Changing clutch plates VF1000R

Discussion in 'Mechanics Garage' started by donald branscom, Sep 24, 2010.

  1. donald branscom

    donald branscom New Member

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    Started to change my clutch plates.
    First photo is the case bolts removed.
    [​IMG]
    Clutch cover removed. Came off without removing the exhaust !! Yes!!
    The gasket is stiil good too!! I hate getting parts for this HONDA.
    [​IMG]
    OK... snap ring removed no problem.
    But the nut is a @$*@#^$%&&& "N special nut that needs a special tool!
    Dammit . There is no locking tab and a regular nut could have been used.
    [​IMG]

    This is the CRAP I hate.
    HONDA has caused me to have to make a tool or find a tool. The job COULD HAVE BEEN A SIMPLE JOB! Hear that HONDA!!
    I am cussing now.

    Any clues about where to get such a wrench???

    Just think of the surprises that await the owner of a new HONDA 1200!!
    Hope you are wealthy.

    Well no one had the tool and the dealer...well forget about it.

    So I made my own tool.
    I used a piece of 1.5 inch steel tubing .125 thickness.
    Hack saw the slots and then scored the parts to be removed with the hack saw and then bend (inwards) and break off the unwanted portions.
    A little filing and sanding and weld on a nice long handle.
    About 30 minutes of work.
    [​IMG]
    [​IMG]
    I also made a tool similar to this for holding the transmission sprocket when changing the sprocket.
    I do not need it anymore so if you want to make it easy on yourself ask me about it and you can have it for $20. and that includes the shipping.

    I will probably replace that 25mm clutch nut with a regular hex nut.
    It is just a metric fine thread nut.

    Tomorrow I will see if this wrench will work.
    Will report back.
     
    Last edited: Sep 24, 2010
  2. donald branscom

    donald branscom New Member

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    The wrench worked and getting the nut off was easy.
    Helps to have a tool made for the job.
    First friction disk measured out at .150 and limit is .120 which means it is still good.
    Now I will check the others and the spring also.
    All the friction discs were good.
    Spring was NO GOOD .165 and limit is .170
    None of the metal plates were warped.

    Now the queston is WILL HONDA have that spring washer????
    Honda dealership says the part is $14.00 (very reasonable)
    OK...Honda dealer says it was discontinues so I will try for a V65 Sabre 1100
    clutch spring washer @$19.00

    YES they can get it!!! I will take it.


    Can you imagine...If I did not know better I would have to scrap my whole engine for my motorcycle unless I could get that $14.00 part !

    Luckily I know that many sabre engine parts also fit the VF1000R.
     
    Last edited: Sep 25, 2010
  3. JamieDaugherty

    JamieDaugherty New Member

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    You can get that center nut tool through Honda still. Luckily I bought one many moons ago.

    Don't get your hopes up too soon - I don't think that Sabre diaphragm spring will work. I'd just put the original back in because it doesn't sound like it's out of spec that bad. My tolerance for such things goes way up in situations where parts are NLA like that.
     
  4. donald branscom

    donald branscom New Member

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    The HONDA dealership told me that the spring IS interchangeable.
    The spring height that I have is .165 and the minimum serviceable limit is .170
    If the new friction disks I have ordered are thicker than .150 then with the tolerance stack up factor of 9 plates, then the spring will be strong enough.
    I wanted to replace the friction plates just because they may have gotten hot and they are more than 20 years old.
    The problem is the clutch was slipping.
    All of the friction plates and the steel plates are full thickness.
    My only thought is that if the spring from the V65 Sabre does not interchange(meaning HONDA dealer is wrong),
    then my only option would be to add a shim or something.

    In high gear if I accelerated the clutch would slip. Has to be fixed.
    Hopefully the HONDA dealer did look up the interchangeability it their
    interchange book and did not just lie to me.
     
  5. tinkerinWstuff

    tinkerinWstuff Administrator Staff Member

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    I have doubts about that working. I wonder if it would be similar to suspension systems. Adding a shim to change the pre-load of the spring would do little to affect the deteriorated spring "rate".
     
  6. JamieDaugherty

    JamieDaugherty New Member

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    That sounds like old clutch plates to me. I've been following your project and it appears as though the engine was sitting for some amount of time, possibly years. I've had known-good clutches slip in top gear after sitting like that. Just run it a little and they will come back to life. It sounds weird but it works.

    I've worked on making a performance upgrade to that disc spring for the VF1000 clutches in the past. Based on the analyses I've done I can tell you that .005" won't effect anything. Even so, it will be interesting to see if the Sabre spring works.
     
  7. donald branscom

    donald branscom New Member

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    YES...It could help other forum members that own the same engine.
    I will report back on Wednesday.
    If the clutch friction discs are any amount over .150 then it will help.
    It won't take much.

    I think you are right about those clutch plates too.
    They look old .
     
    Last edited: Sep 30, 2010
  8. donald branscom

    donald branscom New Member

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    The parts come on Wednesday so we will see what gives.
     
  9. donald branscom

    donald branscom New Member

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    No.... it is not a progressive spring.
    No dampening either.
     
  10. donald branscom

    donald branscom New Member

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    Today the VF 1000R clutch friction plates arrived.
    I measured them and new they are .151 and change.
    The old ones were .150 (not much wear-almost none)
    So that means 9 friction discs @ +.001 is at least .009 more and that makes up for the old spring being .005 under minimum.
    Tomorrow I will pick up the new VF1100 spring. It arrived today at the dealership.
    So we will see if that HONDA interchange manual is correct.
    A serviceable spring is supposed to be .170 or more and I do not know what a new measures.
    We will find out.
    Stay tuned.
    [​IMG]
     
  11. tinkerinWstuff

    tinkerinWstuff Administrator Staff Member

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    it doesn't work that way. The spring being compressed below the minimum is an indication that it has lost its "rate" or the force it takes to compress or resist compression. So the amount of force the spring is exerting on your disks is less than it's supposed to be. Shimming the spring has nothing to do with the amount of force it's able to exert. Go to the hardware store and play in their spring bin. Compress a spring with your fingers. It doesn't get harder to compress the further you go.
     
  12. donald branscom

    donald branscom New Member

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    This is not a coil spring
    It looks like this.
    [​IMG]
     
  13. tinkerinWstuff

    tinkerinWstuff Administrator Staff Member

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    Same difference. Page 327 of Machinery Handbook version 26. Belleville washers

    These washer type springs can sustain relatively large loads with small deflections, and the loads and deflections can be increased by stacking the springs as shown in Fig25.
     
  14. donald branscom

    donald branscom New Member

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    Some marine transmissions have 3 or 4 of these washers.
    Thanks for the reference. I have that Machinery's Handbook.
    Belleville washers thanks.
     
  15. donald branscom

    donald branscom New Member

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    Picked up the washer/spring today.
    They are the same. They ARE interchangeable.
    Use the V65 1100 engine clutch part.
    The new washer height is .175 NEW
    The minimum is .170 Serviceable limit.
    My old washer is .165

    [​IMG]
    After putting the spring washer on cupped side facing inwards- meaning the bulging side facing out , put on the dished lock washer which has the words "OUTSIDE" printed on it. Then install the nut. Make sure the splines for the hub of the spring washer are started on the spline.
    Then tighten the nut to 65-80 Ft. lbs
    And finally put on the inner cover with bearing and snap ring.
    Now the side case can be installed.
     
    Last edited: Sep 30, 2010
  16. tinkerinWstuff

    tinkerinWstuff Administrator Staff Member

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    Most I've ever paid for a book. Probably $80 bucks some 15years ago or so. Priceless information that should be standard issue to anyone with a brain.

    Awesome! You're going to be clutching wheelies on that cruiser
     
  17. donald branscom

    donald branscom New Member

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    Buttoned it up and took it for a ride.
    No dragging or locking up.
    I think it was a smooth start because the package suggested that the plates be soaked in oil for about 4 hours.
    Well guess what I actually followed the instructions!
    Old dogs CAN learn new tricks.
    The clutch worked absolutely perfect.
    No slipping.
    Power? ...Jeeeeezzzzzzzz thats what I'm talk'n about!!
    [​IMG]
    The bike.
     
    Last edited: Oct 3, 2010
  18. donald branscom

    donald branscom New Member

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    BTW do you know what edition of Machiery's Handbook you have.(What number)?
     
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