an intake leak.

Good luck.

 

Good suggestion. BINGO.. Did not solve the issue completely but is better. Smoothed out some when hit 1 and 2 with WD. Put a very small amount of turn on insulator screws on all carbs. 3 and 4 were good. So it will idle down to 2000 with choke off. Maybe lower? When it cools off enough to get my hand near the idle adjuster (Is there a thingy engineered to relocate this.? Saw a flexible adjuster on a 750) I will back the idle out a turn and try again.

So I don't think the issue is solved but I could keep the bike running at a stop light now, where as I would have both hands full trying to do that before this last experience!

Thanks Capt!

 

Well this interesting... I can see that when spraying the WD at carbs 1 and 2 that the material is getting sucked into the carb. I was able to fix 1 but 2 the clamps appear to be bottomed out and I am un-able to get the current clamps any tighter. Is there a replacement clamp screw type the correct diameter and width of band that will be an effective replacement. I am searching ebay and other parts houses. I have found most screw clamps in my experience to be very cheesy! Appreciate the input!

WD