First Oil Change

Agree don't see the point in prefilling an oil filter unless its stated in the manual. Just likely to make more mess.

 

Hey Mike ... that little bit of oil left in the bottom of the oil pan is negligible. There's far more left in the heads ... you'll never get it all out.

Pre-loading the filter / filter element really isn't achieving much to be honest. As VF1000Fe noted, these filters have a pressure valve built in that forces the engine to build oil pressure first before pumping it into the filter. Does it hurt to pre-load? No. But it's also not necessary and can create extra mess that could have been avoided. It's extremely rare for an engine to lose 'prime' during an oil change and it usually only happens if you leave the filter and oil drain plug out of the bike for an extended period - which is totally unnecessary for an oil change. My oil changes take me about 20-30 minutes to complete at the most, that includes removing the side fairings and reinstalling them.

My oil is never 'grey' after a change, it's clear / clean looking even after running the bike immediately after the oil change. If it's grey, I'd be concerned about what they really did for you - it should NOT be grey even after the first oil change. I would certainly have a discussion with that dealer.

If it's still grey and you want to do it yourself and you don't trust the dealer you took it to originally to do it right, I would buy some cheap dino oil and a cheap filter, change the oil and run it for 500 km's then change it again with a premium filter and oil.

 

Yes!,,.. my 4 Hollow Cams have Oil in them, as do the 2 Gear Shafts and the Crankshaft, and the Oil Pump,,..
Its not gonna come out, even if you leave it drip for a week.
I'll guess you still have 5% Old Oil in there, but its not bad oil.

I had a discussion at a Service Counter once with a fellow talking about paying big $$$ for the Long Life Synthetic.
He figured the economy of longer oil changes make up for the high cost.
I believe them when they say their oil molecules last for 15,000km
But what about the Carbon, Moisture, Fine Metals, Grit the the "Oil Filter" doesn't get?
He wasn't getting it, so I figured out a good test.
I took One Liter of the Synthetic, and said we would put this in his car,
but first I would reach into my pocket and pull out a bunch of Dirt and put it in the oil, then into his car.
He got a little excited and said No Way!
But those Molecules are Perfect!, Good for 15,000km!
"Ya, but now its Dirty!"
BINGO, he got it.

I use Regular Oil, but change it a lot, always got good molecules and its clean.
My buddy uses the Shell Rotella Synthetic AND changes it regularly, Ideal, if you got deep pockets.
He buys the 5gal pail.
His motors last forever.

I think the synthetic route is better.
But I go thru a Lot of Oil, so I have to Economize.

I do this every time I get my hands on a used bike.
A one gas tank ride oil flush, no matter what.
Its an added cost of a "Extra Change", but worth it.

I did a Tour in the Desert once and put in straight SAE40.
I ended up doing a Top End rebuild after (cams were sent in for Hardening/Regrind).
The inside of the motor had a fine charcoal colored film on everything.
Hadn't seen that before in my other "clean" motors.
The Straight Weight Oils don't have as much Additives in them.
Modern Mutli-Weight Oils are wonderful.
AntiFoaming Agents (oil really takes a beating, don't want air mixed in with it).
Detergent additives keep the contaminants suspended in the oil, comes out with a Oil Drain.
Its multi-weight for me from now on.

After a motor rebuild I'll "run" the engine off the Starter Motor, or a Big Drill on the Crankshaft Magnet Bolt (no spark plugs).
Only after oil has been primed thru it, will I Hot Start it.

 

Yup, I subscribe to the same oil change frequency with the synthetic oil ... I use it as extra protection, not a way to extend my mileage between changes. I've recently switched to the Rotella T6 from Advance Ultra 4T ... it's been every bit as good and less expensive, yet still getting a full synthetic.

All synthetic does is suspend and trap contaminants better than regular oil, and doesn't break down as quick ... as you noted, oil still becomes saturated with contaminants.

 

And synthetic has increased slickness. I remember when the clean up guys at the track had their first synthetic clean up. They were pissed at how slick it was and how much more effort it took to clean up.

 

I've read both 300 and 600 miles for the first oil change - is it definitely 300 miles and a subsequent at 600?

Thanks!

 

Page 50 of manual says first oil change at 600 miles


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Of course not. I use motorcycle oil, wet clutch compatible oil. This question is older than dirt with the same correct answer.

 

I'm a firm believer in changing the first time way before the manual says. Probably before the first 50 miles most of the mating surfaces of the rings, cylinders and transmission gears slough off more metal than they ever will. The transmission will take thousands of miles to fully break in. But that first change is very important. I have seen oil filters cut open with only 25 miles on a brand-new bike. The metal in them looks like Etch-a-Sketch,fine metal particles. I don't think waiting 600 miles is going to be bad for the bike but if you want to best on a brand-new bike I would change it very soon.

 

First of all, I am not a mechanic, engineer or super qualified on motorcycle maintenance. So what I have to say may not mean much.

I have never used a K&N oil filter and after hearing and reading everything here and elsewhere, I simply cannot understand why anyone would take such a chance. I buy Bosch fllters by the half dozen from Wallyworld. I have confidence in Bosch. I use the same filters on my bike, my wife's Civic and my son's older Civic. I only need one filter and can change oil at my leisure without having to go out and buying a filter.

I use Rotella T6 and have for a number of years now. I use the same oil in my bike, the two civics, and my Duramax diesel truck. I only need on oil in my shop.

Like Jeff and other say, I do not prefill the filters. There is enough residuals in the engine to cover the time it takes the oil to go through the filter. Now, reading through this thread, I now understand the oil services the engine before it goes through the filter anyways so my perspective on that is moot anyways.

I warm up my engine before an oil change only to loosen the oil so that it drains more quickly. I suspect it also allows more oil to drain, I don't get the engine hot, just warm enough that the oil is loose. I agree, you never get all the oil and therefore not all the contaminants out. You never will. If you are talking about leave something like 20% or more behind, I would be concerned but hell. You are lucky if 1% is left behind. The new oil and new filter will deal with what is left behind.

I change oil every 10,000 KM. On the 10,000 too. It is easy to remember. Manual says 12,000 but hat the hell, I waste 2,000km per oil change. It is putting me in the poor house. But don't rely on my advice for giving you longevity on your engine. Mine has 202,000 km+, all mine. So I don't really know if what I am doing is detrimental to the longevity of the engine.

 

The way you are going with your maintenance Randy, I think you will struggle to get 350,000 km out of that engine.

 

Do you mean me personally or does that include the beneficiaries of my will?

 

Any of the above.

 

I've always just done what the owner's manual says then ride the way I want, which is very hard. With between 8 and 9,000 miles on it now, it uses zero oil and runs perfect. I think all this break in mileage stuff is over-rated. But then, I'm not an amateur or professional engine lubrication engineer. I can read and follow an owner's manual though....

I think a VFR engine is pretty hard to fuck up and will take an incredible amount of hard use. At least that's my experience.

 

So no one uses Purolator Pure One PL14610 and PL14612 anymore?

 

I do. In my Nissan.

 

IMO all these dudes who ride hard should have tank protectors.

 

The zipper on my jacket always scratches my tank as I shift my body to hang a leg off on the inside!

 

Yeah riding with an erection could damage the tank.

 

I have same problem, except I have a hard time staying away from food!