Converting the 6th Gen from a SPORT-Tourer to a Sport-TOURER

Discussion in '6th Generation 2002-2013' started by stewartj239, Oct 2, 2011.

  1. stewartj239

    stewartj239 Member

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    So I just ordered the last item needed for the conversion. I did go with the Sargent seat and ordered it with the Shasta White welt (D-055). I could have saved some money by going with the standard black, red or silver, but I really wanted the white to match the white lines of the middle section on the '07.

    If anyone is looking for help in matching the Sargent welts with the '07 RWB, then check out this thread posted by 1FireGal. It was a huge help for me and will help anyone with seeing how the red, white, blue and silver welts match up.

    http://vfrworld.com/forums/gear-accessories/36849-sargent-welt-color-swatch-pics.html
     
  2. Guj

    Guj New Member

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    I'm curious to see the before and after pictures (once you get them, and put them on). Keep us posted!
     
  3. stewartj239

    stewartj239 Member

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    I certainly will Guj. I've ordered, but am still waiting to the receive the PCV, windscreen and seat. The seat has a 2-3 week lead time. I just got the heli-bars the other day. I went with the black and I'm thinking that I'm going to like they way they look.
     
  4. stewartj239

    stewartj239 Member

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    So I'm finally just starting to get things installed and I wanted to post a few pictures of some of the items.

    Sargent Seat - Like I said, I went with the Shasta White and it looks fantastic on the bike. It is a near perfect color match.

    Heli Bars - I went with the black instead of the silver. I'm hoping that the contrast ends up looking good. We'll see.

    Liners - These are the BESTEM liners. They seem to be pretty durable and I like the VFR800 embroidery.

    PCV - Yes, it did come with the O2 eliminators!

    Sargent.JPG HeliBars.JPG Liner.JPG PCV.JPG
     
  5. Guj

    Guj New Member

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    Nice! Looks like you got some quality stuff.

    When you mount the PCV post some pictures, I'm curious where that fits.
     
  6. suse

    suse New Member

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    So, did you find a good deal on the side-cases? And where did you order them? I'm looking for a set for my Arrest-Me Red VFR. After owning my ST1100 for about a decade I've been very accustomed to having some place to stow my misc. stuff. It is handy to have a spot to stick your helmet. I also carry basic stuff that is good to have secured to my bike like, heated gear, rain gear, gloves, baseball cap, first-aid kit, bike cover and the such.
     
  7. stewartj239

    stewartj239 Member

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    I got them through Mason City Honda. I paid $873 and it was free shipping. It's the best price I have found. Here's the link to the '07 blue cases.

    Mason CIty, Iowa, Honda. Power Equipment, ATV, Motorcycle, Scooter, Dealer, Used, Parts, Service, FInancing
     
  8. stewartj239

    stewartj239 Member

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    Here you go Guj. I finally got around to installing it today. I downloaded the stock map from the PC website and after hooking it up to the computer, I realized that the stock map was already pre-loaded. As you can see, the PCV sits under the seat on the right side of the bike. The way I ran the cable is a little different than what they have in their directions. If you follow the PCV cable, you'll see that I ran it under the rear brake fluid reservoir. You just need an 8mm socket to remove the bracket and you can run the cable under it. The ground cable then runs over to the battery from there. Note that the black box with the switches and red cable is a SpeedoHealer which I installed 5 years ago when the bike had 0 miles on it.
    CableRouting.jpg

    The next step is to locate and unplug the FI harness on the right side of the bike. You need to raise the gas tank to get at it (1st Picture). The PCV cable runs up the right side of the bike and plugs into the FI harness (2nd Picture). After that, you just need to tuck things in as good as you can (3rd Picture). Notice that I zip tied the PCV cable to the fuel line to keep it away from the cylinder head.

    FI-1.jpg FI-2.jpg FI-3.jpg

    The last step is to install the O2 eliminators. They are located on the left, lower side of the engine, just under the coolant bottle. Once you locate them, just unplug them (1st Picture). You then plug in the two eliminators that came with the PCV (2nd Picture). The plugs that run to the sensors are no longer needed. I just wrapped them in plastic and tucked them away as best as I could (3rd Picture).

    O2-1.jpg O2-2.jpg O2-3.jpg

    Overall, the installation is a piece of cake and the directions are very good. I can't wait to get the bike out in the spring and see how much better it runs. The stock FI choppiness is just horrible at slower speeds.
     
  9. Guj

    Guj New Member

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    Nice! Thanks for the write up.

    Sounds like a good afternoon project for the near future.

    I pick up a VTR fan, so I might wait to do the fan swap till I order the PCV & AutoTune (since some of the work is under the left fairing).
     
  10. tinkerinWstuff

    tinkerinWstuff Administrator Staff Member

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    I didn't read every word of all the posts so maybe I missed something....

    did you look at any local custom seat makers? Usually the pricing is competitive and you get exactly what you want instead of another "one size fits all" seat.

    Hand Crafted Sport Tourer Seats | Steve Gowing
     
  11. Alaskan

    Alaskan Member

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    Thanks very much for the pics and the write-up of the installation. I really like that kind of post, and yours was informative.

    You will really enjoy the improved throttle response at low RPMs in first gear. It makes parking lots SOOO much better. I got a map from an experienced dynotuner and it's great. My tuner stressed that he had done several 6th Gens and had had good success smoothing out the VTEC transition. He also said that typical HP is 100 to 105. Good luck!

    Looks great, BTW.
     
  12. thorrinn123

    thorrinn123 New Member

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    just curious why you went with the sargent seat when you said that if the cowl didn't fit that would be a deal breaker for you?
     
  13. stewartj239

    stewartj239 Member

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    I guess it could have been an option, but I was so caught up in the Corbin vs. Sargent decision that the thought never even entered my mind.
     
  14. stewartj239

    stewartj239 Member

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    If I got a little extra HP, then that would be nice, but I'm I really want is the FI to be straightened out. I can't believe that I've lived with it for the last 5 years.
     
  15. stewartj239

    stewartj239 Member

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    The rear seat cowl does fit on the Sargent seat. That was a huge selling point.
     
  16. Alaskan

    Alaskan Member

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    My cowl fits fine with my Sargent. Not sure why anyone might say it doesn't.
     
  17. Alaskan

    Alaskan Member

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    Yes, the smoothness is why I mapped the bike. My previous bike was not fuel injected, so I had no idea why I couldn't control it smoothly at low RPMs in 1st gear. The map solved that issue for me . . .
     
    Last edited: Feb 14, 2012
  18. ReefDiver

    ReefDiver New Member

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    After the first 1000 miles I was so sick of the low rpm surging that I almost put a for sale sign on my bike. But after unplugging the pair valve & unplugging the vaccum line on the air box lid ALL surging has disappeard. It's a whole new bike, and I love it all over again.
    Give it a try,
    Sorry for the hijacking.
     
  19. stewartj239

    stewartj239 Member

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    I've now got the Heli-Bars installed. It was completely uneventful and much easier to perform than I had anticipated. I was expecting it to be much more difficult after reading posts about having to cut the master cylinder tabs and pulling the dampers.

    These two pictures show the forward tabs already removed on both sides. I used the #426 cut-off wheel for the Dremel which is recommended in the installation directions. In order to get a clean, straight cut, I rotated the levers as far upward as they would go. This gave the best angle for cutting them off. Even taking my time, it took no more than a couple of minutes per side to get them removed.

    Tab - Front Brake.jpg Tab - Clutch.jpg

    The next picture shows a trick that I used for removing the dampers. The directions say to pull and twist to get them out, but I've done that in the past and figured it would be easier to just screw the bar ends back in and using an adjustable wrench, punch the dampers out with a hammer. This worked great and the dampers came straight out.

    Damper Removal.jpg

    The last two pictures show the final result. As you can see, I went with the black heli-bars instead of the silver and I think it looks great. I really like the contrast between the triple clamp, bars and master cylinders. So taking your time, this doesn't take more than a couple of hours. It's an extremely simple installation.


    Complete - Right.jpg Complete - Both.jpg
     
  20. stewartj239

    stewartj239 Member

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    I’ve just completed installing the rack system for the OEM saddlebags. Once again, this was a very easy installation. The directions that came with it were adequate to get the job done. The key is to not tighten anything down until you’ve got everything in place.

    The hardest part of the whole thing was locating the 12mm drill bit for widening the holes on the passenger pegs and rear fender. I went to Sears as well as Home Depot and was amazed that neither place sold metric drill bits. What am I missing? I ended up going with a ½” drill bit which equates to 12.7mm. This ended up not being an issue.

    On a side note, you can see the VIN sticker on the rear fender that originally came with the bike. When I picked this bike up in March of 2007, the first thing I did was remove the stock fender and replace it with a fender eliminator. Luckily I had the foresight to hold on to the stock fender.

    Rack-Left.jpg Rack-Rear.jpg Rack-Right.jpg
     
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