Discussion in '8th Generation 2014-Present' started by baker5, Oct 19, 2015.
i'd be leary using one on an aluminum filter head.
I agree. My next step would have been to use my giant torque wrench if I needed more leverage.
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Would a torque hammer and screw driver be useful in this situation ?
Did my first oil change today. Like everyone else, my filter was very tight. I was able to get it off with an overgrown set of channel locks without a lot of trouble. Question: When I refilled the bike it took 3 1/2 quarts to bring it to the correct level in the site glass. I know the manual calls for 3.3 liters. Anyone else run into this?
What is 31/2 quarts in metric?
Just done my own check it's 3.31 litres.
Oh, now I feel better! Thanks Fink!
I was figuring that one wrong.
Would be easier if you guys used the same measurements as everyone else. layful:
After several oil changes I've settled on 3 quart containers plus 6 ounces. That's the total after filling, running the engine and topping up. Maybe the quart containers from Honda have a little more than a quart.
I asked my neighbors. We ARE using the same measures. The only problem I have is avoiding those pesky "Imperial" gradations on my beakers.
I guess it's my time to vent. Doing my oil change today! Lots of fun! First, I like the fact that you only need to remove the lower fairing piece to access it, but damn once the fairing is off the fun begins. The filter was tight so I was really struggling with that. The problem is that it's really tight between the filter and the fan. Then, once the filter was off, squeezing it between the header and all other stuff requires lots of wiggling. There is also a little house that needs to be bent down to take the filter out.
I like the idea of prefilling the new filter with oil, but I see it being a messy procedure once I will try to wiggle the new filter up there.
I never pre-fill my oil filter ... as long as you don't leave a filter off for too long, you're fine.
There's enough oil in the heads and pump that it won't lose prime if you've run your engine to operating temperature before doing the oil change provided you don't let the bike sit for an hour draining.
I will be doing mine over the next few weeks, once I have the Cbr back together (was doing oil change, new exhaust as well as the usual things you do when buying a second hand bike). will post up how I get on.
did my first oil change at dealership they used the 10-30 oil HP4S PRO HONDA,they used three quarts and may be 2 Fl OZ with new filter and cost me around $128.
Did they at least supply ky and give you a cup of tea afterwards?
Did you at least get a kiss and reach around?
Wow. Did they use sand with that anal lube??
" Its a Good Thing "
There should be no need to pre-fill a Oil Filter before Install.
All these Oil Filters have a Pressure Valve built into the Input side.
No Oil gets into the Filter on Start-Up, until Pressure builds in the motor First.
On my 1000cc motors the spec is 12psi.
Some filters valves are as low as 6psi, some at 18psi.
If you study the Oil Flow Schematic, you'll see the oil comes out of the pump and goes into the Gear Shafts and Top End first.
They get oil right away.
Only after pressure builds (past 12psi) does it get into the Filter. A good scenario.
Then the filter fills up, and your Oil Level will drop.
It can get a little more complicated than that, with the Oil Cooler in there too.
Or in motors with Oil Pressure activated Variable Valve Timing.
After a short start/run, check Oil Level, add a little more.
My Oil Pressure Switch is set around 12psi also.
On my Ford E350 6.0 Diesel-Turdbo, the Filter Canister points down and is a substantial size.
So I prefill that Filter Canister.
Damn thing takes 12 liters on a oil change!
I have to buy oil by the 5gal pail.
So is pre-filling an oil filter one of those "sounds good/makes sense" ideas that are not actually backed up by any engineering-based best practices?
I will take your word for it since trying to wiggle a filter full of oil and placing it horizontally while trying to tighten it with two fingers is like some of acrobatics that I have not mastered yet :smile-new:
Sure, put some in, any amount helps that first start/fill.
Ideally the Input Valve/Plastic Flap should hold most of it in.
So it might spill if you put in more than 1/2 and turn it sideways.
1/2 of that cute little filter is not much oil.
Hey Jeff, wouldn't be ideal to let the oil drain for as long as possible after being at running temp to get as much of the old oil out? And If so, would you not want to load the filter up as much as you can to get a cleaner change and save some wear on key components? The reason I ask is because if you do not change your car oil or your bike oil yourself the service companies or dealers are rushing your bike out the door and I think that you are getting a "diluted" oil change and not a proper one. I am concerned that when I had my first change by the dealer and yes got screwed since I did not have my center stand installed yet the I got a "Grey" change of oil. I bought Honda full synthetic oil online and gave that to them to change. They state 6,000 mile for the next one. Should I do another change myself and eat the cost at 2,500 mile knowing that it was a 15 min change and being "Grey" with a breakin still floating around the engine. Let me know or anyone else. Thanks. Mike D.
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