Dielectric grease question

True, if you've got a computer style connector or something with multiple pins next to each other and no shielding you wouldn't use it. However, most of the connectors on the bike will have the crimp on terminals isolated inside their own little plastic tubes, at least on one end of the connector. If you use it sparingly it shouldn't spill out the sides. I applied it to the DC connector side of the R/R 20K miles ago. Nothing's gone up in smoke yet.

And for those of us with much older bikes, the ox-gard will actually IMPROVE the connection between older spade terminals. Since, there's a fine metallic grit in it when you push the connector back together it will help clean off the surfaces a bit. As well as provide more surface area for conductivity overall.

 

Dilectric grease on every connector on every bike I touch and I mean on the spades.
Since 1985 on my 81 CB750 and no electrical problems, no burning, no corrosion, and the world has yet to end.
I do clean and tighten every female connector.

 

The reason we're having this conversation is Honda under-engineered many connectors. They are insufficient for the Current/Environment.


Note how these Stator Connectors heat up at the Crimp,,.. the Spade is fine.
These connectors, and others (Starter/Solenoid/Headlight) should handle more current and be shielded from the wet/dirty environment.
I refuse to ride in the rain (unless I'm trapped on a tour) or store a bike outside, it destroys the bike .

I have "reconditioned" all the high current connectors on my "old" bikes.


Connectors are washed in Solvent, CLR, Wire Brush, brushed all wiring with Armoural, Soldered and then Spritz'd with WD40.
Dielectric grease can be used as a thin film. WD40 doesn't last as long but can be reapplied each year during Spring Checkup.
O2 is the killer, it Corrodes Metal. Grease/Vaseline/WD40,,.. keeps the air and conductive dirt/salt off the metal.
Crimping is a Mechanical Connection, Soldering guarantees a good (better) electrical connection.
Corrosion creeps in and reduces the Cross-Sectional Metal Contact Area.
I don't want to Cut/Solder the connectors, I want to keep parts easily interchangeable between bikes.
The Armoural keeps the Vinyl wire insulator from drying out/cracking (more modern wiring uses Teflon).
All heavy wiring connectors on my bikes have been "Reconditioned".
Small Signal Wires are fine. If they cause trouble, a Re-seating (disconnect/reconnect) freshens up the metal for another decade.

On these old bikes the Headlight went through a Break Switch on the Starter Button.
I changed the bulb from 65/55 watt to a 100/55,,.. and the extra current on High Beam melted the plastic at the Starter Switch.
I rewired the Headlight Circuit to go through a Relay now.

I recommend "reconditioning" all High Current connectors, check them yearly.
Eventually the WD40 attracts dirt/drys out. Wash connector, reSpritz, good to go.

 

+1 for me as well