Clutch plate install question

Going to install new Honda OEM clutch friction and plates on my 2006 and have 2 questions.
1. The clutch plates (metal, 7 of them) have a textured side and a smoother side. On their outer edge they also have a sharp edge and a dull edge. Which side should the plates have facing the engine when you install them?
2. The crankcase cover has 14 bolts, what is their torque value?

 

The metal plates go into the engine with the smooth side sharp side towards you. As far as torque values for a small 8mm bolt holding on the clutch cover, I use a t-handle and trust my feel better than a tool for this type of stuff and gradually go around the cover. You know if your doing the entire kit, you should soak the friction plates in motor oil over night before the install, also there is a different friction plate that goes in first. Just keep track of the way you take them oot of the engine, and just reverse it when you re-install. I like getting new springs too, oem work for me, but sometimes doodes get heavy duty ones, or you can shim them if your a cheapo. Good luck, its a easy job btw.

 

Thanks for the reply. I'm going all out with new friction, plates and springs. Strange how the shop manual does not mention the bolt's torque values or plate orientation. Anyone else want to chime in?

 

I would not get hung up on that, what kind of manual do you have? I have one for my generation bike but don't have the full one that covers the Magna for those years. I am sure that I coud find the correct torque spec if I needed to though. Don't worry about it though, you just have to use a small enough ratchet/socket combo and just go around the clutch cover tightening those bolts in a criss-cross pattern until they are tight. The small tool will avoid you snapping anything off, which incidently I have done with torque wrenches in situations like this. Experience makes you wiser and learning from others helps too.

Hope you got a new gasket for that clutch cover too, use a dab of yamabond/hondabond on the top were the pulse generator block goes into the clutch cover, and you should be good to go.

 

From what I've gathered poking around the net the cover bolts are 9 lbs. My bigger concern was the metal clutch plates. So to be clear, the sharp edged side faces towards the outside of the basket?

 

Yes, the sharp edge faces you. Think of it as the smooth part goes into the engine side, (it makes sense as it eases "insertion") right?

Far as those bolts you mentioned, I busted one of those in the clutch basket using a torque wrench years ago, I remember the bike I was working on at the time too. Some stuff you don't forget, I have a shelf of shame with busted parts and some parts that committed mechanical suicide too. I run those bolts down in a cross pattern until they are snugged all the way down. They have a spring associated with them so you wana be clear headed and work slowly. Get them all down by criss crossing and you will be okey-doh-kee.

 

i'll chime in on those plates--i take a file and deburr those sharp edges off of all my clutch plates whenever i get one open. It is an artifact of cheap manufacturing and using a punch press to cut those plates--the least they could have done would be throw em in a tumbler and clean up the edges. On some bikes those edges will catch in the basket and cut grooves and throw aluminum chips into your oil. When deburred the clutch action is noticeably smoother and you don't see as much chit and dirt in the engine oil.

 

Stuff that comes oot of those tumblers looks totally killer. Do you de-bur engine cases? I have gotten some nice paper style cuts from some sharp edges.

The old metal plates used to have stipples stamped into them, when you think aboot it, it makes sense as those tiny holes would hold oil. Flash forward to manufacturing of the 21st century and they have nixxed the holes in favour of just plain old metal plates. I don't know if it makes a difference or not, and I am not complaining as I am thankful that I can get oem replacement parts still for a 20+ year old bike.

 

Hell yeah, those cases are sharp as a razor blade and i've gotten those cuts also. i break the edge on those too, and look to deburr anything, anywhere at anytime, with an edge or burr that might harm man or machine.

i'm usually packing a tool, and when in doubt will whip it out.

 

TOOL :rockband:

Sounds like the dirty South. ound:

He who dies with the most tools, WINs ; )

Got a really nice cut on a blob of weld that was left on a frame from the factory, all of a sudden I was bleeding like a pig and did'nt know what the F happened until the next day when I was feeling around again. Mass produced farkers, thats what we got though. :thumbsup:

 

What rider said....torque wrench for head bolts, all the rest do by feel. No need to be a beast on those cover bolts, snug works :wink:
What with all this tool talk....think I'll ride home for lunch and show my GF my tool...

 

That's the spirit, you go show it to her--she can't scream when her mouth is full.

 

Just finished installing new friction, plates and springs. Was a breeze with a nice CDI dial torque wrench I picked up. Thanks to all who helped out with needed info to do the job. Aside from saving some money from the dealership I have the peace of mind that the job was done right. Safe riding and Thanks again!